Duncan

And on the bright side, at least it didn't crack the windscreen - it often does when it flies up

No fact....just purely that the hole most likely elongated and eventually ripped in only 1 direction as it failed because the force was in 1 direction

Surely it is 12mm circle because it is a pivot point....whatever happened was nasty (didn't close latch)?

Then I can't help, but hopefully someone else can...

I'm pretty good, but it's hard to guess what car that is off from the pics....

I mean, back in 19jggity3 when I was young we used to have to do that in the snow, uphill both ways in the boiling sun. You must be granny shifting instead of double clutching like you should have!

Yeah agreed elk...surely you can drive home with no clutch (as long as the battery/starter are good and not too many traffic lights )

Please note this thread is still monitored and the quickest way to get a username changed.

Those sensors are a great idea to simplify plumbing and wire routing, hope they are reliable over time. Any thermostat with a properly designed sender port should be fine to use; you obviously can't take either temp or pressure from the oil cooler loop in a system with a thermostat. There is some disagreement about whether you want pre or post oil cooler temperature, my view is I want pre cooler temp because I want to know the hottest the oil got.

If you don't trust your broker to tell you the correct price, why would you trust them to check out a car for you. Plenty of better ways to rip you off from another country if that is their intention

Also, off topic posts removed.

Alright, now everyone can settle the hell down. New posters are welcome on this forum, and prior knowledge is not a pre-requisite. Please welcome new people and share knowledge with them, as each of us learned when we joined and over our time here.

Yeah exactly, it is common for parts to be a few degrees off flat. If a couple of them go the same way you end up with that sort of issue. Not many china parts are as bolt on as they claim.... Cut and reweld at a zorst shop. BTW thanks for the introduction to new terminology "long laying knee" and "downpipe" I take it that is the first piece off the turbo (dump pipe) and piece from the dump pipe to that cat converter which we would normally call front pipe?

It was a pretty abrupt response Ben. You might want to check distance to Alice (from everywhere!) before you drop by...

sounds like a good project...do you have a future home for it? It is worth getting the R32 GTR workshop manual, while the motor is not identical, the long block is very similar and it will have pretty much everything you need. There is also an R33 GTST workshop manual which is specific to that motor, but is in japanese

Who let Richard back?

Yeah I just got one from Nissan jp via Jesse Streeter too. I think it's unlikely you'll find second hand available, they are all broken.

that does suck to face, but thanks from everyone for being out there in the mud for the cleanup

Good to know the cross reference, thanks. Getting brake parts at short notice for weird nissan imports has been the bane of my life over the last decade... I can also confirm the GF50 Cima ATTKD brakes I had don't fit; disc size and caliper offset is good, but the bolt spacing is miles off for the caliper

Welcome to SAU

glad it is working...but I'm pretty sure I mentioned spacing out the cam sensor a few pages back 😛

So just to be sure, you do have the + hooked up to the alternator, right? It is 4 wire; small eyelet is earth (goes to a m5 bolt into the body of the alternator), large eyelet (is meant to have a red rubber cover but might be missing) goes to the m6 stud on the alternator and the other 2 wires (exciter and voltage signal) go via the plug. If you have earthed the alternator main outlet you should have seen sparks.....either when you earthed it or when you attached the battery + depending on order you did things. Also this partly depends on your exact 12v setup because from memory battery is in the boot now.

But hard to tell with the other wire without more context. However. Are you running the standard ignitor pack for the coils? If so make sure the earth in that loom (car side of the ignitor pack) is well earthed, I earth it on the ignitor itself which I bolt to the cam cover. Easy to forget/get wrong when you are not running a coil pack cover. Also, there is one 3 pin connector (just like the one you have shown) at the rear of the engine that can be hooked up incorrectly (ie, the engine loom has both the male and female parts of the connector, and the either the car or engine sub loom, (can't remember which) also has a matching connector. As a result it is possible to physically connect the wrong connector pairs. Bad explanation, but easy to check with the car in front of you

Yeah a sad loss, she was a good racer and one of the few women who have made a career in motorsport over a long period.

Also for ease of reference, I measured up the rotors and pads while I was there. Fronts are 320mm diameter, 28mm thick, 50mm high which makes them DB2308. DBA don't list them for the hybrid but they are listed for the VQ25 and VQ37 models Rears are 308mm diameter, 17mm thick, 64mm high which makes them DB2313E. Again DBA don't list them for Fuga but the listing is there for Infiniti Q70 rear. Front pads are DB1696, bendix don't list them as Fuga but they do list them for M35h Infiniti Rear pads are DB1509, again bendix list them for M35h Infiniti not Fuga.