Duncan

Pretty much every r32 dash in existence has bubbles like that. You either need to fluke a good second hand one (almost impossible), or re-cover or flock it.

Do you have a pic of what you are after?

Just Jap would still be willing to have a look for one and bring it in for you. You have to expect there is a reason everyone else has given up though, and it's not because people stopped wanting them...

OK, so I'm not certain if VQ37 is the same, but with RB blocks they are sold by Nissan without an engine number (you are meant to stamp it with the same engine number for the block you are replacing). So, it may be that your block has been replaced for some reason and was not stamped before it was installed. You would have the correct engine number on your current rego, so if you end up stuck that number can be stamped on the engine you have.

In the meantime, if you need to drive, the wiring plug is probably identical (r32 clutch and brake switch are), so just move the wiring across to the working switch

I have not looked for an engine number on one of these, but the location in the pic will be easiest to access from underneath, while up on a hoist.

So, I don't know the R33 GTST flashes. However, I had as similar issue for the drivers side seat airbag in the cima, ultimately I unplugged it and put an appropriately sized resistor between the 2 wires on the car side to turn the light out. I can't remember the resistor size and it varies between models, but I just used a variable resistor (pot) to find the right one to put in. That would get you an airbag steering wheel but no airbag warning light

you just need to run a piece of string around the belt path then measure it to determine the belt part #

Given that you've looked for other excess and have the sump off, I would put it back on without excessive sealant and never think about it again

Thanks for (re)sharing all the details. I've lost multiple engines due to oil pressure issues and am always interested in what we can all do to avoid it. I don't mean this as finger pointing, but the fact it was apart and re-assembled says most likely the issue was something in that process either missing/wrong/dirty because we know when it is all good engines don't fail with such light use. I think that is more likely than the sump simply being emptied by the oil pump, particularly when no g forces were involved and you've done key things like enlarged head oil returns in the block. If the head had enough oil in it to empty a 5l sump it would have been spitting oil out the breathers like crazy

Better move quick then, only 11 days left!

Thanks, I'll talk to Just Jap about the JSAI stuff. In this case i am looking for OK/not crap but I don't really need it to be good because it is kind of sacrificial. And thanks for the offer on something made properly like you said I assume the freight would be a killer, same possibly even worse for guards with their shape

Can you remind us history of the bottom end, was it stock (with nitto pump) or had it been rebuilt (in which case there are potential issues with clearances, oil gallery plugs, crank oil passage cleanliness etc) Was everything OK until high rev, high load runs on the dyno? Is the head and returns all stock too? There is an old thread out there on engine failures which was a helpful place to store learnings

Since 32 GTR front end parts are not on Nissan heritage yet and genuine second hand are going for drug money as a result, I'm looking into fibreglass, but OEM style, guards and bonnet for the rally car Any suggestions on suppliers with reasonable quality, preferably NSW/ACT?

I don't have a car handy to swing around under, but definitely if the stop is missing/damaged or the switch is mis adjusted, the brake lights stay on rather than off. I've had to replace the rubber piece in 2 cars now for this reason (our old navara worked the same way)

Welcome to the forums!

The brake switch pushes on a little rubber piece on the pedal itself; if that brakes or falls out, the lights stay on. Have a look at the clutch pedal in comparison and you'll see where the switch pushes

DOES IT ALWAYS MAKE THE NOISE OR JUST WHEN YOU SHIFT FASTER. IF YOU GO FIRST TO NEUTRAL THEN LET CLUTCH OUT THEN BACK IN AND SHIFT TO SECOND DOES IT HAPPEN

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SNATCHES DOES IT CRUNCH

Don't do it; get a windscreen guy to do it for you. Even the guys doing this every day often break the screen on the way out, plus, getting a pro to do it is cheap

Lol I would have thought you can't have too much run off on the side of a mountain, but I guess that's a discussion for another day

I've never noticed a cap with the logo cast different to the others (but then I've also never dealt with rb20 rods). In any case the numbering on the rod end and cap show what is was machined for and you said yours was correct. Suspicious that the rod with the bearing problem had this but co-incidence is still an option. For the oil pump, I think you were putting this in a street car, right? Nissan engineers knew there were issues with the oil pump engagement from a short crank since at least 1992, so their decision to keep them for another 10 years shows they were not causing trouble in regular engines for road use. Unless you are building this for big turbo power, stick with the short crank nose and just put it back together (and don't drive around on the rev limiter!) Re that bearing, if you are disassembling the whole engine clean out the crank oil galleries thoroughly, there could be an oil feed issue to that journal

Is pikes peak paved all the way to the top these days? You definitely need to address the hubs because the driveshaft keeps them on. I've never done this but assume R32 GTST front uprights and hubs are the simple solution. More information on the car would be interesting, perhaps even motorsport build thread over here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/272-motorsport-builds/

No, sure enough p CH-54 mentions the sealant on the 3 bolts but no torque settings. It is listed on SD-11 though

CH-88 in the manual