Duncan

squint

You need to pull the plenum out and paint (or even better powder coat, it lasts much better) If it is scratched on top, wait until you see underneath.... Also, do the top timing cover and cam covers at the same time as the car will be off the road.

Congrats on the win!

It needs to be custom made, top mount manifolds and turbo ranges mean the dump pipe shape will be custom

Original thread is here:

hahaha I don't see many of these any more. It is a Raceworx ATTESSA controller, we sold about 50 of them around 10 years ago. send me your email and I can send the user manual across, also let me know what colour and how many times the light flashes and we can work out if it is still operational or not.

well, I've always figured, your car, your choice! It will have minimum 2x the go compared to a stock L24 so you should notice the difference....

Welcome Bird! What engine is in the car now? BTW, I knew Western Australia was planning to secede, but who would have imagined they would join the US!

Yeah the Z brembos definitely have a different offset for the disc to R/S stuff, but I'm sure JJ could hook you up with the right ones...hell they even had them for my F50 Cima

yeah I always use safety squints when using the press, and have a collection of big sockets and random bits to try and get the parts to sit the way they need to. They are a PITA but still easier than taking every job to a shop I've never used HFM 2 part rotors, but have used both the DBA ones and ATTKD/D2/whatever ones and they have been fine. They never seem to quite deliver on being cheaper at replacement time to just do the ring though

Also, thanks for the massive effort translating this soviet_merlin. I'm not really in a position to up and download GB myself with satellite internet but if you have any idea on how best to host it I'm happy to help.

When you say "picked it up" do you mean it is new to you or it is back from a shop that changed something? The required plumbing is pretty simple, anything else that is open needs to be blocked off. You need a post throttle body pressure source to the boost controller (in this case the Link). There is a nipple on the back of the engine which is suitable, the stock line from there runs to the standard boost gauge sender on the firewall (you would also T to this for any boost gauge/logger etc). It is mentioned but not marked on your first diagram You then need a plenum (pre throttle) boost source which goes to the boost control valve inlet, and then the boost control valve outlet is attached to both wastegates (the green line). An alternative (much shorter) option is to take this source from any point after the 2 turbo outlets merge and run straight to the boost control valve mounted on the passenger side, then back to both wastegates, this can reduce spiking due to the shorter runs There are separate vacuum feeds to the carbon canister, fuel pressure regulator, BOVs, brake/clutch boosters and also PCV, AAC etc, none of them should need to be touched. But any vacuum line that is open to atmosphere needs to be blocked. The "water tube" has separate lines with both water and air so it is a misleading name.

great info, thanks

Excellent detective work...how did you identify that terminal?

RB30 blocks are a great way to go, but before you get too far are you sure there will be clearance at the front of the motor as the block is about 30mm higher? Fitting RB30 in R chassis is pretty well understood but I've not seen one in a Z chassis...

Is this still for sale?

A bit frustrating, but at least you'll have a nice coffee table base now

Personal opinion but I think the days of putting singles on GTRs is over for most people. They have clearly become a classic/collector's car rather than something where you are looking for a very fast daily driver (plus, most of the GTRs with singles live in a garage on stands anyway). A set of old fashioned -7 or -9 twins and keeping the standard intake piping as mush as possible is they appropriate way these days.

That looks like a really dead battery. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage between the battery terminals with the car off? If it is good, I'd be looking for bad earth or main power connections from the battery

Thanks for the note about the oil restrictor, that is an important difference too. Also, it is a good time to change the factory dump pipes to something larger at the same time.

I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add. Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set. That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear. From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses

No I'm sorry, I should have quoted the post I was responding to!

good call...you don't need them often but they are invaluable when you do

They are bolt on, with the exception of the oil drain - adapters are readily available.

I was simply saying that they aren't going to leave your old hoses on and show you some they took off another 33 gtr that had gone through there.