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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. They are all 13mm apart from the transfer case filler plug which is 11mm. I also use a 13mm square drive rather than 1/2 inch. 13mm square is hard to find as single drivers though.
  2. f**k me they are some long bolts
  3. Personal experience for me, I did all the race car bushes in Noltec and 3 seasons later they were all crumbling like that pic you posted....
  4. I would not use them. Generally, Notlec bushes were great when new, but they disintegrate over time. Even if those were OK now, once you start putting them under pressure at that age they will just crumble. Worse, there is a reason people stopped using that arm design. It is too easy for the adjusting bolts to come loose leaving you with some excitement when they slip.
  5. Any reason you are after those in particular? There are easier and cheaper ways to get larger brakes on skyline chassis these days, and in most cases the standard system is more than adequate with the right pads and rotors
  6. Any hint on which country?
  7. that is im-press-ive HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH I kill me. BTW consider clearance behind when you bolt the press down; lots of weird shaped parts need clearance front and back to fit properly and I fixed mine too close to the wall behind in the old place.
  8. I hope they have something, I've only seen bullbar kits for 34s in the past.
  9. nice racks!
  10. Fair enough....don't worry fuel line is pretty forgiving so just go for the cut to length option. It is all a standard ID and hte hose clamp will make up for any OD variation
  11. I'm torn by your question. It sounds like you want to retain 100% purity, so how can you put a part from the wrong series on it? The more common choice would be any 8mm EFI fuel line for all those parts
  12. You have the most amazing imagination....it is not possible for all these things to happen to 1 person
  13. You've got PM!
  14. well, you have done the world a great service then! I actually have the original hard copy too picked up a copy I saw a few years back like a seagull on a hot chip, I only really use it for tracing wiring as the scan it not really legible for a lot of the detail
  15. Good on them....massive job.....buy, buy, buy and give them a small payback for the huge effort they have put in.
  16. As far as I know, the only JPNZ R33 manual is about 500 pages and engine only. Given that JPNZ went to the effort of scanning, translating and collating all those pages, I'd encourage anyone who needs it to pay the small amount for the trouble it can save you. I have not seen a scanned full copy of an original japanese R33 manual, although I do have the W34 Stagea one.
  17. Don't be afraid to use the lower end of that range for those tapered plugs. They have an amazing ability to self tighten over time and I have never seen one of them leak from being undertightened.
  18. Wwhich should make for a nice drive around both Phillip Island and Sandown. 300kw will probably lead to traction issues at tighter tracks like Winton so big rear tyres, good 1.5 way diff centre etc will help. Larger brakes for the front will help with longer runs too Once you get near 400kw and over stuff starts breaking and getting very expensive to fix and run.
  19. OK, so this is the DS power window plug (both sides) This is the page from the wiring diagram with wire colours Also, if you are looking for the I have the AC plugs and don't need them, it was easiest to just cut the plugs in the car I stole them from (or maybe just because racecar) Wiring for the AC plugs if you need it
  20. Are you looking to source and wire in the plugs? I probably have the AC plugs from the race car if you know what they look like
  21. meh, the gtr or an evo9 does 1.06 there with just tyres too, and they are 30 years old....
  22. I've got to be honest, I don't really understand what you are describing...if the car drives smoothly and does not stall when you let off the throttle I would not be concerned
  23. yeah the trick is, when you put the fittings back in the fuse box, there is a bus bar between those 2 terminals and a whole heap of other places....
  24. I'm pretty sure that also feeds the starter motor, and everything else that takes power from the fuse box in the front. Any particular reason you want to remove it?
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