Duncan

hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes

Given it is temporary, I bought a cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting

Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard. First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!

Next up, the extinguisher is mounted but really only temporary because I ran into clearance problems (the bracket fit fine....until I put an extinguisher on it). It picks up the seat bolt mounts but has long bolts running through 20mm spacers for now Doing it properly requires a bit of quick welding but I ran out of time, this will do for the practice day

Family events weekend but a snuck a couple of things in. NSW state champs were down at Wakefield so I got Gordon Leven's to bring some A052s down in the right size for some spare rims I had that "fit" (actually ex-Leaf Nismo.Rays in 18x7.5). Tyres are 235/45/18 so they are narrower than stock (19x8.5s) but I need to keep road tyres on it for daily use for now. In a first, those weird size tyres had been in the yoko warehouse for so long (4.5 years apparently) that they offered 4 for the price of 2....so 4 practice tyres for about $1100. Bit of a bargain for sticker tyres, considering the real purpose of the practice day is mostly to see how the various temps go (and the weather is due to help, forecast 32o). In terms of race wheels, it looks like I should be able to fit 9.5 fronts and 10.5 rears but 18 vs 19 height will be based on what tyres I can get in the right size - good tyres are very limited in available widths in diameters above 17" so some planning is needed. Once I'm sure this car will work I'll order a set of custom BC wheels like I did for the R32, you can get exactly the right width and offset to make the most of the available space in the wheel well (the 32 has 295s all round on 18x10s and they are awesome) Incidentally A052 are asymmetrical but not directional which is good news for rally use if the front and rear wheel sizes are different because I can swap them side to side on the same axle. Directional tyres are a nightmare with staggered size wheels because each tyre is fixed on that corner unless you can get it rotated on the rim (not really practical mid rally in most cases)

Glad it worked well, is the balance OK?

You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation

If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.

classic. wonder if they actually have stock, they can't be fast moving parts

I should add....its hugely unlikely any wrecker would have that panel, or if they did that they would know they have that panel. I'd just put the interior trim back on and forget this conversation ever happened

I don't, but you can use a parts catalogue like at amayama.com with your VIN# to find Nissan's description

Exactly....but I will just add that is internet science....I've never seen hard data on a stock rb25 manifold so I'm just assuming....

Sounds spot on. My R33 gtst with a bit of boost made 162

FWIW, if the question was about the undertray for an HY51 Fuga / V37 Skyline I do actually have some knowledge....having ripped mine off crossing a weir that was deeper than I expected

Good call, and dial 00 and be ready to hit one more. Not saying it isn't safe....but I'd be more scared than first start on a rebuilt RB

And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR

The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket. As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness) and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done

OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95 and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission. From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)

I wouldn't be concerned at all, other than to suggest having them flow tested when you receive them to confirm they are reasonably similar, and then put the highest to lowest flowing ones in cylinder 6,1,5,2,4,3

not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking

I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on

wow that is super detailed!

Re the injectors, yes it would missfire but what you are looking for is current behaviour (no start without full throttle) stops and the car starts without throttle (then idles with a miss)

Looks like a bit of a handful....either plenty of chooch or maybe 4wd not working that well? BTW you twisted my arm, I booked in to 27-Feb as well

Sorry Kevin, didn't mean to raise it, just one of those things that still bugs me after all this time It doesn't make sense that it is a tune issue if it did start OK for a while....having said that this is my cranking table with half the injector you have (550s) BTW Dose, great movie