Duncan

yeah those are have a crappy lock too, but I meant these ones Same pins and similar body to what you have but the red piece does the locking and is brittle. PITA. Deutsch is the ones when you have a choice, even their big multi pin connectors are great to work with. Expensive tho.

Actually, be really careful with depinning those AMP connectors....I find them an absolute arsehole to work with. The tabs on the locking cap break easily then you are left with a connector that is almost impossible to seat back in properly locked. I ended up buy 2 new ones out of the US (Haltech would not supply) for a fortune. Also, they are very fiddly with seating the pins at the right depth, initially is OK but if you repin something you have to make sure every wire is still seated properly as they can back out. Pretty much every other style of connector I've worked with is easier, except for those POS pull through ones like in the pressure senders. *edit* cancel the locking clip rant, that is a different type of AMP lock they used on the smartwire. The one in your pic looks much better (maybe they redesigned after issues)

Man even I had to google Bunbury, my knowledge ends at Mandurah Anyway, pistons/rings, rods, bearings + gasket kits, timing belts etc are all readily available in a range of prices. I use Justjap.com but there are many other choices too. I'm sure others here can recommend. Machining can be done at any competent engine shop and there are no real tricks required inside a non-turbo, standard motor (noting you could take the opportunity to turbo it because Stageas can really do with a bit more oomph, but it will triple your cost by the time you add computer, injectors, exhaust manifold etc). If you do a rebuild, make sure you at least inspect and possibly replace the oil pump, and replace the water pump, timing belt and timing belt idler and tensions bearings and the bolt and stud that hold those on. But the reason I asked is that the failure you described is very unusual, particularly in what I am guessing is a non-turbo, unmodified engine. Assuming it is internal it will be interesting to learn what failed.

Yeah I used to run the trust sump on the race car but you just cant have anything below the cross member for race/rally use. I hit it so hard on the curbs at Oran Park that I knocked the sump plug out and cracked it in multiple places. I also use the high octane one now and even in the recent off road excursion there was no damage to the sump

I'm not surprised it wouldn't show up on a map, Adelaide's more like a country town than a city anyway I sorted the details in your earlier post but can't do much about your signon name, there are about 100 Mals here already. As you can see some people do use their real names for signon anyway. Re your engine....if you are certain it is the engine knocking with revs not an accessory on the front eg power steering, I'm not sure I'd do a compression test next. If it is stuffed, the more it rotates the more expensive it gets to fix. I think it is time to pull it out and work out what happened. BTW movies taught me mustangs are meant to have RB26 under the bonnet, you better get onto that swap.

Apexi PowerFC is much cheaper than haltech or link and is plug and play, and has a display/handcontroller that allows monitoring and changing tune without a laptop. It has more than enough functions to run mild to medium modified street cars. However, the cost of tuning the an ECU your tuner is not familiar with will likely be more than you save on the ECU purchase price, so check first

I don't think most cars need an upgrade over the standard ignition system, if it is in good working order it can handle a pretty wide power range. Of course if you are running significant boost (say 20psi+) you might need stronger spark than the factory system In my experience the splitfires are as good as OEM but a fraction of the price, that's what I run in the race car. Otherwise there are other aftermarket coil pack makers but since quality has varied over the years it is a bit of a lottery, I stay clear

Right, so higher than standard boost on standard ecu is probably pushing things. Are you in summer or winter (no location on your profile), in winter the cooler air can cause problems too. I'd say most likely it is a spark breakdown problem. Go with the steps above (check wiring connections, coil packs for signs of failure and new plugs with 0.8mm gaps) as first steps

That is a pretty good description of a misfire, they most commonly happen as you come onto full boost. What mods does the car have and what boost does it run? The best place to start it for a spark problem is the coil packs; check each connector to the wiring loom is tight/seated properly, then remove them and check each one for cracks or scorch marks that might show a short, then remove/check/replace the spark plugs too (you could gap the plugs done to 0.8mm if everything else looked good). For a fuel problem start by changing the filter, also could be the pump itself dying.

Pretty much every r32 dash in existence has bubbles like that. You either need to fluke a good second hand one (almost impossible), or re-cover or flock it.

Do you have a pic of what you are after?

Just Jap would still be willing to have a look for one and bring it in for you. You have to expect there is a reason everyone else has given up though, and it's not because people stopped wanting them...

OK, so I'm not certain if VQ37 is the same, but with RB blocks they are sold by Nissan without an engine number (you are meant to stamp it with the same engine number for the block you are replacing). So, it may be that your block has been replaced for some reason and was not stamped before it was installed. You would have the correct engine number on your current rego, so if you end up stuck that number can be stamped on the engine you have.

In the meantime, if you need to drive, the wiring plug is probably identical (r32 clutch and brake switch are), so just move the wiring across to the working switch

I have not looked for an engine number on one of these, but the location in the pic will be easiest to access from underneath, while up on a hoist.

So, I don't know the R33 GTST flashes. However, I had as similar issue for the drivers side seat airbag in the cima, ultimately I unplugged it and put an appropriately sized resistor between the 2 wires on the car side to turn the light out. I can't remember the resistor size and it varies between models, but I just used a variable resistor (pot) to find the right one to put in. That would get you an airbag steering wheel but no airbag warning light

you just need to run a piece of string around the belt path then measure it to determine the belt part #

Given that you've looked for other excess and have the sump off, I would put it back on without excessive sealant and never think about it again

Thanks for (re)sharing all the details. I've lost multiple engines due to oil pressure issues and am always interested in what we can all do to avoid it. I don't mean this as finger pointing, but the fact it was apart and re-assembled says most likely the issue was something in that process either missing/wrong/dirty because we know when it is all good engines don't fail with such light use. I think that is more likely than the sump simply being emptied by the oil pump, particularly when no g forces were involved and you've done key things like enlarged head oil returns in the block. If the head had enough oil in it to empty a 5l sump it would have been spitting oil out the breathers like crazy

Better move quick then, only 11 days left!

Thanks, I'll talk to Just Jap about the JSAI stuff. In this case i am looking for OK/not crap but I don't really need it to be good because it is kind of sacrificial. And thanks for the offer on something made properly like you said I assume the freight would be a killer, same possibly even worse for guards with their shape

Can you remind us history of the bottom end, was it stock (with nitto pump) or had it been rebuilt (in which case there are potential issues with clearances, oil gallery plugs, crank oil passage cleanliness etc) Was everything OK until high rev, high load runs on the dyno? Is the head and returns all stock too? There is an old thread out there on engine failures which was a helpful place to store learnings

Since 32 GTR front end parts are not on Nissan heritage yet and genuine second hand are going for drug money as a result, I'm looking into fibreglass, but OEM style, guards and bonnet for the rally car Any suggestions on suppliers with reasonable quality, preferably NSW/ACT?

I don't have a car handy to swing around under, but definitely if the stop is missing/damaged or the switch is mis adjusted, the brake lights stay on rather than off. I've had to replace the rubber piece in 2 cars now for this reason (our old navara worked the same way)

Welcome to the forums!