Duncan

Yep, you need a new seal

so, got the R34 cable from Just Jap today (yes, 4 days to a rural location, still waiting for the Amayama order I paid for early April...) I haven't had a chance to check length or fittings yet, and may not this weekend, but I note the r34 cable moved to a metal instead of plastic, fuel door thread.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan

Nothing is quick these days, is it. Are you setting the diff backlash or do you need to send it out again?

top of my head, approx m4x 6mm. You can confirm the thread by threading any m4 bolt in there. BTW don't snap one off when you assemble the engine, wish the engine builder had known that back in the day.

Yep I'll check the length is same or longer and try and swap it over as plan A, because that gets me sorted and means I have a spare (borken) 32 one to look at alternatives over time...will report back

That explains a lot, I had been wondering if you were actually an AI, its getting so hard to tell these days

Still, it can probably chirp second

whoa, you have a skyline?!

No, definitely just go a set of splitfires to suit your engine, no need to change to something expensive. https://justjap.com/products/splitfire-direct-ignition-coil-packs-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-stagea-rb25de-t-neo If they are original, it is probably worth just changing to new ones, but keep in mind there is no guarantee that is your problem (or that you only have one problem). Good, properly gapped spark plugs and good quality (no cracked connectors or bad wire) coil pack loom are other common issues BTW GTSBoy we've learned about the 2nd and 4th most common issues today, I'm intrigued as to what #3 and #1 are?

So, that is a pretty good description of a missfire, which can have many causes. Most likely is a spark problem, either coil packs or spark plugs. Best to start by changing the spark plugs. If it doesn't go away, unplug the coil packs one by one with the engine running and see which one doesn't make it worse.

Thanks for the tips guys, the good people at just jap have an r34 one on the way https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boot-lid-fuel-latch-cable-fits-nissan-skyline-r34-coupe Once I've got a new one working I'll look into disassemble the old part and see possibility to getting a run of new ones made up, it is obviously a thing

Yeah good call....I'll have a look into possibility disassembly. I think it would be a pretty common failure, 30yo brittle plastic That or I need to find someone who just reshelled a coupe race car 😛

I'm no wood elf, but I was stripping varnish off some old furniture the other day, initially with paint stripper then sanding it down. Varnish clogs sandpaper like crazy, long before the actual medium is blunted. I discovered this stuff, which is basically just a softish rubber stick, as long as it is not too glazed it pulls the varnish off the paper and makes basically like new again https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/g183

The other progress I made (no pics either) was on the driver's door handle. For years it hasn't closed properly, so I took the opportunity of the door being apart to pull it out and have a good look. Basically, the main parts are cast aluminium, and I can only think that at some stage I jumped in or out in too much of a rush and have managed to bend the moving part of the assembly. Probably when the car was on fire one day, or I was grumpy about doing *another* engine It was very tricky to get into unbend it in all required directions because the handle is permanently attached to the housing (they have welded or press fit the pin that holds the 2 parts together). A combination of g clamps to pull things back together and a bit of dremel time on the 2 cast parts that are meant to *just* slide past each other but were hitting pretty hard in my case, has it all working smoothly again now

Onto progress instead of anti-progress. I found myself wondering if this is really a race car anymore, because when I found out new door seals and moulds are available (door and chassis sides), I went and bought them. So, last 2 weekends was doors off (man they are heavy), door cards off, give everything a good clean and grease. Old stuff looked pretty crap, although they were sealing OK I figured if they have a mid-life refresh at 31 the car should easy outlast my racing career Gift for future Duncan, both window motors are now marked with polarity to put them up or down with a battery Both doors clean and new seals in place

So, never trust the smash repair to keep all old parts, even if you tell them too. Particularly the broken front indicator with the irreplaceable wiring. Just Jap sorted me out with their one of their last original indicators, like BK previously send the nismo heritage ones (much more expensive) don't include the wiring. I guess irreplaceable will become more and more common. Speaking or irreplaceable, I have a tricky problem I'll need to sort. Among the many many bits of damage around the car, the fuel flap holder shocked open in the crash and doesn't close. On closer inspection, the hollow plastic thread that the striker for the flap sits in has cracked. That is part of the whole combined boot pull part and the one in the parts car is missing too. No pic of that but it is going to need some thinking

narrows it down a bit.....timing cover (maybe foreign object or something broken off and bouncing around) or cam covers (nasty, could be a cam oiling issue)? Cam covers are pretty easy to take off and have a look for anything amiss. Injectors are often noisey but you should be able to isolate that (and they should not get noisey then quiet.

Where do you think it is coming from, gearbox, bottom end, top end, injectors, accessories?

Like I said, I've not seen published max wheel loads, and most V35 information is out of Japan so Japanese only. Perhaps a path is to look into any Infiniti G35 information from the US.

OK great news. In that case the 32 style pump has 2 pressure stages and therefore 2 pressure outlets as well as the low pressure in from the reservoir. When HICAS is removed it could either be by removing the second stage of the pump and plugging it up, or retaining the second stage to feed something like a PS cooler. You need to work out if you are using both stages before you can decide if you need a 32 or 33/34 pump. Rebuilding the PS pump with a new bearing is pretty straightforward and likely to be cheaper than replacing the pump, particularly as you may only need to replace the bearing if you are sure the pump itself is not leaking.

Right, so you need to find and fix the oil leak as well in that case. I can't be sure from the video, but it looks like you still have 2 lines going to the PS pump, so you need a 32 style one nor 33 or later. A pic of the top rear of the pump would confirm; you can have hicas removed but still have both stages in place depending how it was done. BTW sounds like you should get a mechanic to fix this if you are not confident with everything required

Welcome to SAU, and take good care of those classics! (I think you should drive the wagon and part the sedan personally, but each to their own)

What on earth are you putting them on? Anyway, I've never seen load rating for wheels. They will be fine (unless they break, which they won't)

sorry, I should add that rebuilding them is pretty simple if you can source the seal kits. The bearing (the bit that failed) will have the number written on it, it's a generic part.