Duncan

When I first need to buy tyres for a new car, I just put the correct size on to get an accurate speedo. It generally is a fair bit taller than factory which also helps with ride quality and ground clearance. I used one of those jaycar adjusters on the stagea for a while, but ultimately getting correcting it with tyre size is simple and reliable

Welcome, you must be pretty patient to wait at least a year for the car. What is the hold up?

It's OK, you don't. You buy a set of ACL aftermarket oversize bearings and machine the crank to suit if you can't just use standard size bearings. The Nissan 1/2/3 grading was for very small variations on a new crank, it is not worth worrying about these days for an un-machined, second hand crank with a few klm on it.

Most likely the only issue it has is how the test was done, those results are fine. You need plugs out, wide open throttle and well charged battery probably with a booster pack when you do every cylinder. Even then 9.2% variance is not an issue

sounds like a very sensible choice for that category....keep us updated on how you go

if it didn't stop in or shortly after, it is fine.

Have you disconnected HICAS somehow?

I think you've changed the spark plugs, coil packs and coil pack loom so far? Which coil packs did you install? Can you swap the best of your original coil packs in one by one and see if you can identify one of the new ones is not OK? Also, what plugs did you install? Also, you've mentioned it has a miss at idle. How does it run for normal driving and at full throttle, is it smooth or does it still break down? I'm assuming the issue is on the spark side since that is what you got from the ECU....but of course it could still turn out to be a fuel or timing issue

Good point, thanks. Pretty sure I can get fuel economy on the centre screen too, I usually just have it on battery level so I don't think about the others.

Glad you sorted it, because now I have a question (the Fuga has the same or similar) Graphs are kind of crap for accuracy....do you know any way to get an actual number for average economy from either that page or the status? Both just show a bar with somewhere between 12 and 15klm per l in the Fuga which is not particularly accurate...

If you have a standard balancer and the ATI one you can calculate the % underdriven by comparing the diameter of both. If not, I believe the only difference between standard 32 and 33 pulleys are the number of ribs for the belt, so you can measure off a 32 one as well.

Got a picture of the calipers? Also, knowing the diameter of the discs will help too.

And, a wheel alignment should at least tell you if there is a problem or not. It is possible what you are seeing is normal... Just make sure they check toe, camber and caster, and give you a copy of the before and after results.

How did you come to know the ECU is faulty? In any case, with a new ECU you will need to program the keys for it to start. I don't know the procedure but hopefully it is posted up somewhere.

For a dealership and the amount of work involved, I think that is quite reasonable. It will be about half the price at a good mechanic with import experience because: they will charge much less per hour, they may have done the job before (nissan won't have) and they can choose to use non-genuine parts where it won't make a difference. As for time, it will be a day or 2 + lead time for any parts they didn't realise they need which will be 4-6 weeks. So again, someone with experience is the go.

On the firewall there will be a japanese build plate with a number something like WGNC34-xxxxxx. You can put that into a VIN search like here and find the factory spec of the car - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h And I understand about Stageas....I bought an auto, turbo one about 15 years ago. It is now manual, has mostly GTR running gear under it and makes about 400awkw from a 3l engine and largish turbo. Still pretty low key car externally though.

yeah those are have a crappy lock too, but I meant these ones Same pins and similar body to what you have but the red piece does the locking and is brittle. PITA. Deutsch is the ones when you have a choice, even their big multi pin connectors are great to work with. Expensive tho.

Actually, be really careful with depinning those AMP connectors....I find them an absolute arsehole to work with. The tabs on the locking cap break easily then you are left with a connector that is almost impossible to seat back in properly locked. I ended up buy 2 new ones out of the US (Haltech would not supply) for a fortune. Also, they are very fiddly with seating the pins at the right depth, initially is OK but if you repin something you have to make sure every wire is still seated properly as they can back out. Pretty much every other style of connector I've worked with is easier, except for those POS pull through ones like in the pressure senders. *edit* cancel the locking clip rant, that is a different type of AMP lock they used on the smartwire. The one in your pic looks much better (maybe they redesigned after issues)

Man even I had to google Bunbury, my knowledge ends at Mandurah Anyway, pistons/rings, rods, bearings + gasket kits, timing belts etc are all readily available in a range of prices. I use Justjap.com but there are many other choices too. I'm sure others here can recommend. Machining can be done at any competent engine shop and there are no real tricks required inside a non-turbo, standard motor (noting you could take the opportunity to turbo it because Stageas can really do with a bit more oomph, but it will triple your cost by the time you add computer, injectors, exhaust manifold etc). If you do a rebuild, make sure you at least inspect and possibly replace the oil pump, and replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt idler and tensions bearings and the bolt and stud that hold those on. But the reason I asked is that the failure you described is very unusual, particularly in what I am guessing is a non-turbo, unmodified engine. Assuming it is internal it will be interesting to learn what failed.

Yeah I used to run the trust sump on the race car but you just cant have anything below the cross member for race/rally use. I hit it so hard on the curbs at Oran Park that I knocked the sump plug out and cracked it in multiple places. I also use the high octane one now and even in the recent off road excursion there was no damage to the sump

I'm not surprised it wouldn't show up on a map, Adelaide's more like a country town than a city anyway I sorted the details in your earlier post but can't do much about your signon name, there are about 100 Mals here already. As you can see some people do use their real names for signon anyway. Re your engine....if you are certain it is the engine knocking with revs not an accessory on the front eg power steering, I'm not sure I'd do a compression test next. If it is stuffed, the more it rotates the more expensive it gets to fix. I think it is time to pull it out and work out what happened. BTW movies taught me mustangs are meant to have RB26 under the bonnet, you better get onto that swap.

Apexi PowerFC is much cheaper than haltech or link and is plug and play, and has a display/handcontroller that allows monitoring and changing tune without a laptop. It has more than enough functions to run mild to medium modified street cars. However, the cost of tuning the an ECU your tuner is not familiar with will likely be more than you save on the ECU purchase price, so check first

I don't think most cars need an upgrade over the standard ignition system, if it is in good working order it can handle a pretty wide power range. Of course if you are running significant boost (say 20psi+) you might need stronger spark than the factory system In my experience the splitfires are as good as OEM but a fraction of the price, that's what I run in the race car. Otherwise there are other aftermarket coil pack makers but since quality has varied over the years it is a bit of a lottery, I stay clear

Right, so higher than standard boost on standard ecu is probably pushing things. Are you in summer or winter (no location on your profile), in winter the cooler air can cause problems too. I'd say most likely it is a spark breakdown problem. Go with the steps above (check wiring connections, coil packs for signs of failure and new plugs with 0.8mm gaps) as first steps

That is a pretty good description of a misfire, they most commonly happen as you come onto full boost. What mods does the car have and what boost does it run? The best place to start it for a spark problem is the coil packs; check each connector to the wiring loom is tight/seated properly, then remove them and check each one for cracks or scorch marks that might show a short, then remove/check/replace the spark plugs too (you could gap the plugs done to 0.8mm if everything else looked good). For a fuel problem start by changing the filter, also could be the pump itself dying.