Duncan

I've got a Hardrace rear inner lower control arm bush and a Just Jap sump baffle?

Not in our experience. In our current place we need to optimise for morning sun in winter (heater) and afternoon (AC) in summer. Pretty much all year round in the middle of the day to mid afternoon the battery is full and we are getting 5c to export which is a waste of time

Definitely write it off. In an unrelated point, I'll give you $20 each for the tail lights, boot and rear bumper

plus interest of course

dammit, I was going to get by this weekend, I swear.

What is your Vin number?

Damn straight....the machine shop should do it but I always treat it as though they haven't.... Just one thing to add to the approach above. When you put the head on, the crank should be at (or just before) TDC, and the cams should also be set for TDC. You can determine that from the pin on the front of the cams or if necessary just put the cams gears on temporarily. Once the backing plates / timing covers are in place it is then ready for timing belt straight away

I totally agree, I think an OBD display is a good thing to keep an eye on "stuff". I run an informeter in the fuga, to the left of the factory screen I run one in the Titan too, and in that case I added a trans temp sensor in the line to the oil cooler to understand how that is going when towing on hot days in addition to the built in data. In the stagea I run a gaugeART to the Link, it fun to watch the whoosh appear.

When you say ""not a puff" do you mean it cranks but doesn't try to fire? I'd be checking the ECU has power, since it is back to stock can you plug a consult in to check? Or even just listen for the ECCS relay clicking in the passenger footwell as a start.

Looks legit, not sure why it wouldn't be, they were extremely common. Historically a dash's value was determined by the klm it showed, not nissan vs nismo (nismo one is less practical as the increments are twice as close together = twice as hard to read). These days Americans want them, so probably put it up for sale at 2,500 firm + postage.

It's caster that makes the issue with the upper arm geometry more obvious and flogs out the bushes sooner. Even for race use I ended up backing out some caster to stop having to replace upper bushes every event

Looks good, I've got the same insulation in the garage (sans tape) and it is the warmest building on the property. I've resisted putting a wood burner in the work shed because it is kind of a statement that I'd rather spend hours out there at night than back in the house...they are excellent/cheap but not quick to get up to temp....instead I just freeze my arse off all day and slink back into the house before it gets too cold at night

Turns out most of Sydney can't go to a shop at the moment either.

120mm for a standard r32 gtr or gtst power steer pulley.

no, no issues. you aren't really running 2 pumps when they are lift + main, and you aren't intending to use the stock wiring so no issue there either. It will circulate way more fuel than you need so the fuel may get warm, but it's not a motorsport application so you will never notice.

It's hard to advise what you should/could do without knowing your plans/power targets.

you're wrong on this one GTSBoy, 350z sounds awesome, particularly with a pod.

My understanding is the subframe and for that matter strut area, is totally different between 2wd and 4wd so I don't think this will help you.

right, so the issue is ability to get response/ area under the power curve from the engine, not peak power then? it does sounds like some sort of engine swap for more capacity or efficiency will be required to sort that unfortunately. The easiest path with that chassis is a larger capacity bottom end from another RB, RB30 is a potential or possibly RD28 (although that is much heavier). Bit trickier, perhaps VK45DD or DE from Q45 would be a good choice for torque and economy while still easily making the target power, it appears it can fit OK. Will need a bellhousing to suit and gearbox that ca take the torque. Or something VQ35/7xx would get you there too.

Welcome Erling, it sounds like your car has been on quite an unusual journey. Also, a thrust bearing failure is not a common issue; do you know if there was any contributing factor?

A couple of issues too The bluetooth sucks. It works fine, but you have to pair phone and audio separately, and it does not switch automatically between paired phones. So, if Kel has been driving and I jump in, I need to connect my phone for both phone and audio through the menus. I guess it was cutting edge in 2013 but today its a pain Also (to my surprise!) the mid undertray is not positively affixed at the front. It is designed with 2 tabs that sit on the cross member, and 2 bolts at the rear. In theory that is all fine and it hasn't come out at speed, but I crossed the weir on the road home last week with about 250mm of water in it, the water got above the undertray and pulled it down, leaving me rolling around under the car on a cold dark night to try and free it up. I will replace it but I'll work out a way to hold the front in place better (and remember that the Fuga can't go where the Titan can!) In other unfortunate news, a youngish skippy made a bad life choice when I was driving out the other day. I did miss him the first time, but when he saw armco on the other side he turned around and came back. Skippy didn't make it and I have a new front bar coming overnight from japan (ok, 12 weeks by sea...). I've been lucky over the years down here, that is the first one I have hit.

So, a couple of updates on the Fuga after 3 months' of driving. Firstly, it has very much grown on me. The drivability around the hybrid features are a bit weird at first, but once you accept/ignore what it's actually doing instead of paying attention/thinking it through all the time, it works fine. Fuel economy has been great for a full size sedan at about 15klm/litre (6.7l/100klm). A couple of features I hadn't noticed initially but are good - the seatbelt has auto retraction which sounds minor or like you never needed it, but in practice it means it always holds properly when you sit down, and pulls out of the way cleanly which is nice. Also, the headlights steer with the front wheels, I didn't really notice at first but as I've been doing more country road at night driving this time of year, it does make a difference. One other unexpected plus, the hybrid works really well for a common use of the car for me. I spend a lot of time travelling to and between clients, and that often means I am working or taking a meeting in the car. With the hybrid you can leave the car on with AC etc running, and the petrol engine is off most of the time which makes it a much more pleasant work environment (often with the Cima on a hot day I'd have to leave it idling for long stretches to keep the interior cool and outside noise out while on meetings)

Front running Early modern cars are outright win fast, R35 GTR or Liam's R33 for instance Targa changed the rules so the overall winner is declared from GT2, rather than being the fastest car home, because the EM cars were threatening wins

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug. Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be Where are you (location on profile would help)?