Duncan

awesome, thanks for the quick response and I'd appreciate the tailshaft check too when you get a chance. that way I can do my bit to keep a hectic drifter a on track somehwere

I recently picked up some spares for the GTR. Or at least, I was told everything I was getting was from a GTR which during the conversation turned into "oh yeah that might be from the silvia...or the ae86...". Anyway, I know the pair of rear driveshafts on the left are GTR (although the lengths are a little different to my spares, I think that is just slack in the CV), but what are the pair on the right? They are similar length but 2x3 bolt instead of 6x1 bolt, and have a very different flange at the diff end (pointed not flat). Diameter is 28mm vs 30mm for the GTR ones Also, this random 2 piece drive shaft was also included....can anyone identify, perhaps silvia or AE86 or possibly early evo? Length from flange to end of gearbox shaft is approx 1330mm Any ideas?

Awesome project, we definitely need more detail and updates Given it is a DE not a DD, you should look into Uprev as they can remove NATS from the ECU. It also makes the ECU tunable which might be important depending on how it responds to breathing a bit better than factory (the DD went pretty rich at full throttle from just a cat back exhaust)

Is this the VR30DDTT? Be good to see some info on them, that is the new z motor too.

I just posted up a thread about my AN turbo water feed melting in a high mount setup. Metal lines will never have that issue Factory lines are excellent and well routed, but you should source new ones instead or re-using old if possible. In particular, the oil feed to the rear turbo does a couple of loops to keep the same length as the front line, and any type of crud in there greatly increases the likelihood of rear turbo failure

big hammer at 3mm not impossible though Depending on the size of the bracket, 3mm angle iron can be very helpful

I believe they are m5 on the coil pack cover, and from memory they may be m5 on the timing cover as well. However, the timing cover might be a specific bolt with a wider shank where it goes through the rubber bushes. m5 is almost certainly 0.8 pitch (coarse) for length, unless someone knows and assuming you can't measure the depth of the hole with a set of calipers, just buy a bunch of 20mm bolts, put them in carefully and if they tighten up/bottom out before the head tightens down just shorten them with a hacksaw. You want at least as much thread engaged as the diameter of the bolt, ie 5mm. You should also consider what head you want on the bolts - hex for a spanner/socket, inhex for an allen key, and flat under the head vs countersunk.

very interesting service. I wonder how/if they balance it afterwards as the new flange is not symetrical

So, I'm assuming you have a v37 skyline and OP was talking about m35 stagea. I don't know specifics for either. The uprev site says So. assuming it is correct, you'd hit ebay/yahoo japan etc and search for your car's model code and "cruise control button" or "steering wheel" if they are one part. Something like this: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h551134787 However, I have no idea if there is some incompatibility you need to consider specific to your model, and in the case of v37 it looks like you probably need a radar cruise control unit for the front bumper as well. If you want this for uprev maps, I'd simply suggest contacting them as they will have first hand experience or know someone who does. If you are looking for factory cruise when you don't have it, I guess that will be a bit of a learning curve

yeah according to uprev that is an issue if you don't have it (I assumed everything would....) they recommend adding cruise control buttons from another model of the same car, as most have the wiring in place. but like I said above, I've only ever changed maps to test that I could, I'm not sure of the day to day value?

yes, standard turbos rebuilt with steel wheels in the same size and same/similar boost will be the cheapest way to get going again....no tune issues that way. Plus, rebuild is cheaper than all new turbs as no other fittings/exhaust/etc changes are required

Auto support is uncommon in aftermarket. I can't see why uprev wouldn't do everything you need. I have 2 uprev-ed cars (Titan and Fuga) and have only ever used the primary tuned maps (the others are intended to cover fuel economy over performance, valet mode, standard, towing but to me it's a bit of a gimmick). If you need a display, there are various options for ODB readers, I use Greedy Informeter.

