Duncan

I often leave mine connected weeks at a time. The main one I use is the old model of this, it has 2 important features - choose battery chemistry other than lead acid (most of mine are AGM) - power supply mode which you can use to try and recover dead flat batteries as "smart" chargers often don't recognise a dead flat battery is connected https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IC10/intellicharge-10a-bat-chgr The Ctek I use was meant to have a battery test mode as well but it doesn't work 100% of the time so I am pissed at them. The distributor did everything possible to make warranty and support difficult so I'll stay away in future. The main thing with a "trickle" charger is it has multi stage programs, ie once the battery is full it turns the current right down to just maintain the charge....in the old days we just used real "trickle" chargers for that which had a maximum output of say 500mA which was safe to just leave connected to dumb old lead batteries.

I don't read the 2nd paragraph the same way, I believe it is defining "modifications" from the previous paragraph, and I'd be happy to have a lawyer argue that in case of an issue.....if they have agreed to it and listed it on the schedule it is covered. Has anyone had them attempt to deny it based on that reading?

I have a projecta one. A proper trickle charger can be left attached 24x7, that's what the trickle bit is about.

Unleash the cheap Gucci bags!

If you do go with drain back, make sure everything is foam or wool filled so it actually does something, and ensure there is a screen somewhere in the drain to catch anything that comes loose from the packing. I don't drain back

No, I don't remember the exact reasoning (was 20 years ago!) but the cops didn't end up supplying it to us either. Actually my mother went through a similar thing recently where she was hit when stationary, flustered and didn't get address (she got plate details, name, phone and insurance company, but not address). Person who hit her blocked her number and their insurance company (naturally) would not provide any details. Her insurance company also required her to pay the at fault premium because she did not have the address, cops did not help as it is a minor civil matter (they said their only course was if the other driver had left the scene of the accident without providing any details). She only ended up getting that refunded because they happened to be insured with Suncorp and she was with APIA so same company owners. For some reason the address is critical in insurance companies recovering money from the at fault party

Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past

I like that you made it gender neutral.

Well, that's why I left Shannons. First they made us pay the excess after a taxi hit the z when it was parked. We supplied the rego and police report, they didn't feel any responsibility to find the owner and would not pay for the repair until we paid the excess. Then our house (insured with Shannons) was broken into, and the safe containing spare keys for 9 cars was stolen. Shannons tried to tell us that as well as the house excess we had to pay the excess for each car to key them rekeyed (ie almost $10k in excesses for one theft event). They backed down on that after we went through the ombudsman but we left them after that.

Indeed, it is much easier to get at the filter with the engine on a stand

I didn't mis-type

Really good point about checking fuses - a test light is not reliable because you might get the voltage from the wrong side of the fuse (my guess is some diode has failed somewhere). You need to check both test tabs of the fuse for continuity. With the fuel pressure mis match, I wouldn't touch it. The car was tuned with the incorrect setting so changing it is more likely to cause a problem (lean out in this case). If/when the car is next tuned get it fixed then. Thanks for the update, it is always good to add to the knowledge base

No, none of our classes allow E85, and yes I check it regularly (every engine change) and there has been no deterioration, just a bit of discolouration

That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.

I had the same previously, and it really shits me. They just run off red book averages or whatever as the maximum insured, there are never good quality cars available to buy for anywhere near those prices. I don't even understand why they do it. Sure having a customer overinsure then false claim is a risk, but how often does that really happen in the world, 1%? 0.1%? On the other hand, all 10-20% above redbook listed prices and charge 10-20% higher premium, surely that is more profitable for those cockroaches

It's fine. Basically if it has seized (eg due to moisture/rust in the bores) it will either break free on the starter or it won't turn....then you'll know it is freed up If it turns and doesn't start (reasonably likely) you will need to troubleshoot but most likely issue is a seized injector from moisture; same if it starts but missfires. Anything else could have happened (eg mice nibbling electricals) but the only way to find out is to close your eyes and hit the key I'd also change the fuel filter again after a few minutes of running as it may catch a heap of crap on first start

You've put new fuel in, you'll need a healthy new battery too then just send it. Even the brakes won't be an issue, the surface rust wipes off straight away.

Sorry to say, I think that is a pretty long shot on this forum.....

sorry, "info" from Lumley here: https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/about-nrma-insurance

So it looks like Lumleys are closing other than in Victoria, with the kind offer that another brand from the evil IAG multi-glomerate (NRMA) might offer insurance under their price and conditions if they want to, as an alternative. Lunmleys was good for us because they covered JDM and USDM imports, had 2 car "stable" insurance (ie, insure many cars but max of 2 can be driven at once), covered mods, reasonable overall prices. So, with them gone, who else should I consider? Shannons is last on my list, we used to be insured with them until we found they were helpful at taking premiums but much less helpful at claim time.

Brake Fluid testers are cheap and readily available....eg https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/endeavour-brake-fluid-tester-rechargeable/SPO9539349.html

I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/

Good work Pete and glad the car held up well....been a while since I've seen you try properly

Just quick update, I've had tech issues and so a backlog on life stuff....I will pull lap times from the video and data from the ECU logs to do a proper update. But basically, in order of importance: 1. The car was excellent fun on the track, really felt a lot like the good old days. And nice to have AC while waiting 2. Coolant got really hot; again I need to pull and analyse the logs but the standard system is not up to tracking at 30o+ days, once the system was heat soaked after the first 2x15min sessions I could only do 3 laps before it got 110+ and I had to cool down. If I can't improve that it is a deal breaker 3 Oil temps were fine all day, noting it was short sessions due to 2. I think it will likely need work 4 Biggest surprise AT temps were fine, never went over 100, I would have been OK with 120 before I was too concerned. The auto sucks compared to a manual (of course) but it is faster to launch and I just need to downshift it manually before hitting the throttle, then it was OK. When I post the vids you'll hear it telling me off (beeping) for trying to downshift too early (it needs about 3500 before it will downshift, depending on gear a little but we are mostly talking 3/2 and 4/3) 5 A052s were not great which hurt the lap times, but I will be constrained in what I can get in good tyres that fit the wheel wells. These were small for a heavy car at 235/45/18. In theory I can fit 9.5 on front and 10.5 rear (so not square) but I still need 670mm+ high tyres in good brands. 6 Standard shocks/springs/roll bar are too soft for track work (of course), but that was always on the list. And happily, no white on the mat, despite having a teenaged passenger, extinguisher mount was fine. Also, it was nice to have Wakefield Park back in action . Because the car was so quiet it is eligible for Green Day, which I thought was a band but is apparently a series of cheaper practice days they run with a lower sound limit, that is a smart idea.

Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother