Duncan

That was a bit hard to follow. You are saying when you floor it in 2nd it shifts down to 1st and that is a concern? What are the revs in 1st when that happens, and at what revs does it shift up to 2nd again?

Well googling the part number implies it is a relay for an A31 cefiro...

Shit I remember when she was born...probably even pre face book....anyway, introduce her to eastern creek skidpan

I've changed my vote. Mazda Roadpacer for sure.

fark. That does my head in

I'm so far southside I fell out of Sydney! How's life treating you ?

Any pistons (including standard) will be fine for weekend driving, assuming you are not looking to make substantially more power than standard. Compared to many cars the RB skylines were very well engineered from factory I'd be using Standard pistons and rings to suit ACL rod and main bearings Reuse Rods and Crank with new standard or ARP rod bolts New, aftermarket oil pump eg Nitto VRS kit with metal head gasket New rear main, cam cover, cam, oil pump and cam half moon seals New standard head bolts, main girdle bolts, flywheel bolts Potentially head job, definitely valve stem seals but valve springs are often tired too New water pump, timing belt (obviously), timing idler and tension bearings and stud/bolt (as they can fail with time)

I guess whoever put the turbo on didn't show 100% attention. You either need to plumb that back into the intake so it burns off any blow by, or you need to add a catch can with external breather (noting that is potentially not legal, but may not be the only potentially not legal thing in the engine bay)

Glad to hear you've had a good experience. I'd need a lot more information compared to what the Fuga listing provides, it has a lot of vague statements like (my highlight) Q2. This model will support the steering wheel control,A/C display, factory amplifier, etc? A:Hi, friend, usually all products models will fully support and be compatible with the original car functions, such as STW, A/C, AMP, etc. But if your car is with specially factory functions, such as Optical Fiber Amplifier, BOSE Amplifier, XM satellite radio, factory NAVI, etc, please contact us further I guess if I was going to go this way I'd have to look through what the Xanavi offers, what of that I actually use, and confirm with the seller what is carried over. Certainly I don't use the Navi, I just use my phone, but plugged in Android Auto was a worse experience than just using the handset last I used it, and I only use Bluetooth from the phone for audio so none of the AM/FM/Satellite/Video is important to me either (and Xanavi is annoying dealing with 2 paired phones as I do). Things like Distance to Empty display I use all the time, and Hybrid display at times. AC is displayed but not controlled by the screen in the Fuga. Reverse camera is important too and the factory resolution is terrible so that is a potential improvement.

Does your screen only control audio etc? In the fuga it includes a lot of car settings which I guess you are losing with an aftermarket setup, this is the key reason I went Xanavi Good to see there are more modern alternatives, tech moves a long way in t10 years.

Good on you still pushing a FJ20 hard A 20 year newer turbo is way better, either same power with more response or more power with the same response. They are also more efficient and will produce less heat at higher boost than olden day turbos

Also, the head is totally different between rb25 and rb26 (noting the neo rb25 has a better head than rb26) and the externals like intake manifold, throttle(s) and exhaust/turbos etc are clearly different. There is no chance the shop is trying to pass off a rebuilt rb25 as an rb26

Re rb25 vs rb26....there is not a lot of difference and everything is physically interchangeable with small detail differences. Like Josh said you can make sure the block was originally rb26 by looking for an engine number starting with rb26 (noting that brand new blocks are supplied without numbers so it could start as anything). A better check is rb26 block will have 05U cast into it. The capacity of the engine comes from bore (86.5mm) x crank stroke (73.7mm) which is the biggest difference between 25 and 26 so as long as you get an rb26 crank back in the block it will still be 2.6 litre Re the pistons, you need to ask the shop. Per above there could be a difference in the pin height which affects how far the piston pokes into the head/valves at TDC, but with aftermarket there are lots of combinations of pin height and target compression to consider.

TBH, you either need to trust your machine shop, or not. The real work that goes into the engine is the machining and measuring, not so much the parts which seem like a pretty common list. There would be a bunch of gaskets and seals including the head gasket to add to that list, often a high flow oil pump, and a heap of external stuff like timing belt plus it's tensioner and bearings, hoses, accessory belts and often painting/powder coating the engine covers The "short engine" refers to the block and rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods etc). Here there may be costs for linishing or straightening your crank, particularly if you are getting a rebuild due to a spun bearing, and possibly even tunnel boring depending on the damage. Obviously they've decided you need to go 0.5mm oversize pistons (which is common) and will need them to bore out the cylinders then hone them for the required clearance for those pistons, and they will have to do ring end gaps. The fact they are putting in standard bearings suggests they are OK with the crank, and they may need to deck the block for straightness after checking it. Depending on your goals and the machine shop's knowledge there may be some oil gallery work and/or enlarging the block oil returns The "long engine" is the short engine with the head on. There is nothing in that list for the head so hopefully you are at least having it cleaned and measured, costs there can include closing and honing the cam caps if there is an issue, and often valve springs need replacing due to age or more aggressive cams. Some cams will require them the relieve the head for clearance too. Bottom line, at east 50% of the cost will come from cleaning, measuring, machining and re-measuring. If they do any of that wrong your engine will not last.

By far the most likely is simply tyres. Mid corner understeer (generally) is about total front end grip and Hankook RS4 might be better than average but aren't track tyres. Neither different width track nor different width tyres front to rear would make a noticeable difference. Most cars have different track width from factory anyway. Other than tyres, most likely things you can tune are the amount of roll (spring rates and sway bays) or potentially front camber/caster but in modern cars it just comes down to lots of weight over the front.

which car, your profile and post don't state? I've added a grommet and wiring through for brake pressure sensor next to the ABS which is a similar size to most of those circular connectors in my 32 gtr

I'm really glad to see Nick's car out and about and looking great, where was it?

As per the above, for such a small area a heat gun and gentle use of a scraper will be easier than obtaining and using dry ice.

Does it run to the rear wiper if you follow it? The other option is it could be the drain for the sunroof if you have one

This kind of gets right to the heart of the problem.... my understanding is the R34 diff centre is too large for the R32 sump casing.

It is important you check the ring end gaps before installing. Push each carefully into the bore and check the gap with a feeler gauge. The rings should have the required end gap in the included doco

In my experience, "mechanics" leave stuff loose all the time. At a minimum they should have road tested and noticed all the boost was going missing before giving it back to you.

But, where do you ever come across JIS fasteners? Not in a Nissan thankfully. And those long spanners are nice to use, but they just aren't feasible in most tight locations.

There are clearances listed in the manual for the pins, I've found some tighter and looser in various rebuilds. Either way, lightly tapping them in should be more than enough if you aren't going to check them

Its OK, similar to the Euros which turn on an error light before you get to go fast much, Jeeps will break down before you can go fast enough to hurt yourself.