Duncan

to be fair, if I had a prius I'd eye off skylines too.

Welcome to SAU, great to see you have a nice car along with the german ones. Any pics?

Yep, there's a reason there is no videos showing it. It might not be impossible but taking the engine out is far easier. You need the subframe off which means brakes etc off too, gearbox off (because the rear main seal to sump bolts are in the bellhousing), driveshaft out etc. Plus when you reseal it you need a good bead of silicone lined up correctly for bolting after dodging the oil pickup Plus, depending on why you are doing it, if you find a problem inside the engine it still has to come out to be fixed. If you are just fitting an extended sump or changing the oil pump relief spring you might want to consider a better oil pump at the same time depending on why you are changing it which is also engine out.

Just do it up VFT, check with your torque wrench that it is off the scale, then drive to your mechanic. Most people doing up these bolts don't have a 446nm torque wrench

no, the import approval is federal, not state. there is a general link here to contact them and ask for a copy: https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/infrastructure-transport-vehicles/vehicles/rvs/contact-us I emailed them at [email protected] but that was a couple of years back, not sure if it is still active

You should be able to get a copy of the paoers by contacting Barnaby's department. They will need the VIN. i'm not sure how you prove to them you own it, I've only requested papers for a car I imported before. Otherwise it should be the usual blue slip process, you will need a weighbridge ticket too. No idea if the defect sticks or if a new blueslip covers that off.

If you turn the pic upside down it says BOOBS

Just take it for an AC service. They will gas, pressure test and can include a dye incase it is leaking (likely). If none of that works the compressor could be stuffed which can be tricky to find a replacement

When I first need to buy tyres for a new car, I just put the correct size on to get an accurate speedo. It generally is a fair bit taller than factory which also helps with ride quality and ground clearance. I used one of those jaycar adjusters on the stagea for a while, but ultimately getting correcting it with tyre size is simple and reliable

Welcome, you must be pretty patient to wait at least a year for the car. What is the hold up?

It's OK, you don't. You buy a set of ACL aftermarket oversize bearings and machine the crank to suit if you can't just use standard size bearings. The Nissan 1/2/3 grading was for very small variations on a new crank, it is not worth worrying about these days for an un-machined, second hand crank with a few klm on it.

Most likely the only issue it has is how the test was done, those results are fine. You need plugs out, wide open throttle and well charged battery probably with a booster pack when you do every cylinder. Even then 9.2% variance is not an issue

sounds like a very sensible choice for that category....keep us updated on how you go

if it didn't stop in or shortly after, it is fine.

Have you disconnected HICAS somehow?

I think you've changed the spark plugs, coil packs and coil pack loom so far? Which coil packs did you install? Can you swap the best of your original coil packs in one by one and see if you can identify one of the new ones is not OK? Also, what plugs did you install? Also, you've mentioned it has a miss at idle. How does it run for normal driving and at full throttle, is it smooth or does it still break down? I'm assuming the issue is on the spark side since that is what you got from the ECU....but of course it could still turn out to be a fuel or timing issue

Good point, thanks. Pretty sure I can get fuel economy on the centre screen too, I usually just have it on battery level so I don't think about the others.

Glad you sorted it, because now I have a question (the Fuga has the same or similar) Graphs are kind of crap for accuracy....do you know any way to get an actual number for average economy from either that page or the status? Both just show a bar with somewhere between 12 and 15klm per l in the Fuga which is not particularly accurate...

If you have a standard balancer and the ATI one you can calculate the % underdriven by comparing the diameter of both. If not, I believe the only difference between standard 32 and 33 pulleys are the number of ribs for the belt, so you can measure off a 32 one as well.

Got a picture of the calipers? Also, knowing the diameter of the discs will help too.

And, a wheel alignment should at least tell you if there is a problem or not. It is possible what you are seeing is normal... Just make sure they check toe, camber and caster, and give you a copy of the before and after results.

How did you come to know the ECU is faulty? In any case, with a new ECU you will need to program the keys for it to start. I don't know the procedure but hopefully it is posted up somewhere.

For a dealership and the amount of work involved, I think that is quite reasonable. It will be about half the price at a good mechanic with import experience because: they will charge much less per hour, they may have done the job before (nissan won't have) and they can choose to use non-genuine parts where it won't make a difference. As for time, it will be a day or 2 + lead time for any parts they didn't realise they need which will be 4-6 weeks. So again, someone with experience is the go.

On the firewall there will be a japanese build plate with a number something like WGNC34-xxxxxx. You can put that into a VIN search like here and find the factory spec of the car - https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h And I understand about Stageas....I bought an auto, turbo one about 15 years ago. It is now manual, has mostly GTR running gear under it and makes about 400awkw from a 3l engine and largish turbo. Still pretty low key car externally though.

yeah those are have a crappy lock too, but I meant these ones Same pins and similar body to what you have but the red piece does the locking and is brittle. PITA. Deutsch is the ones when you have a choice, even their big multi pin connectors are great to work with. Expensive tho.