Duncan

I've never heard of any differences in the car side wiring between all 32 GTRs, so any ECU will fit and work. It would help to post full part numbers if you want input, rather than people having to guess/research if they want to help

Well, the AC relay is in that fusebox near the battery. If both wires go there the ECU wire must continue in the loom in the guard and into the cabin through the main loom grommet.

Ahh meant to post, I did check but the gaskets are not a separate part to the coil cover, which makes the sika solution doubly good.

Well, since you are pretty confident you have spark and fuel at #5 and 6, that leaves compression (other issues like timing would affect all cylinders) I'd take the cam covers off and check the cams are OK.

I know you said it has spark, are you sure there is spark at coil 5 and 6? with wet plugs you can probably rule out 5 or 6 injector or injector wiring

Have you changed the head unit? maybe the lights loop through the factory unit. In any case, if red/blue wires are everywhere under the dash and some have 12v only when the parkers are on (and some don't) then you have a wiring break somewhere, and should be safe to run an extra wire from a working part of that circuit to a part that has 0v....if you get it wrong a fuse blows, otherwise there was a broken wire somewhere in the loom and it starts working again.

p15 of the link you posted says the door control module is B-77 p11 shows B-77 is connector 38, which is to the left of the fuse box under the driver's side dash

Yes, they laugh at vertical surfaces and the "gravity" that hold we puny humans down. Seals like this, I've never used them but meant to be BAL29 compliant, the go on sides and between lintel and roll

Yeah I've got vermaguard at the bottom of the walls and the vermaseal at the top where it meets the roof in the new garage, but critters just walk up the roller doors and in through that gap (I'm going to try those brush seals when I get a chance). Unfortunately the shed where the race car is was built long ago and is neither critter nor snake proof and it is a problem, you get lots of unpleasant surprises about what they have decided to eat. Plus, I get snakes in there a bit in summer, one time in particular a brown popped out from under the workbench I was working at to hear what all the banging was about, went "oh f**k a human!" and zoomed off

Haltech can run an AFM, can't it? It just happens to have an onboard MAP sensor in the ECU it can use instead. I'm not sure where the standard AFM runs out of resolution, maybe around 250kw? If you are using the standard intake just leave it there, plugged in or not if you are using MAP. An AFM is better than a MAP sensor at lower boost loads as it deals with temperature and altitude differences better, but a MAP can be simpler when you are making a custom intake or using big boost levels where the AFM runs out of resolution.

Sorry they are physically long gone in my car, but using the excellent wiring scans GTSBoy did it looks like one side connects to the AC relay + trigger, and the other side to ECU pin 9 (AC relay). It connects for the AC pressure switch well done if you've got this far without referring to the wiring diagrams or service manual

Thanks for the pic, I assume that was from inside, not underneath as the flaps seem to move outwards? I think I'm just going to sika some flyscreen in BTW f**k you volkwagen for naming one of your shitboxes R32. It makes googling skyline parts much harder. As if anyone ever cared enough about a Golf to try and repair it, you just throw it away and buy a new one.

Like I said, I'm not a head guy, but there are separate shims under the buckets that you switch out for the desired clearance (assuming you have an endless collection of different sized ones handy). You've had 2 of the buckets out, just have a look underneath them, the shims generally stick to the bucket EN-20 and EN-21 of the GTR service manual show specs and process for RB26, sorry I don't know specs for the 25 NEO

Well, the workshop manual (about 1,000 pages in japanese) is available, PM me your email if you'd like a copy Having said that, I'd start by pulling the dash out, grabbing the dash plugs and seeing if there is a pin that goes 12v when parkers or headlights are on only. That would confirm the issue is in the dash (either dash trace or the globes). If you can't find any such pin find an interior globes that goes on and off with the parkers, eg the key or glovebox illumination, and check the wire colour; whatever it is is almost certain to be the same colour at the dash. If you don't have 12v at that colour wire at the dash connectors, just run a wire that does have the 12v to the dash plug wire that doesn't and see if you get lights

Hi mate, confirming we have the reports and will get to them as soon as one of the (volunteer) admins gets a chance

