Duncan

Also, is it a standard ECU or aftermarket, and if standard do you have some way to read the consult port?

There are either 1 or 2 blue relays there depending on build date, the first of them turns the ECU on (or off) and the other if present is for the coils. As you have no fuel pressure, no spark that implies no ECU as the next step to look at. But I've jumped well ahead, first you need to check all fuses in next to the battery, and also at the driver's knee. Very possible something important was moved during the work then shorted on your trip home blowing the fuse. Also check all connections are present at the battery

Good rant, will drop by again

Did you start the car when you picked it up, or was it already running. And when you turn the key in the ignition do the red lights come on in the dash (and for bonus question, if you listen near the passenger footwell can you hear a relay turn on when you turn the key to ignition and off about 5 seconds after you turn it back to ACC.

Yeah oil pressure will be a good guide for a bearing issue, but the noise getting worse when reving is a pretty clear indicator of a big end bearing issue. Still, if you think it is front of engine, the top timing cover can be removed and you can still run the engine, so that is worth a try. There are bearings under there for the timing belt idler and tensioner so it is not impossible Either way, the less you run the engine, the less further damage occurs.

Just saving this for future re-quoting. Yeah the airbox with a power override might help. I'm not convinced a naca duct is a better idea than window open a little (or totally) on a hot day, they were more for cars without power windows or even totally fixed windows. (unless of course you are ducting it through an air con direct to your helmet super car style....). Cool suit is awesome if heat is a real problem.

Is the bung in properly (ie not leaking) and /or is the smoke just old coolant coming off the exhaust?

no ignition power

assuming there is no class rule requiring a dash, something simple in the centre console with sheet metal/carbon fibre sheet to hold any required gauges and switches is the go, plus something to mount the dash gauges if you need them. unless you are looking to win auto salon, you don't need to enclose the dash or have anything on the passenger side except the dash support bar or it's roll cage replacement. heating has never really been a problem in our car when you are wearing multi layer flame proof, but cooling is. I'm not sure that a fan would make much difference but if you have a way to keep it an switch just the fan on/off full that could help. We have a heated windscreen for defogging at rallies but at the track that is almost never an issue either; if you are fogging up just let it sit with windows open for a bit before going out and carry a clean rag somewhere. I removed but am replacing the rear demister circuit now because that is impossible to keep clear at rallies when driving between stages

I get wanting to keep the rb if you can, and I don't have any experience with how(if?) rb25de can make 220hp n/a. I assume it is possible with the right intake, exhaust and cams but of course pretty much no-one needs to get power out of these without a turbo so there won't be much experience around. the 25DE NEO head is the best of the range for breathing so it can support the flow you are looking for easily On the other hand, it can absolutely be reliable at that power level, they are designed for at least 50% more power in stock form so everything will is safely oversized like rods, bearings, oil flow etc etc. For oil pump I would still use a large aftermarket one like nitto on an extended crank collar for safety, and you will still need a large oversize sump. Depending on freedoms, you could look into the premade (or custom) adaptors to fit the 6 throttle bodies and plenum from rb26 to the 25 head which might help with throttle response unless the plenum is too large for 220hp Clearly downsides are it is heavy and long compared to more modern alloy v6 or I4 which is not good for corner weights, and no doubt those annoying k-series motors are more readily available there

what kind of father buys their child a Toyota!?!?!

I'm pretty sure you don't want to know what I think it is. Can you confirm the noise is not coming from the front of the motor, eg the alternator, air con etc?

yeah that sucks, I had been lucky for so long until about 3 months ago when skippy changed her mind and came back after I had missed her. At least daughter didn't have to deal with injured skippy. You know what would be a good, bigger replacement for a yaris for rural use? A well looked after Cima. Great value car for the price. https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/nissan-cima-854038. Even comes with awesome plates

well, they'd still be on p1 if my website was up! One day I'll fix that...

Interesting question...if your builder says not to go over 14psi and you go 20psi and it breaks, who pays to rebuild it? Boost isn't really the issue, and you tuner will be the expert for this. Timing is the key thing you can run more of on e85 because the biggest difference between it and pump 98 is resistance to knock Also keep in mind that a bigger turbo flows more air at the same boost, so boost alone is not a good yardstick.

BTW, I was reminded by another thread....and it is a bit unfair to have the old girl at a smash repair for such a milestone.. But, HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY!!! Poor girl could never have imagined what was in store for her future when she rolled off the production line all shiny in limited edition gun metal grey

well, there is a 30 year age difference....report back number of dash warnings when the Euro is 30 years old (or just 1 day after warranty)

well...I did say it wasn't plugged in....

You need to ask your engine builder this question, not the internet, because the internet won't be the people you argue with if it fails. You should also consider that you gauge may be inaccurate, you are best to hook up a mechanical gauge to check it. But yes, it looks low to me at idle and a little low at full revs, even for a factory pump. Most builds would use a higher flowing pump with a 100psi relief spring so they tend to run around 100psi at full noise.

yeah I had a set of seized injectors pissing me off last rebuild too. No e85, just a bit of moisture in the system somewhere along the line

Yeah I went next size up, the style that comes with it's own stand rather than bench mount....fits everything larger I've tried like plenum, engine covers, uprights And yes, Neil convinced me to pull mine apart and put sealing foam in years ago. absolute PITA job but it does seal properly now so I guess it was worth it.

yeah exactly. Neil went one step better when he escaped the big smoke, his only day job now seems to be flogging skyline bits on facebook (when it's up)

Gary is still around but not working in the industry any more. He still does suspension engineering on various race cars including any time I need something looked at (not often these days). I still run his revalved non-adjustable bilsteins in mine and the handling is great.

The race car and rural work is never the problem....problem is the day job that pays for the racecar takes up too much time!

yeah, even with the direct hose the clutch can be a bit of a pain to bleed, but at least it isn't impossible any more. you may need to let it gravity feed for a while to get some pedal feel