Duncan

Well, I guess that explains the Lumley thing. I got an email the other day purporting to be from Lumley that they had identified an error (no details) and would be providing a refund (including interest)....of $9.4k. Ignored it as obvious spam until the refund actually turned up in my account today. I know I pay a lot per month over the cars and have been with them for 10 years.....but still.....if you really make a mistake that big it might be worth a 2 minute call. ......off to buy some more mods....

hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.

keep an extinguisher nearby? or even better, take it out of the car to charge?

Bulk charging can be a high voltage but I would have though 14.x not 15.x What battery type?

Yeah agreed.....sunlight and heat would be the biggest risks.

that is still a future, potential state.....

Probably OK if you can do it yourself, our local Auto Elec couldn't get a kit for it so couldn't be bothered fixing....

I am very confident every insurer outsources their Assessing to people who get paid a bonus for the $$$ in reduction in claims they assess, so they are deliberately incentivised to screw customers

sadly V37 skyline has that "feature" too when you select sport or sport+. Can't hear it through a helmet though

I don't facebook, but if you are coming south on a weekend and post up here.....we'll likely be there.

Where things are NLA new, you can always try Yahoo Auction JP. I bought 2 C34 stagea compressors and the first one I fitted worked OK, but feels like a real lottery. Any future failure I would modernise with the Frenchy's kit or similar for sure.

You need to buy a Saab Matt, ours had a button that turned all the dash lights off. Any decent aftermarket dash has sufficient brightness control and a headlight input for day/night settings. None of which probably helps OP

Are you going for a "period correct" build, I haven't seen them in a really long time..... I'd check the japanese brands in the hope they have a higher quality / better match to factory; if ebay has some I'd expect them to be pretty crap

Good news, we now know why this is a giant leap forward for the environment "The box takes up less space in landfill than traditional packaging". https://www.instagram.com/p/DHW77Eit_p6/ Thank f**k, humanity is saved.

The tension is automatic....if you follow the installation instructions Self adjusting tensioners are used when the chain/belt is expected to stretch during it's service life, but the downside is the tensioner itself can fail and cause a problem, while the RB system is locked once it is installed and doesn't have that risk

This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt

good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple

1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded. Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.

I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK

Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue

1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway. 3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.

Yeah it is really until until you get a feel for it....then it is easy. Which is no use to you really. I'd buy that torque wrench. One thing from sure, many (most?) tyre shots overtighten the f**k out of wheel nuts, so don't worry if they were tighter when you tried to take them off compared to when you do them up. I've had some crazy tight ones come back from shops, quite apart from the potential damage to the thread, I can't see a smaller person taking the wheel off on the side of the road

Do you have a link to the supplier, and how do they sound (I'm assuming there is no noticeable change to power :))

Looks like that gasket should have been censored....glad to hear it is sorted

Saw this today via Super Cheap. https://trade.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-1-x-enviro--5w30-20l/SPO7089220.html They are very clear that the box style is "Enviro+" as well as a green coloured box. No information in the listing suggests what the actual green washing claim for dinosaur juice in a non-recyclable foil bag might be