Duncan

You really need to start with some basic checks with a multimeter, that will tell you if power is getting to the switch and from the switch....there are too many places for this to fail after 30 years without knowing that

I'm not one to ask for burnout vids, but you could at least put steelies on the back to complete the look

Unfortunately I don't have clear pictures, and this is for an RB26, but this is all of the oil and water plugs in the block according to FAST Every shop will clean a block differently and some may put none (or worse some) of the plugs back. The welsh plugs are pretty obvious if they are missing, although there is a trickier one in the back of the head above where oil drains are often attached. Checking the one under the oil filter housing requires removal of the filter mount and I think there are some differences for rb30 with how the filter mounts. The RB30 I have in the stagea has a stagea oil filter mount so I'm not sure of the standard setup.

I rewired about 60% of my GTR when I put the haltech and smartwire PDM in. I did remove a fair bit but it is amazing how much you still need for a road legal car (lights, windows, main power distribution/battery etc). I know the S13/SR is a lot simpler but there is still a hell of a lot to it. I enjoyed the process and learning but I don't think the outcome is any better than a new factory or premade loom. And buying must be a lot cheaper once you consider off off costs like specialist tools, connectors, I used milspec wire, needed a labeller, specialist heatshrink, etc etc all adds up.

I doubt all of your problems will be solved with new harness(es), might be issues with switches and modules too. In any case, if you post up your vin we can look up the dash and rear harness part numbers

Sorry no pic, I moved mine to the wheel arch above the BOVs when I added a separate thermostat to the system. It is easiest to see the spot from underneath, so, first jack up you car... But that location you've circled is about right, just attach it the remote mount to the side of the chassis rail. The idea by having it low is that you are down there anyway to drain the oil, and mounting it upside-down low in the engine bay lets the oil that will inevitably come out during an oil change be caught in a pan instead of going all over your engine bay, or in the case of the standard location, all over the front diff to then dribble out over the next 5000klm as you drive around. All of those high mount kits like the greddy one that are designed to go near the fuse box put the filter in a location that is easy to access, but pretty much guarantees messy oil changes.

Are you running the standard ECU? I think you will blow up the engine, probably before I have had a chance to push "Submit Reply" If the mods you said above are the whole list, you need an ECU, almost certainly injectors, maybe a different air flow meter for it to run properly

There is a convenient space on the chassis rail just in front of the front diff where you can mount the filter upside down for ease of oil changes, nice and close to the sump plug too.

Stock rods are fine at 260-300awkw, I run a little over that in the race car and have never had a hint of a rod issue

I don't have a block handy, but I expect it is access to an oil gallery for cleaning, and therefore needs to be plugged again after machining and cleaning. There is no external feed there. Also, be aware there are other plugs that have probably been removed during cleaning, in particular the one under the oil filter housing that will allow all the oil to drop back to the sump if it is missing....

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars) The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

324s will be enough for sure, if you have troubles just move to more aggressive pads. I've only ever run 324 on the GTR.

Yeah the throttle position is a reasonable indicator of gear shift speed. Not saying that is the only potential cause, the could be a bent selector or some other weird gearbox magic...that's why a gearbox shop should look at it. Back when we did have an excellent skyline gearbox specialist in Sydney, they recommended high quality mineral oil for new gearboxes and diffs, changed regularly, rather than synthetics because the synthetics tended to have more modifiers which can glaze the gears.

almost totally off topic, but Mobility Engineering are the guys that complied my Cima a few years back...so at least they should know what a Stagea is

I think you need to pull the box and have a specialist for a view about what happened. I race a 32 GTR and have never had a problem with the synchros, using redline lightweight oil. I have swapped or rebuilt the box every 2-3 years as a precaution. On the other hand, Mark that I used to race with killed his synchros every year or 2. I'm pretty sure the difference was I shift slower and rev match better (good for box, bad for last tenths in lap time). If you have a data logger you should be able to tell from your TPS log how fast you shift. In the end synchros only have the time you give them between gears to work before forcing them. The slipperiness of the oil would be a factor but the time is the important part. If you need to change gears faster reliably you need dogs, not synchros. Of course, it could be anything else, like an initial assembly error too....that's why I'd get the box checked.

Also keep in mind the issue could be in the climate control display or the wiring between the 2, not just the module

It could be something optional as looms were probably shared across R33 models, eg a in glove box mini disc player or something. If nothing was plugged in before you pulled the dash, no need to worry

yeah I'd be on a skyline with this engine and manual quick smart if it was on offer...

Not to mention the quality of the compressor housing casting. But I am pretty sure the turbo speed sensor relates to direct electronic wastegate control which is a very logical step ahead (and already in production on the skyline version). Wastegates were about the only thing left in a modern car that was pneumatic instead of electric

The one I ended up with is "Base Grade" which ironically is not the lowest spec... I used this link to check specs for VINs when cars came up at auction, but because I wanted white and sunroof (super rare combo) and reasonable quality/price compromise, I just took what I could get spec wise. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan It confirmed mine had SAFETY PACKAGE; COLD AREA; PURE DRIVE EMBLEM; SUNROOF; LEATHER PACKAGE,BASE GRADE; PASSENGER SEAT CONTROL SWITCH; TRUNK AUTO CLOSURE; 2013 YEAR MODEL which was correct when it arrived 6 months later. The only thing I was looking for (not mandatory) that I didn't get was the Bose audio instead of basic but it is still good to my crappy ears. The VIP level has awesome toys but the reality is I never use the back seat except for the dogs, so I didn't worry too much

Yeah assuming you see a pair of cut wires, just rejoin them. If you are not confident a mechanic or auto elec could do it or alternatively buy some connectors, crimpers and wire strippers or side cutters to learn a new skill https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-crimping-tool-kit---151-pieces/562987.html?cgid=SCA01060604

Yeah I like.....possible new rally car since it would be much cheaper to crash that the 32 GTR.....

seals were removed and not replaced on mine before power coating, no real issue since they don't exactly seal 100% in any case. also, keep in mind plastic parts can't be powder coated because melt and some timing belt covers (R34?) were plastic.

Good choice, I've had a few good head jobs and have always found them worth every cent, and way better than trying to do it yourself.

Don't overthink it at this stage. Just check against what you remove and pay attention to sizing when you refit. The kits can be very comprehensive and you may well have parts left over. My guess is C is the sump plug washer and D the oil strainer o ring, but like I said, check against what you take off. A and B are probably turbo water and oil banjo bolts respectively. The front crank and cam seals are identical so you will have 3 of those the same. The large seal is the rear main seal for the crank.