Duncan

Do you know why it died? generally either low oil or belt too tight, best to know so the replacement doesn't go the same way. Looks likely that the rear stage is still connected so RB25 one won't do. Where are you (location on your profile would help)? I'm pretty sure I have a gtst spare because a second handy I picked up was labelled R32, but the rb26 and rb20 pumps are not mounted the same.

uh-oh, you forgot to put oil in it.

Exactly. To me relianble doesn't mean "able to last through warranty", it means usable for a reasonable period after that too. We are very spoiled by the (heavily loss making) nissan engineers from the 90s

Just FYI, the original HKS cam gears had issues with the aluminium being soft, leading to the bolts slipping and timing changing (potentially engine lunching as a result)....so careful what you wish for!

The VCT oil feed returns via the head, so it is effectively a head oil supply as well, remembering the purpose of the table is to prevent high flow oil pumps filling the head (and emptying the sump). You will need an oil supply for the VCT, I'm not familiar with the various options

Anyway...I've not seen/heard that before but something is pretty unhappy there. Have you changed the oil lately, and were there any metallic flakes? Also, if you push the clutch in with someone watching under the bonnet, does the harmonic balancer move back and forward at all?

Holy shit you've lost your steering wheel!

Thanks for closing the loop, that will help the next person

I get nissan are choosing not to help, or don't know they can, but the hardware/software local dealers have do have this capability. Like Greg I have a consult III clone which can connect to my fuga and other weird imports including my Cima, Titan etc OK.

Interesting, and what if you swap the TB, does the problem follow the TB or stay with the wiring? Nissan are just choosing not to help (or don't know their own software). The software is the same across all models including JDM, perhaps consider another dealer if possible.

fking bargain compared to a R34 GTR. fking expensive for a car you can't drive

I believe the alternative is to do it via a consult, so you may have to try nissan, they are incorrect if they think they can't do it, the just need to choose DOM for Japanese Domestic on the Consult. The key procedure is painful to get right... One other option, does it idle OK if you unplug the AFMs? I had an AFM die which sent the ECU to limp mode, which allows it to run fine at idle (but not rev)

The good people at Uprev have the re-learning procedure here: https://uprev.com/documentation/Resets-for-Nissan-Infiniti-Functions.pdf Super fiddly, but my car would barely run after a reflash until I got this right and is now perfect. Note, disconnecting the battery for a minute or 2 is worth trying first

You need to start with the 4wd chassis to avoid about 90% of the hard work; the front suspension is different in the 2wd models

No wonder the engine bay solenoids were missing, someone probably wanted to change the oil filter at some stage. Was there any flexible lines connected to that solenoid where the banjos are?

(apologies in advance, pretty sure this pic predates camera phones) Demonstration that a wing can't be too large on an R33 GTST....2Fast2Furious drive-in SAU night

well, you'll be able to tell immediately if it is not sorted because you will have 12v and lower when the car is running. If it is 13.8ish all is well. One option is to add a resistor instead of a battery charge globe which can be hidden behind the dash, but you lose the warning it your alternator isn't working with that solution.

Looks awesome. How to you excite the alternator?

Malcolm had a super tidy GTST with some Nismo parts, cleanest skyline I've ever seen.

Well, let's just say it was "period correct". You would have been the coolest person in the carpark under the freeway in 1995

I am reasonably sure there was no "nismo" r33 gtst, what information did you have on such a beast? If you check your vin in FAST it might tell you if there is something special

well, I hope you are OK (other than the wallet)....nothing puts racing on hold like repair bills

Right, with the 3 day weekend I got a heap more done (not) But I did finish putting the scuttle panel cover back in with new clips and the wipers back in. I also checked out where the spoiler had been mounted to the new boot. 4/5 to the shop for putting some sika there to seal between the wing and the boot. Genuine seal on the right This is what it looks like when you change the wing sometime in the car's life and don't put the seal back. There was no rust visible on this bootlid with the spoiler attached (which is why I foolishly bought it to replace the one I smashed the crap out of). Worse, this boot had rust before and was not repaired properly, just bogged, then they STILL didn't put the seal back in All back together with the proper nissan seals in place (got them new from Just Jap). Should stay rust free until the next tree hits it.

I guess they are green relays on a 32 GTST then First thing I'd do is swap the relays. If the ECU starts up OK immediately (but you do or do not have ignition issues), the relay is the problem. You can test the relay on the bench by applying 12v directly to pins 1 and 2, you should hear a click and have continuity between pins 3 and 5. To check wiring to the relay, take the relay out and probe the 4 pins. On both relays, pins 1 and 3 (or 2 and 3) should have battery voltage (or continuity to the side of the 25A ENG CONT FL that does not have battery voltage when the FL is out). pin 3 (or 2) on each should have continuity to pin 16 on the ECU (the one you earthed earlier), this is the signal to turn the relay on. Pin 5 on each relay is different but the ECCS relay should have continuity from that pin to ECU 49, 49, 109 (and the ignition relay to the ignitor box on the engine). BTW the relay shows the layout on the top. As Andrew said 1 and 2 are the switch and 3 and 5 the contacts that are switched on.

Nissan Data Scan is here (I think, I don't have a standard ECU and have never used it): http://www.nissandatascan.com/ You need the consult port to PC (USB I assume) cable so it requires physical purchase. The ECCS relay is what pin 16 of the ECU connects to so that is probably the quickest way to find it. I though it was a blue relay but you mention you only have 1 near the ECU and I expected 2 (ECCS and Ignition), and it is a 4 pin not 2. It is right next to the ECU on the A pillar assuming everything is stock(ish) This is the thread with the wiring diagrams: Per diagram 1, chase the wires at pins 16 (earth trigger for relay) and 49, 59, 109 (main ECU power), they go to the ECCS relay, power apparently comes to it from a 25A fusible link, I believe they are all in the engine bay fuse box next to the battery (diagram says Fusible Link 5)