Duncan

It's very straightforward to check. Just take the springs off each corner, put the shocks/struts back in. On the hoist, put the rear on a jack and move it through the full range up and down, just needs a mm or 2 for tyre deflection. At the front same deal except turn from lock to lock at say 5 points in the travel as well (top bottom middle and the in betweens). With the GTR, the first place it hit was on the front bar at mid travel with wheels turned, because the caster pulls the wheel forward towards the bar compared to factory. Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already, the other place is full lock, full compression hitting the inner guards

Re the fuses, when I moved to a PDM I removed all except 2 fuses from the car - the only 2 remaining are one for the Rallysafe so it has direct electrical connection to the battery, and the other is the power supply to turn on the PDM itself. I did what you said, made a little cf panel with 2 panel mount fuse holders. I also added a simple battery voltage check where a momentary switch provides 12v to a voltage display to help any trouble shooting. Then I went and repeated that dumb mistake and mounted it well under the dash where I can't access it (which was a pain when the Rallysafe fuse popped one day. I'll be moving it to an accessible location somewhere, maybe where they ashtray was (since I can't find one for a reasonable price)

The springs seem like a reasonable start for track work, although you probably want adjustable sway bars as well. The adjustable arms themselves are no use, you need to know the alignment. Generally you want a little toe in to 0 static at the rear for stability and at the front as much caster as you can get, camber you can decide by tyre wear but around 3-4o From there, basically the more tyre grip you have, the less roll you want as the cornering forces increase. So best get the semis on (some are better than others, and new is always better than old) to see how the balance is front to rear. Also, a locked diff is NFG for track work. You want a mechanical LSD, preferably 1 or 1.5 way

Lots of choices out there these days, but if you current pump is working and you are not running out of fuel during tuning there is no benefit to changing it

Welcome Bryce, and you could either ask in this thread, or in the RB series forum for more complex questions https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/79-rb-series-r31-r32-r33-r34-1986-2002/

They look excellent. Michelin is a bit of an odd choice unless they are second hand off porsche cup or similar though?

fitment looks great, but they are super low profile tyres for track use

Please link me to 5x $10k GTRs, I will buy them now for parts

I have not been through the process under the new rules, but it looks like any car > 25 years should be possible https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/department/media/news/how-import-your-older-vehicle-25-years-or-older However, not that if they are not on the RAV you have to apply and get them approved, this may not be simple (or possible), so best get advice from someone who has been through it

Does the 4wd actually work at all? Since it is at a shop they could put it in gear on the hoist and make sure all 4 wheels turn. Potentially not being able to get pressure in the system would look the same as the switch failing because it would always be on. Increasing numbers of R32 owners have had to replace the nitrogen cannister to get pressure in the system (otherwise the relay clicks regularly as the pump keeps turning on. Since the scan tools are not nissan consult, they may or may not be able to read the attessa computer as well, so the second scan not finding anything may not mean too muc.

Well firstly, good searching. I'm not convinced there is a definitive answer (noting pipster11 quotes a translated workshop manual which is a good sign). The accepted knowledge on the forums is that in 33 and 34 platforms, even with the electronics off there is still some potential drag on the clutches inside the transfer case. That means that even if the front wheels don't turn any more, the transfer case clutches themselves may be slipping and causing damage (requires a rebuild to fix). My guess is that people who have said it works OK had worn transfer cases already and they may not have much 4wd in the first place. To be safe I take the driveshaft out if I am putting the Stagea on a 2wd dyno, it is 4 bolts and out it comes. In the 32 platform the setup is different (slower) and it is OK to electronically disconnect 4wd (remove the fuse, use a 4wd controller to turn it off etc)

In that case, leave the socket on there and bash the back of the socket (hopefully its an impact socket) Its tricky to give specific advice without knowing the exact setup (which model skyline is it?), but I guess it is something like aluminium on steel galling, so heat and shock are the answer

Did you take the nut off? OK kidding! But put it back on so it is just before level with the end of the driveshaft, then bash that (straight on) with a heavy metal hammer

A pic of that might be helpful, if the cross member is bent the car has had some sort of hit along the way and wheel alignment might be an issue

My tip is....it's bogan cruise ship, not harley, weather down here at the moment mate

Right, and in addition to that, you need an r31 speedo cable if one is not currently installed, as it will need to be the right length and have the right drive at the dash end

Welcome to the forums Matt, and well done to your son for making an excellent choice in 1st car. I am not familiar with R31 setups, but R32 used a mechanical speedo drive from the gearbox to the dash and I suspect R31 might as well. Is there another connection further back on the gearbox on the passenger side? Of course this may never have been done properly when the manual swap was done.

Well, I was going to add that I've used Unigroup for about 10 years for multiple cars, and they do uprev so can tune a Q60 (which engine BTW?) Also dvsjez has tuned a lot of cars of this forum and has a great reputation, as does JEM as Brett said.

Good switch, I reckon they look heaps better in grey than red, the red and black ones are a bit blobby while the grey shows the shape better does it do good skids?

It really depends what you want, the places Brett mentioned are probably best as in crazy highest power cars, but that might not be what you are trying to build so other places might suit better. If you just want someone who can tune your car there are other reliable shops as well as the big names.

2 things; the wiring was only just big enough for the factory pump when it was shiny and new 30 years ago, often leading to voltage drop issues after all these years, and second is a computer on the earth with reduces the current at lower rpm to try and stop too much fuel being pumped. It was probably overly complex 30 years ago, and today it is much better with a modern fuel pump to feed it full battery voltage and use you ECU to control it if you are worried about warming up the fuel by circulating it too much

So, standard throttle body and standard AFM/airbox from the engine? I've never had a good look at the cima packaging (covered in plastic covers of course), is it connected directly from factory? I know there are complex inlet runners but I assume they are post TB and therefore you have those in place. Anyway, the engine made about 280kw from factory through that system, it is unlikely to be a restriction if you stick with all stock sizing. The focus was efficiency over performance of course, but having an overly small air inlet is not efficient either

f**k me, 10k for the ABS? Will be interesting to see how the difference feels. I've been living with 3 channel, 30 yo ABS for a long time, would be very interesting to see how it feels back to back.

Your tuner is correct that the -5 turbos will not change boost pressure if you use the original waste gate actuators (0.8 bar) and do not add a boost control solenoid. However they are incorrect to imply the car will with all stock supporting systems (ECU, afm, injectors, fuel pump), because the larger turbos flow more air at the same boost, and airflow is how the ECU determines load. I think you should talk to someone else, and FWIW I think finding a pair of stock (original or rebuilt) standard turbos with the ECU you have is a good choice. A GTR with 300-400awkw will cost 000s and is great fun, but you seem to be satisfied with with standard and focussed on cost

Or 4wd