Duncan

You should definitely see if it runs OK with the standard filters back in, at least you then know what your choice is. Tuning is straightforward but you will cost around $600-$1k for a tuning license and a modification specific tune for the car

A non-zero rev reading

Yeah interior paint is a pain. Are you just going to clean and rattle can it? I need to do the same, I have a few places paint chipped off too

Hopefully that means no more Ford Territory at motorkhanas then!

It will be fine with standard turbos, boost restrictor in or out. Just be aware the standard ceramic turbos don't last well at higher boost (especially after 30 years) and might fail, and some people have reported engine damage as result

Stagea? C34 or M35? I have to check because last time I assumed it was a WRX. In any case, not really unless you are OK with it in the cargo area, which kind of defeats the purpose of a wagon

you can check it is getting an RPM signal while cranking by looking at the tacho

Great outcome, and those clocks are by far the least reliable electronic component in the whole car. Generally they just stop working rather than blowing up your AC though! Having said that, it is definitely worth unplugging the clock to confirm that is the issue, there are a bunch of other things that power from that fuse including Radio, HICAS control, something in the AC control (as you found), Auto trans for auto cars

I don't know for R33, but is it possible the paint has just been removed or flaked off? Does the vin plate match the number stamped in the firewall above the heater hoses? And, what is your location (not on your profile)? If it was imported to Australia it should have a local vin number or plate too for cross checking to the import papers

What is your suspension setup and alignment?

Transfer case temp is definitely an issue in hard track use, eg enduros or long rally stages

Damn straight, he could have sold SAU when NS's original owners did....glad he stuck with the trouble all this time

It did help in the cima (direct injected) once it got up there in age/klm, using it a couple of times sorted an intermittent miss at idle and midrange/full throttle.

well, since you want 3x factory power, reliable for track use and money no object, you need to have a dry sump oiling system instead of the factory one. everything else you listed will have less impact on your goal than a dry sump. you didn't mention what size radiator, but you will want a nice thick one. Also you mention engine oil cooler but not what size, you will need a larger cooler than you can fit in the front wheel well. Finally, the transfer case is more likely to need a cooler than front diff which you listed, rear diff or gearbox but the best way to tell would be to run temp sensors in each for a few track days to see if you have a problem.

using a brake pedal override seems like a nightmare for left foot braking/trail braking, and burnouts for that matter

whoa, aero doors! did you count how many holes?

Well, I'd love to see some real world results from these turbos (ie, not from the manufacturer), there is a lot of doubt in these parts...

Volk Le-37s sold

That reminds me, better update my FS thread

to be fair, the straight is about 500m I agree up and down cruise are good things, probably the most often used buttons in the fuga. The problem with can buttons is you really need a pdm as well for most useful functions. still, a good toy, life would be easier in the gtr if plat pro supported can can pads, i run an old fashioned switch and button custom panel

lol, I'd be logging by the end of the driveway, every time.

Well, this is worth a read to get the facts from both sides https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/7820901/appalling-outcome-wakefield-hits-out-at-court-ruling/ Wakefield put in a DA to expand, at which point it was noted they had been breaching noise limits for years. Council came to a best compromise they could under state noise rules which Wakie didn't agree to. So Wakie took council to the Land and Environment court, won the case, but got tighter restrictions than council offered.....so basically, tactical mistake after tactical mistake from the track, they just keep digging their hole deeper. Its bad news for us, half the reason we moved to this part of the world was because the track is nearby. On the other hand, its so quiet out here we can hear noise from 10klm away so I'm not surprised there are residents around who are not happy. Bottom line, motorsport is a bad neighbour and the best thing it can do to be accepted is get quieter, fast. It's not such a big deal to have a muffled race car, and in 10 years time 90% of cars will be electric anyway....just time for them to move into the future.

And to add, yes ABS is not affected, and also you don't need to replace the dash (it will just show P or N but not the other gears of course). You didn't mention in the list above, but obviously you need a flywheel, clutch, bolts to suit and also remember to change the auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank across to a manual one, they are different sizes. Also....it is an awesome modification for a stagea

Good to see. I was just checking something around the manual conversion I did about 10 years ago in mine, and found these part numbers (noting they many are probably NLA now, but 2nd hand may be an option) Handbrake 36010-15U00 Gear Lever 32841-21U00 32841-21U10 Gear Lever snap ring 32204-V5003 Gear Lever boot 24216-V5010 Brake Pedal 46501-70T00 Clutch Pedal 46540-0V700 46540-21U00 Clutch and Master Bracket 46550-0V700 46550-21U00 Clutch Master Cylinder 30610-AA107 30610-21U91 30610-21U04 Note, you can use R34 manual centre console and shifter finisher, here are pics from mine. You can see in the last pic there is a very minor difference in finish on the console

Bit off topic in for sale but here we go R34 manual console in W34 stagea