Duncan

definitely square is rear per the manual, but it doesn't make any difference to how the car runs...

Do you have the wrong style of bellhousing (ie push instead of pull) or none at all? Whether push or pull the bellhousing should have the slave cylinder mounts cast into it(you may need to drill and tap them), and everything else in the bellhousing is the same. However, the front plate for the gearbox is different between push and pull due to the different thrust bearing mountings

Now it's a bit warmer...and keeping in mind this is GTR not GTST, I run eibach 0800.250.0450 front and 0800.250.0350 rear. 0800 means 8" long, 250 means 2.5" inner diameter and the 0450/0350 is spring rate in lbs/in, so 6.2kg/mm rear and 8kg/mm front. Anyway, point is, with the circlip groove/threaded sleeve, adjustable platform and that style of springs, you can order anything you want from eibach and end up with exactly the rate and height you are after.

Yeah if the wear is good I wouldn't change the rear camber, unless I was chasing grip out of corners (but it sounds like your problem is lag not lack of grip)

BTW love the look of the car too!

That is pretty weird to have a spongey clutch, I've never had an issue with overheated clutch fluid, it just doesn't have the heat coming into it like brakes do. I do run a direct line from clutch master to slave rather than via that intricate factory damper. Suggest you change to a direct line if you aren't and of course it will be bled at same time. For the corner exit, do you have the option to run a shorter diff ratio (obviously need to consider likely highest speed in top gear at the tracks you go to). And of course if you are having a rear traction problem getting on it earlier, a little less rear camber and a good diff can help

sorry it's -1 outside and dark Plus it's a gtr not gtst and motorsport not street use. I don't know what rate the nismo stuff was, but I am willing to back their engineering skills and knowledge over mine

eibach make anything you need for springs, I run bilsteins with circlip grooves which hold the threaded sleeve which hold adjustable platforms. Then I just run eibach springs in the right rate. what is your use, street or some sort of motorsport? and I see you aren't in Oz, but it might have helped to say where you actually are (or just fill in your profile location)

redline lightweight is good for improving shifting in boxes which crunch on fast(er) shifts due to worn synchros. I would steer clear of it in new or rebuilt boxes with good synchros as it is not recommended for synchro boxes by the manufacturer

my bet is it is something small and loose but hard to move because gearbox oil is very sticky....Lots of little pieces that could detatch and have the box still working OK like a synchro clip

With any luck that fragment will be magnetic. just use some short wire with a magnet on it to try and drag the part out....but bottom line is nothing should be loose in there so a teardown is in order.

Looks awesome, yellow is a great colour to stand out on track. MCA golds are a good choice for endurance work and they should have settings available for 32 GTST.

Yeah there are variations in the looms from different years, but if you have 2 relays on is ECCS and the other ignition. Per your diagram pin 16 should earth the ECCS relay when the ECU gets IGN on signal, so check out that part first.

Are you sure the ECU is powered up correctly? Can you attach a consult of some sort to the port to monitor? ECU power needs the ECCS relay all hooked up correctly, that would be the place to start if the whole ECU is dead.

Much more likely something like the turbo drain is kinked or blocked, probably just pushing oil past the turbo seals. No gasket in the exhaust will definitely not cause white smoke. white is generally either water vapour or oil burning

Since I don't often tow with it any more, the towball and hitch is in the boot, and I got this custom cover from ebay for the receiver. (poor girl is looking dirty these days....we are a long way to the closest tar....)

Right, well that makes it surprisingly hard because larger diameters have much more area/glow. Say you want 3.5" flow (90mm) in twins, you need 2x 65mm. You do get 35mm more clearance that way but it's definitely not half. Ride height and side pipes are a problem; you can't have the chassis rails 100mm off the ground and then lose 65 or even 90mm clearance below it; you end up having to run the chassis rails 190mm off the ground (single) or 165mm (twin)....

Sidepipes are difficult in large diameters because you lose ground clearance where you cross the chassis rails and sills. You may want to consider smaller twins rather than large single for side pipe. Or major surgery around chassis rails/sills to get the clearance. Or....sad as it sounds, a rear exhaust is just way more practical...plenty of space and premade options if you want.

when you say the diff is completely dry, you mean on the outside, right? I was asking about internal fluid level, the filler is on the passenger side of the diff, generally half obscured by the exhaust. when you mention the 4wd error light is on, it is possible the ticking is the attessa pump relay turning on and off if your nitrogen cannister has insufficient pressure; however this should happen reasonably regularly even at idle when not moving, not just when you are braking. it is pretty much impossible to guess where the issue could be after a brief text description. If you can catch audio of the sound occurring that may help a lot, but frankly if a competent mechanic can't diagnose with the car in front of them it is pretty unlikely anyone can help you over the web.

Normally what someone would describe as a "ticking sound from the rear" is more likely to be related to the rear brakes - something like a rock caught between the disc/caliper/guard area, but if a mechanic has looked at it hopefully that is what they checked first. is there oil in the diff? normally a diff problem would be a clunk or whir/whine

I'll add that I've not had oiling problems in the race car for years (although I had plenty early on). I use hi octane extended/baffled sump, nitto oil pump, standard block (never line bored), drilled out block oil returns, a rear head oil return/breather, head oil restrictor, baffled cam covers, standard size cam breathers to catch can then atmo, and a big oil cooler with thermostat. And a carefully assembled bottom end. Lots of RBs racing with wet sumps and surviving, I can think of at least 3 that did 6 days of Targa Tas last month (Liam, Golly and Jason). AFAIK none of them use standard (extended) oil pump drives, nothing fancy.

Interesting question. Seems to me it was perfectly fine for the purpose it was engineered for; 100-206kw road cars. I guess a better question is, why do people expect road car engine oiling systems to be adequate for applications with triple the factory power, or sustained high g/ high rev usage? In my opinion Nissan's engineering on the RB series skylines is so good that people 30 years later expect to be able to operate them well beyond their design limits. Try that with an EB Falcon or a VN Commodore. BTW the Group A GTRs ran wet sumps with baffles. Any serious race engine (no matter what the production base was) will run a dry sump if the regs allow it.

Yeah I've got one in my HY51. Fast postage and does what it says. I did lose some features of mixed value like the front guard camera, the japanese lady yelling reverse parking instructions, and the japanese band tv tuner

Yeah, drilling them out is a bastard, the metal is too thin and it rips.

Odd....Prestige (Iron Chef, etc etc) are borkers working on your direction so it is your choice if it makes financial sense. The Fuga I just imported through Prestige there were cheaper cars here already but not in the spec and condition I was after.