Duncan

But, this thread never got to a rally either!

Yeah sounds like good fun, it is easy too get sucked in to levels of motorsport that are expensive and competitive but not as much fun. My car is off the road since a tree pruning incident at Great Tarmac Rally a couple of years back. It is straight (enough) again and being slowly put back together now, but the reality is that a R32 GTR is kind of a dumb thing to rally these days given their value and cost/difficulty to repair. If/when rallies get going again we will probably runs something newer and cheaper/easier to repair like a 400z

It's worth noting that any tunable ECU will do what you need, but the PowerFC and Link G4 are direct plug in, while others like Haltech Elite will require custom wiring or an adapter at extra cost. Either way, the cost of tuning will be the same or more than the cost of the ECU, so you should find a tuner you trust first, and then buy the ECU they are familiar with. PowerFC is very suitable for low-mid power like you are talking about, plug in and drive off, and very quick to tune because there are less parameters than more modern ECUs. The problem with where you are right now is you are trying to work out a way forward based on what you have on your bench, rather than having a target power and buying the right parts to hit that. Any turbo more than about 10% bigger than standard requires many additional parts (and costs add up quickly). If you are looking for a pretty much standard experience without unnecessary cost, I'd be getting the HKS turbos checked and putting them back on with a standard ECU, and run standard boost. Anything other path will be 10x or more the cost.

Got it, so I would say that is normal returning to about 1500 then something is adding air for a little until it returns normally to 800. I'd disconnect the IACV and AAC wiring and see if it still happens, might be ECU sending a signal to add air, or might be a faulty air valve if it still happens

That would do it! (obviously I meant using iphones, not having kids) Did you make it to a tarmac rally before they stopped or will this be track focussed now?

lol did we just travel through time from the age of the iphone 6?

It won't be the auto ecu causing the issue, and it's not normal. I ran my manual swapped Stagea on the auto ECU for a while before I moved to PowerPC, the reason I moved was to run more boost. Like GTSBoy said, for revs to stay up (or fall slowly) there has to be some additional air in the system somehow. Even if the ECU is adding too much fuel you need 14x the air to keep the engine running. Does the same issue happen if you rev it when stationary, out of gear?

damn straight. twins were big in the 90s, and are again now. just like stranger things

Interesting they were not stock turbos in the first place. I guess you may not know much about the history of the car but it is possible the tune on the old ECU was not factory. The tags read UH 60539 431876 45 but unfortunately I have no idea what that means. Had the old turbos failed or were you just replacing them? If they failed, rebuilding them turbos with steel wheels would get you going again. The -5 you bought are about the biggest turbos you would consider outside drag racing etc but are not impossible for street use. If you go -5 you might as well buy a tunable ECU (and fuel pump, injectors and either MAP sensor or z32 air flow meters) because they will never run well on the factory computer, even with very low boost (they are larger, so they move more air than the standard ones at the same boost level).

Some old names in this thread, from 16 years ago!

Holy shit, that was a nasty accident. Hope the occupants survived

Unfortunately the seller has given you bad advice about those turbos. They are a direct physical fit (potential oil drain and oil lines issues but everything else should be OK), but they are a lot larger than standard. In addition to what BK said you also need either nismo or z32 air flow meters if the new ECU doesn't run MAP sensor. Those turbos flow enough that even at factory boost you will fall off the standard maps.

Man, if only Nissan made a "A prestige touring wagon that is functional yet comfortable"

Putting aside the turbo thing, you can also just run with the o2 sensors unplugged. Assuming the GTR is not driven in traffic all day it will not make a meaningful difference to fuel consumption (although, you might do more than your fair share to destroy the world)

sorry I just assumed GTR! I can check GTST if you have the vin but highly unlikely to be a different answer

Part numbers are 46245-05U01 46246-05U01 Amayama says they are non available and out of production Everyone just replaces the hard and soft lines with a single piece braided line

The nissan part number is xxxxx-xxxxx format, if you find that it can probably be checked. I saw you mention elsewhere it may not be interchangeable due to o2 sensors, I'm not aware of any other difference 32/33 in terms of wiring or functionality, and aftermarket plug ins like Haltech sell a single 32/33 part number which implies it will run fine. Have you tried it? It should physically plug in and run even if the o2 sensors are different

haha have fun with the pick axe. you putting a little slab under it? I think it's worth the trouble to keep it flat and dry long term

Pretty sure the fuse box was on the firewall because it looked like a nice, clean space to put it. With the dash, console etc out it is easy to forget how hard some areas of the car are to access. I reckon putting stuff where you can reach it with the interior in is a much better idea....I need to move that 1 fuse still in my car (that runs the PDM) somewhere easier to access to, now is the right time with everything out.

So like I said, it is consistent with teh ECU not having power (no fuel pump signal, no cas, no ignitor power). Can you connect to the ECU when the ignition is on through USB? There are 2 relays near the passenger a pillar (blue, or apparently sometimes green!). One is for ignition power, the other powers the ECU. Check they both have power coming in from battery, and both relays turn on (click, and provide power output) when the key is at IGN

welcome to SAU! what are you planning to do with the engine? is it currently broken some how?

I think the advice on some really hard braking to get the brakes stinky hot is good. The advice to buy new pads and rotors is bad. If getting them hot doesn't work you need to just get a mechanic to skim the discs as said above. I'm pretty confident the rotors are warped, that's why the surface rust isn't getting wiped off straight away. BTW it is perfectly normal for a brake disc to grown surface rust overnight if it gets wet, it gets wiped off as soon as you use the brakes

haha fuel pump relay always used to be in the boot, these days it is in the trunk!! the fuel computer varies the earth not the power to the pump (and, generally you would chuck it and harwire the earth, and replace the factory feed with a wire with fuse from the battery to the fuel pump relay (or a replacement) so you get a proper 13.x volts at the pump.) It would be worth checking if the signal side of the fuel pump relay is turning on. I think you have an ECU power or ECU issue.

I should say that the kit I fitted was for an R32, but had very generous line length (if anything a little too long, have to keep them out of the way). I didn't measure them compared to R32. standard lines, noting the standard lines have a fitting to bolt them to the knuckle. If you can afford the risk of the car being off the road for a week, I'd try standard lines, as long as they are not taught at full droop on the suspension, I'd just use them...

I suspect that is my long ago voice quoted there. Anyway, the point was you either use a banjo bolt end on the line (which seals with a copper washer to the calliper), or a flare nut (which seals on a removable olive inside the caliper). Ultimately I changed across to aftermarket 8 piston brakes and have done about a bazillion klm on them since. They were a R32 gtr kit that included braided lines, bolted straight on and off I went