Out of interest, why do you want an stand alone ECU. Uprev will allow you to load up to 5 tunable maps into the factory ECU. If not, it is likely any good aftermarket ECU can be wired in. I'm not sure on the motor or it's needs in that car but I guess it will need to support twin e throttles, quad fully variable cam timing but otherwise pretty nothing tricky. You also need to consider transmission control if it is auto

I mean, grab a pry bar or even just the biggest screwdriver you have that you don't care too much about, lever it between the bush and something solid, then give the end of the bar a firm push (perhaps even a whack with a hammer)

looks like you haven't hit the thread underneath, so no issue there. you should still try to get a pry bar behind it to shock it off, and heat will help. You only need to break the seal then it will come out reasonably easy

thanks for the pic, I think hard lines are the right choice to do a high mount properly, I'll go that way if these new lines have trouble, and I wish they had been done as hard lines in the first place....the oil drain is a hard line until it clears the manifold which was a good choice. did you have a bender for the lines? nissan engineers put hard lines there in the first place, then we make the whole area much hotter by bigger turbos and twice or more factory power but put rubber or plastic lines on it?

Unless someone knows this wiring off the top of their head...take a multimeter meter and confirm which wire on the car side of the cut has continuity to ground (earth) and which has 0v when fog lights are off and 12v when fog lights are on.

Not much of an update, other than to say I remade both water lines in 200 series, ended up using the speedflow shielding again too because that's what I could get quickly. The routing is still difficult for the feed at the top of the turbo due to needing to come pretty much straight out of the core to clear the turbo housings, but then head about 120o to go around the rear of the motor. Braided doesn't really bend that well so I'm still using a 45 at the turbo but pointed down a little as well as rearward to give maximum clearance in the space. I noticed aeroflow to a 25mm -6 extension so I'll add one of those when I get the chance. Also interesting to note that 200 series -6 is much smaller outer diameter than 100 series -6 which was nice. And I've added a turbo beanine too, hopefully all that will do it. It's hard to see in the pic, but previously the heat sleeve was touching the turbo housing, now it clears it by about 20mm and the beanie is on too. BTW working on the car reminded me how well designed factory stuff is. On the stagea with the highmount, everything fits, but there are lots of vacant spaces that are not accessible (perfect to drop things into, never to be retrieved) and fittings that are super hard to get a tool onto. Packaging on the GTR factory twins, for example, is much easier to work on.

While everything was apart I noticed the coilpack loom was in pretty bad condition with a couple of broken connectors, so she got a new one of those as well before she lets me down one rainy night

get it nice and warm with a blow torch (no idea what a heat gun can do, but not enough), the get a pry bar behind it and shock it loose. If you need to get a grip on the bush a big pair of vice grips would help

too late to remember to paste the link in?

Nissan used AFMs rather than MAP sensors for a reason, it wasn't an accident. They might cause intake restrictions at very high power but they are excellent for things like cold start, atmospheric pressure adjustment etc. Anyway, if you want the cheapest aftermarket ECU so you can tune it, a power fc is about 30-50% the cost of a haltech (500-800$), and the base map is usable without a tune in the short term.

No, I'm pretty sure the US entering the global market for these cars is what changed things here. The timing aligns exactly with the last 3 years. It used to be a car like this would be 2-5k AUD , some skid kid would buy it, bang it into a telegraph pole in an industrial area on saturday night, then buy another one and transfer any useful parts over. Since there is no more supply of them out of Japan at any price (because you guys have buy them all), the replacement is no longer possible. Then, put fear of missing out on top of that and here we are, prices where most enthusiasts can't possibly buy them (kind of like houses in Australia too)

umm yes, me too....unigroup welded up the stainless one on the stagea about 4 times before the convinced me to go with a 6boob manifold instead. And....since we've strayed into pendatry.....aren't steam pipe bends cast?

The real factor you should consider is that stainless manifolds almost always crack due to heat cycling. Cast ones deal with the temperature changes much better......there is a reason factory manifolds are cast