Duncan

For reference of anyone else doing interior and exterior LED swaps (looks much more modern I think), bulbs locations and sizes are: Interior (excluding vanity mirrors, cig lighter, rear ashtray light, glovebox light): LH reading – ba9s RH reading– ba9s LH footwell – T10 LH footwell – T10 RHF door – T10 RHR door – T10 LHF door – T10 LHR door – T10 Boot lamp – T10 For the exterior (headlights are HID 35w D2S, my side repeaters are sealed lights with T10 so I left them) Front Parkers - 2x T10 with all around LEDs (not just end) mid length Front indicators – 2x T20 orange, resistors required Fog Lights - 2x H8 (white LED swap) Rear indicators - 2x T20, resistors required Reverse lights - 2x T10 with all around LEDs (not just end) mid length License plate lights - 2x T10, must be short to fit housing

OK, looks like I'm done for now except for some properly sized tyres. I've finished the install of the antenna, antenna splitter, usb 4g wifi and 4g mobile booster in the boot Once the trim is back in, no sign of it all, other than the nice new bright boot lights I added these lights in addition to changing the stock boot light to LED Inside, I've installed the Greddy Informeter. It's hard to find a good spot for extra displays with interior designs but this works OK. I wired in another OBD port for it so the standard one is still available. I've also installed a wireless charging phone cradle mount to the right of the steering wheel with USB power supply but no pics yet Finally, all the LED swap overs are complete, the front exterior is all LED now except the headlights which were HID

Others will know better than me, but I'd guess a gtst will get to 260kw with a high flow standard turbo, powerfc, exhaust and possibly injectors. This is a well trodden path

What is 350 hp, 260kw? And what is your location as that may affect price but is not in your profile?

Not really. Possibly you've had some bad fuel along the way, but it is a very strange problem. Have you been shown the issue?

Are you sure the pressure switch om the receiver dryer is connected and working?

Don't worry about your master cylinder, your throttle cable isn't secured properly! When I replaced mine r32 masters were not available new (they may be again now), I fitted a 33 gtr one and have gone without the low fluid light as the plug is different. Otherwise it is a direct fit. No need to change the size of the standard master cylinder, even if you have somewhat larger than stock calipers.

These guys do ones for Vq35HR https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c847342390

I don't get all the agro. It IS unusual and interesting to have a no radio car. There aren't really many sources of good information on what happened 25 years ago in a non-english speaking country, if you aren't interested in talking about it in this thread....don't!

Yep confirmed, the battery has a cabin air feed and a separate fan. No cooling for the capacitor so I guess Nissan figured that didn't need it. Sorted out a couple more things on the car. Replaced rear ashtray with rear USB, 12v and auxiliary power (including some mangling of the top right screw where I cross threaded it and had to cut it off, dammit) Also completed the LED light bar install. There is a mile of room behind the bumper, probably for front end safety zone, but I think having a big light adds more safety in my usage, especially as "winter is coming"... I took a High Beam signal from this pink wire on the rear of the headlight in the passenger wheel well Added a relay (second from bottom on left, with integral fuse) triggered by that wire, in the fusebox just above in the engine bay (and took the power feed from the large supply stud there) Pulled the bumper and reo off Added a pair of simple L brackets on the rear of the front bumper reo and mounted a very larga Narva light bar (40 LED, 200W, 18000 Lumen). Once reassembled it is unobtrusive Unless they are on... Hopefully that will give me every chance to see the wombats before it's too late. I've got the same bar on the Titan and it does an excellent job. Very few things still to sort out for me; changing the front lights to LEDs except for the main beams which are D2S HIDs already, fitting larger tyres (236/60/18 instead of 245/50/18) so the cruise control doesn't top out at 107, finalising the 4g booster and wifi install, and potentially fitting larger brakes I took off the Cima for slightly better braking, but more importantly easier replacement of parts (more research needed here on front and rear fuga pad and disc compatibility).

Tip is that it is much easier to leave the engine loom in the car when you remove the engine (Probably even if you are changing the loom...)

That is an unusual spec, if you post the VIN we can double check the original spec in FAST. I've never come across a 33 gtst without HICAS or stereo before. All 33 gtst were designated Type M though.

