Duncan

Like dis? https://justjap.com/collections/silicone-joiners

Hmmm, seems like these things are car of the week....we bought a q50 Red Sport today too (ironically, the one I said a few posts above is probably dodgy ) Goes good for a stocker. Brakes and tyres need doing all round and it is way overdue for an oil change, but it seems good otherwise. It was weird to be able to see (and even drive!) a car before I bought it, most stuff I get 2 or 3 grainy pics and an auction sheet I can't read, followed by a 4 month wait to see what I ended up with

Practical solution...

BTW, level up linking and @-ing, thanks David I actually don't have much to add, except that I have seen electrical gauges "off the scale" due to some sort of mechanical issue that work properly again after freeing up....sounds like that might be what happened here...

Looks neat! Does the cover still fit over everything?

Yes, the speakers are plug and play to replace with something newer and better, as long as they have the same resistance and physically fit where the old ones do, I'd start with replacing them (because you will need to anyway) and if you still have issues will need to look into the wiring/amps/head unit (in decreasing order of likely to have failed). For bluetooth I've used Parrot kits for years, they wire directly into the speaker cables and give you bluetooth phone and music including good quality mic for the phone (I'm almost audible when using the phone over bluetooth in the stagea, which is a miracle). I'm sure there are other brands but quality of the mic varies and it is hard to tell before you install it

6.3-8.3nm....pretty damn light those fine m6 threads in the aluminium retainer plate are very easy to strip

Thanks for updating the outcome; while anywhere in the system could leak, I hadn't heard of a wastegate actuator doing so before, can add that to the list of potentials for next time

-5 is too big for most uses unless you are racing, they are pretty laggy in twins

Group N is a type of limited modification production rally, I agree they ware probably just -5s or similar. You really need the details from the tag on the core to tell, the housings don't tell you much because they can be machined to suit many cores. For checking the compressor, all you need is to see no physical damage. The amount of movement in the shaft (side to side and forward/backward) is what matters

Just checking; you are buying an aftermarket headlight for your V35, and the new headlight comes with a daylight running light that you want to wire in? You have the option of just not wiring the DRL in, and the new headlight will work like the old. If you want the DRL to work you will have to wire it in on the car as it wasn't delivered with one. Best way is to add a Normally Closed or Changeover relay in the car, and wire: 87a to both DRL power wires 30 to a fused ignition power source 86 to earth 85 tap into the power wire that goes to the low beam headlight Note, you cannot use the much more common Normally Open relay for this, you need the DRL to turn off when the headlight is on and vice versa.

That's wheely good

Their name is Cheryl

In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly

Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.

No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm

So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup. As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....

I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)

voila https://justjap.com/products/jsai-aero-nismo-n1-rear-side-skirt-extensions-frp-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

The ATTKD and similar kits are a good thing for street and light track use like Dose is saying. I think they are good value as they replace everything. Rob's suggestion of upgrading standard parts can absolutely work as these cars came with reasonable brakes, you just have to consider how all the parts add up if you end up doing brake lines, caliper rebuild, rotors as well. The problem with the 350z kits are the same....adapters look cheap but then depending on the caliper health you might still end up with having to do all those parts anyway.

Yeah just space it out if you need to, those shock bodies are way bigger than standard. The shock only acts as a shock on r series chassis so its exact location is not important

I don't know the answer with a 34, but for sure the standard bumper location is the limiting factor with a 32, that is where the larger diameter tyres I was trying to run were rubbing (noting I had already rolled the guard lip)

Yeah PAR is all custom cut to order, so you can move the ratios around for what you need

This thread always delivers, thanks again mate

I like that he had presence of mind to hit the kill switch....and even more so that the obligatory dash mat stayed in place (who wants a sun cracked dash!)