Duncan

A miss is as good as a mile...but keep in mind you may not be able to fit balancing weights on the wheel if it is very tight also, rocks can get lodged and gouge the inner rim when it is very close too....I don't care on the race car but it might be an issue for road (or carpark) use

yeah I think the expensive ones are too smart. they decide there is nothing there to charge when the battery is very flat so you need to just get some juice into it through an old fashioned method first. Obviously they are a good thing once you get to a full battery because they more carefully manage the volts and amps when it is getting right up there

Not really sure of the order you are thinking, but you need front plate with chosen clutch pivot and xfer case on before you fit it in the car. Yes you can fill the gearbox and transfer case before you install it, and no you won't lose any (or much) oil if you do it that way

Run the charger in power supply mode for a couple of hours and see if that shocks it out of dead. The smart chargers decide not to charge if they think the battery is not ready for a charge.

By far the easiest and most accurate way to deal with the speedo issue is a GPS module for the ECU. If you have HICAS (but who does?!?!) you might need to output from the ECU to pin 53

Well, mine is a sample of 1, but unfortunately mine we the odd one out ECU that was only used for a month

Yeah the ECU was perfect, wasn't a problem until I started modifying.

Sorry I don't have specifics, but I ran my manual conversion on the original ECU for some time. I believe that bridging the park switch was the only thing required

If you are that concerned, the only definitive check is through FAST or someone that has decoded it. For the Fuga I used: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan In the end I don't think it matters much. If it has everything for the model you wanted, what is the gap? You've bought an import so both purchase price and resale value will be lower than a locally delivered car

Yes, if the engine is vibrating but running smoothly it is probably not a missfire. I'd check all of the accessory belts carefully, and make sure all of the accessories are mounted properly, eg power steering pump is tight. There are lots of other rotating bits that could come out of balance (eg, the harmonic balancer itself) but at least you can check those easily. If you have a timing light, check the base timing against the balancer too, if it is miles off it may be the balancer

Yeah, I'm not sure why, but the stock ECU does use both a throttle switch and the TPS. Aftermarket ECUs just use the TPS so the switch is no longer required.

Oh, and BTW, don't turbo it, leave it stock, repair anything you can and sell in in 10 years for a fortune. You have a collector's car.

You've mentioned A8 a couple of times, what is that about? You can certainly turbo your engine, you just need to understand the turbo oil and water plumbing, intake and exhaust to suit, ECU, injectors etc. Depending on the block it can be harder to do a twin cam conversion because some blocks don't have the machined flat surface for the second tensioner required for that, but it doesn't sound like you were thinking about going that way

Yes, but that's not the point Although, as I guess Neil would say, "If you can't go fast, look good" I think you will have trouble when you have enough caster with the wheel hitting the front bumper at full compression as you turn lock to lock. Flares can cover up whatever butchery is required to clear that

I don't know about S chassis with strut fronts, but on r chassis longer LCAs is the best way to increase camber since it doesn't decrease track and put more pressure on the upper arm. A miss is as good as a mile to the shock, as long as you have the tyre size you are looking for. I'd just put flares on the front if you can. You need to make sure you have lock to lock clearance at full compression in the front

You're keen. It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

Sorry it's been a long time since my stagea had the cross over inlet But yes I'd start with the car idling and unplug each coil in turn. If the revs don't drop the coil is not firing properly. You might also find one or more coil pack look plugs loose or cracked. But that test isn't a guarantee it is not a spark problem because it might have enough power to fire at idle, but not under boost When you don't know the car or it's service history, new spark plugs are an easy starting point too

And I guess the other question would be does it drive OK now, or when it is a little warmer. It is possible the standard ECU is just unhappy with the amount of air it got through the combination of the exhaust and being cold, the stagea ECU in particular is not very tolerant of mods. Otherwise, it could be any of the billion usual issues with a 25 year old car that has probably been around the block once or twice. Could be fuel pump (or filter) as suggested above. Could be fouled spark plugs. Could be dying coil packs, coil pack loom or even just poorly seated coil pack connectors. Could be the CAS. Could be a boost leak. Could be the AFM.....all just a bit hard to guess from here. That pop from the exhaust was just that it was either running very rich or misfiring (which also results in burned fuel)

was it cold, and is it modified at all? It's midwinter, right? cold air combined with mild mods on a standard ECU could be the problem

Buy a fuga hybrid instead for that use. Faster, cheaper, much more refined.

Agreed...they all start to show their age from about there. Not to say the engine is toast, just that all of the clearances and wear are starting to have an effect and a thicker oil can help. An easy way to tell you need thicker oil in an older engine is that your are using it between oil changes. Could be rings, could be valve stem seals but either way going up one viscosity will likely help. You might also note lower oil pressure if you keep a close eye on it, particularly at idle I think most modern performance engines have tight tolerances and expect 0w30 or 5w30 which will be fine for the first 50-100,000klm, but again they will start to burn it after that

Well, welcome to the forums and it would be great to see a body restoration build thread on here. I would have thought that if the car was originally a GTST you would want at an rb25det in it, depending on your level of commitment to original it could be a the original r33 series or a NEO from a 34. It will be a slug with an RB20DE

Sorry thought you might have been from Canada (no location on your profile)....yes in NSW i'd use 10w40 or potentially 10w50

As well as klm on the motor consideration, how hot/cold does it get where you are? 5w or 10w is fine, although 5w is better if you get cold starts 30 is a little thin for a higher klm engine, 40 or 50 would be better. I don't think there is any practical difference between semi of full synthetic for a road car. Just change it every 10,000klm or even better every 5,000klm

Yes, that is true that a ball bearing turbo is likely to take that treatment better than a thrust bearing turbo (particularly compared to some of the old 270o thrust bearing turbos). I guess you don't need anyone to tell you it's not ideal either way though