On an rb26, when the belt is on correctly and the crank pulley mark is aligned with the oil pump mark, when fitted the harmonic balancer would be at 0o timing. I don't know if an rb25 neo has marks that start at 0 or not. Some engines start at 10o etc, and required base timing is different too (noting that can be set in some aftermarket ECUs anyway) Assuming your balancer is in good condition, it does not matter where the balancer timing mark ends up when you assemble it. You can and should freely rotate the engine once the belt is on. The harmonic balancer is located by the woodruff key in the crank. If you want, you can turn the engine with the balancer on and something soft in cylinder 1 spark plug hole to determine actual TDC. It is possible for the outside of a balancer to fail and spin relative to the inside because it is just 2 parts glued together with rubber. If the outside of your balancer turns independently to the crank after installation it is NFG and needs to be replaced.

The R32 GTR manual explains the process, but you are thinking of it backwards. The belt does not determine the pulley locations. Put the crank and cam pulleys aligned to the marks as best you can, then put the belt on. The tensioner needs to be pulled out of the way using the allen key slot. Once the belt is on release the tensioner and turn the crank at least twice to set the right tension, then tighten the tensioner nut. It is pretty hard to get the teeth wrong, just go with it. Once the engine is running use a timing light to set the base timing (RB25 is different to rb26) and it will all be good to go.

Firstly, don't worry about replacing the oil pump. I thought from the first post that pic on a stand was your engine but I think it was just and example. Unless you have some reason to suspect an oil pump problem, leave it there, because as you say the only practical way to change it is engine out. You would only change an oil pump when rebuilding an engine and checking out the rest of the oiling system at the same time. Regarding timing. Yes you have to be careful, but on the other hand it's not black magic and the timing marks are there for a reason. Yes, you can use a something through the spark plug hole to find TDC for cylinder 1. Ideally something with a plastic not metal end but even then a screwdriver is a pretty common choice. What you CANT do, is turn the crank or cams a significant way without a timing belt on. RBs are interference engines which means if the crank turns without the cams (or vice versa), the pistons will hit the valves. So, any adjustment you make to either crank or cams by more than a few degrees, do it slowly (watching for resistance suggesting a valve is impacted) and evenly across the engine and both cams. The timing marks show you with reasonable accuracy that the crank and cams are at TDC1. You don't need more than that for a timing belt install because once they are the right relative position and the belt is on, the engine (top and bottom) is safe to turn as required and you just set the base timing by adjusting the crank angle sensor. Basically....you are overthinking this issue. If the second and 3rd pic in the first post are from your engine the cams are 1-2 teeth out, just turn them back into place. Assuming the crank is the same (few degrees out), just turn it back too and put the belt on.

It sure sounds like a lost turbo wheel if it idles and drives OK off boost but won't make boost. As you don't have a cat you are unlikely to ever find the missing wheel. Having an intercooler pipe blow off or split is another potential cause and can sound terrible, but the car almost always won't start or idle in this case. Best to carefully check each large intake pipe before you start pulling turbos off, as well as obvious failures like pipes not being connected there can be harder to identify issues like splits under hose clamps for example. Least likely but still possible is you've had an engine problem at the same time, eg broken ring lands. A compression test will tell you if there is a problem but again this is unlikely if it starts and idles OK. If it is a turbo wheel coming off I have heard of engine damaging resulting but have never seen it personally. Apparently ceramic from the turbo wheel have more velocity than exhaust gases and can travel through the open exhaust valve into a cylinder, scoring it badly enough to require on oversize piston rebuild.

nothing like that easy, the whole front end is different between 2wd and 4wd for both GTT and Stagea. If you want a 4wd R34, best to source a gts4.

Lumleys. I've never had to claim but sevice and price are good

pretty sure the MAF is 5v not 12 so NFG. Also pretty sure haltech stopped selling smartwire because they sell nexus now, and dont support their old products. you should be able to get one more eaily from racepack in the us anyway. I don't know how much power the WB heater draws. I used a separate 10a circuit from the smartwire which is of no use to you

sure...but not for long in the scheme of things. having said that my race car is 30 years old this year, and the average age of an improved production field is even worse

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them. Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

Looks like a tough interpretation of rules considering likely % of total emissions from race cars, but I guess we all need to do our bit. On the bright side it only seems to affect internal combustion engines, so electric cars should be fine

what sort of motorsport are you doing to need anti-lag, and what other features are you looking for to suit eg track logging, launch control, traction control etc? Seems to me that PowerFC is the "best" ECU for almost all RB applications given its price and simplicity. You only need something more expensive if you have particular feature needs.

No, it wont turn.

Yeah I'm not an expert in this sort of issue, best to talk to the engine shop. But I understand if you bottom out a stud in it's hole this could be possible, same if there was some sort of fluid in the bottom of the hole under the stud. I would have thought twisting under power issue would show up between cylinders middle/rear of the engine...if so time for a shiny purple block brace...