Duncan

That is what the bishop said to the actress. Or, just the physical distinction between rb25 and rb20 boxes which have smaller/weaker gears

actually I need to ring the panel shop and see how bad the news is....last i heard they thought a boot floor and beaver (hehehe) panel were required... I do have a little wiring for the demister and rain light, and to assemble the new engine, but I did the weed spraying instead

more complete (well, accurate) version of that story https://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=3691

well, when whiteline sold their swaybar factory and moved manufacturing offshore, Gary (sydneykid) bought that business and equipment and was running it as Selby's, but that didn't work out. I am not sure if they still operate under that or a different name, the factory was around Minto NSW. a quick search found these guys who were apparently the original Selby's and are still manufacturing in Nowra NSW. https://www.signatureswaybars.com.au/ I have not used either business under current ownership

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

Not plugging it in ......there's your problem!

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power. I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

great to hear it is running well, isn't it a great feeling when everything is behaving! also, good on Autopro, Raceworks and Penrite for giving you a hand

yes sorry, I don't have more specific advice, just an observation about the current market.

So I was only selling these as a set, but the guy who bought 4 and organised "someone else" to buy the other two let me down so I still have 2 only of these wheels. Perfect period wheel for a GTR, $1000 for the pair, sorry no donations

yeah they rust in pretty well over the years. Do you have access to get a blow torch onto it without burning the car down?

Don't listen to those guys. Get it the US ASAP, should be worth a heap there.

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on? Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

Thanks on behalf over everyone who will use these but never consider that someone put in the time to do them These copies are definitely much better than the ones in the pdf I do actually have the original originals that I could scan too, but as you described I don't really know the best way to deal with the very wide fold out pages. If anyone has suggestions on a way to get a better outcome let me know and I can give it a go.

Where does the black line from the bottom of the 2nd t piece go?

nice, that should get you to the shops on time

Welsh plugs should be OK, they only go to the water galleries and they don't have to be spec free like oil galleries. Yes, I'd pressure wash it, dry with compressed air or leave overnight, then wipe bores clean with clean rag with light oil or wd40

Yep, so the reason I asked that is vacuum and pressure bleed can be more reliable, manual bleed you can make errors (eg allowing pedal to retract before bleeder is closed, or not using hose to ensure only fluid gets pulled back in, or simply not flushing enough fluid through to clear out all bubbles because it is such a painful process......)

I think that does help; there is a high point in the "to 4 way" line which is above the master cylinder fluid level; it is possible you have air trapped there no matter how well you bleed it. Can you re-bend/re-route so that no brake line is higher than the master cylinder fluid level? Also, how are you bleeding; manual with a person pumping a pedal and another opening a bleeder into a (hopefully clear) hose, or vacuum bleeding at each nipple, or pressure bleeding from the master cylinder. At least having no ABS removes that issue as you can get air trapped there too because valves cycle when the ABS actuates.

I don't see how an issue with a variable pedal could possibly be due to not having a brake booster. Basically the booster adds assistance to make the pedal lighter (when the engine is running and making vacuum). Without a booster it should either be just right, too hard or too soft at all times depending on the master cylinder bore size and where the pivot is on the brake pedal (pedal ratio) What you are describing sounds like there is still air in the system somewhere; when you first press the pedal the air compresses which is why the pedal is soft and on subsequent presses because the air is already compressed you get the proper hard pedal feel as the wheel cylinders move. Do you have a pic of the changes you made around the master cylinder (or elsewhere like abs?) and how are you doing the bleeding?

Original link updated, thanks for both the new link and your original work!

Sorry, I can't help this time, my car is at the shop having the tree shaped hole removed from the rear quarter panel.... Re the diagrams, I actually have something rarer than rocking horse poo, an original printed copy of the australian workshop manual. The scan that is floating around online is super useful 99% of the time but the detail in the wiring pages aren't really legible so I dust off those pages when required. One day I'll work out how to get high res scans of the pages...

No point? That is a good electrician joke.

Not many of those around, haven't heard of one in ages. there was a thread back here from 06/07 where about 7 of them were identified in Aus. It looks R31 House in Japan used to make a FFP for them, but I'm not sure if they are still around, their agent in Australia, Powerplay Imports, are long gone. http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/03/fairlady-200zr-the-last-straight-six-z-car/

I'm not really sure about the "fast and wobbly" to 60klm/h bit, but many nissans are calibrated from factory to read 10% high, primarily to piss off everybody that ever needs to drive near or at the speed limit. So I suspect reading 90 at 80 and 122 at 100 are perfectly normal. There are different speedo drives for different diff ratios (eg, GTS4 was 10% shorter and so are automatics I think), so that is one option if it bugs you too much