Yeah a bit like the discussion we had the other day about the boot release, there are probably other nissans from same age with similar or same system, I just don't know what is normally there (it can't be that open from factory), and even boring 90s nissans are getting hard to find now I think I'll go some ally flyscreen mesh for now, sika-ed into the frame and see how it lasts. I guess there is a massive volume of air to move when both windows are down moving at speed.

well, hello Wakie! You really should think about getting that going again, stop wasting your life with open top cars

Wow that is a big freshen up, hope you get to enjoy it for many years after that. A couple of things. If you aren't happy with the valve clearances you need to get that sorted. Both too tight and too loose are a problem and going to cause damage. I've only ever had a machine show do it for me so I don't have any useful advice there other than I've heard of people using compressed air in a spark plug hole to hold the valves closed while changing springs with the head on Secondly, as everything has been apart, more than likely there is just something wrong on re-assembly. I'd be re-checking all the connectors are well seated and the earths in particular are good, it sounds like you have a misfire from idle. coil pack and coil pack looms are a common failure Also, since the plugs are white and it runs OK once you get a few revs on board it may be running very lean at idle, is the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator attached and not leaking? And, have you changed the fuel filter and/or the pump? Finally, I believe Nissan Data Scan is the go to for monitoring the standard ECU

If you mean the oil seals inside the turbo, they won't cause a boost leak, they will only cause an oil leak (generally to the exhaust, leading to massive oil burning smoke from the exhaust). Other than that, these cars are 30 years old and it has probably done 100,000klm more than the odometer says, and has probably been driven hard at times. If I had just picked up a GTR I would - Change all fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, front and rear diffs, xfer case, attessa actuator, coolant, power steering) - Change all coolant lines (there are kits from places like justjap that include all hoses in silicone, you can go black if you like factory look) - Change all vacuum lines (this is most likely issue if you do have a boost leak). There are the regular small vacuum lines plus a few larger ones like brake/clutch booster and to and from AAC/IAC etc - Change the timing belt, and do the water pump, timing belt bearings and bearing idler stud and bolts at the same time - Put in a new coil pack loom, coil packs and spark plugs - Change the fuel filter and put in a new fuel pump - Check for loose or broken studs and if necessary change studs and gaskets for the exhaust manifold to head, manifold to turbo and turbo to dump pipe. The only problem with that list is you would need to get into all sorts of inconvenient places in the engine bay which can be really tricky unless you are used to it, most likely the job would take many days work and cost lots of skinned knuckles

Your issue is the voltage the ECU gets, not necessarily what the battery is putting out. Datascan can tell you if the voltage at the ECU is OK with IGN on, and while cranking, it needs to stay 10+ for the car to start. Good to see you checked the relays, that means next step is to check the voltage and earth at the car side of the relay wiring. If you are not getting proper volts there, the ECU won't either.

hmmm...I'd still do the leakdown test that he mentioned first, some head issue is suspicious but better to rule out other issues. And cams should always go with the head for any work with solid lifters, they can set everything in the shop

Nah all good, everything just seems really slow atm and I'm pretty sure that is because i am not excited about dealing with bodywork stuff. eg there is a bunch of surface rust from sitting in the weather with no rear end on the car for months that I ran some rust converter over yesterday and have decided to rattle can spray the boot to cover any small exposed points this is the mouse access device, you can see they opened up 2 of the barriers to make access convenient for them and the whole family Any suggestions on sealing it up (but still allowing airflow) appreciated. It is a difficult shape with sides 30-50mm deep then the plastic mesh, and the whole thing seems to be sikaflexed to the car from factory and in a tight corner of the guard, so removing/cleaning/replacing/resealing would be a mission

And also, did the problem only start after the cam was removed or was there an issue (same or different) previously

Given how many variables there are in compression tests (the gauge, the seal, battery voltage, was the throttle wide open, how long did you crank etc etc), and also that engines almost never fail evenly (even when it is just ring wear), the important thing in a compression test is reasonably even results, which you have. Time for skids.

Sorry there doesn't seem to be a quick solution. If you are not confident chasing the wiring I suggest an auto electrician. Buying a new loom might help but might not as there are multiple looms in the car and you don't currently know which one is the issue. BTW you first unit probably still works fine since it blew the fuse, not the unit itself, so that is the good news