ozcanGTT

car is sold

Bump Price drop $18,800 ono

Bump!! Price drop $19,800 ono 133,XXX on the clock

2003 V35 Skyline 350GT - MODIFIED 2003 V35 Skyline 350GT - ACT - $23,500 Well the time has come for me to make the decision to on-sell my V35. I am a ‘50s something guy’ who purchased this car in July 2013 after searching high and low for about 4 years to find a V35 that was in as good as condition as this one was to satisfy my mid-life-crisis. I am the 3rd Australian owner of this vehicle and purchased the car off a guy on this forum in Vic, who purchased the car off the 1st owner (an older guy who was fastidious about the car) who imported the car back in 2006. I have all receipts for all servicing done to the car while I have owned it, as well as all import and compliance papers, including the de-registration papers from Japan to prove genuine km’s plus a stack of receipts for all mods done to the car by the previous 2 owners. The previous owner spent over 10k on the car. Condition: Excellent. 124,XXX genuine km’s. Accident free. Rust free. Engine pulls like a train. Regularly serviced every 5,000km to 8000km. Car has just been detailed inside and out and under the bonnet for this sale and is spotless. Standard Features: Leather & Suede black/grey interior. Factory Navigation tuner (converted to English) Folding mirrors Auto headlights Dual Climate control Electric seats Factory alarm Factory Privacy glass 5AT (auto) Transmission MODIFICATIONS Interior: Works Bell carbon paddle shifters ($500) Momo Leather shifter ($200) All interior piece professionally painted gloss black in 2-pac paint ($250) New ‘350GT’ embroided floor mats ($150) LEDs throughout Cruise Control (aftermarket - makes this car a dream to drive on those long freeway journeys) Stereo: Pioneer AVH-8450BT 7” DIN HU ($700) Wiring harness for steering wheel controls Pioneer Reverse camera ($175) Alpine PDX-V9 5Ch amp ($500) Image Dynamics 10” sub ($400 imported from the US by previous owner) Custom fibreglass sub box JL Audio RCAs ($100) 0 gauge wiring front to back Dynamat soundproofing throughout Computer cooling fan to keep amp cool Bose speakers Suspension BC BR Coilovers ($1300) Whiteline sway bars Front & Rear SPC rear camber arms SPC rear toe bolts Brakes Brembo calipers F&R (not standard on autos, fitted in 2009 and painted in VHT Tiffany Blue with Brembo decals, and Brembo bleed nipples) Safebrake performance s/steel braided & teflon lined brake lines QFM HPX pads ($240) RDA Slotted rotors front Wheels & Tyres SSR SP3 20x9 (+6) 20x10 (+16). Step lips. Matte gunmetal centres. Excellent condition ($3500 when new) Nitto Invo 245/30 ZR20 fronts, Nitto Invo 275/30 ZR20 rears (plenty of tread on fronts and rears) Project Mu 7-sided lug nuts ($190) KYO Dency EI electronic security lock nuts ($200) Engine Motordyne 5/16 Plenum spacer Carbon Fibre Z tube Berk Hi flow cats ($600) Exotic speed stainless Y-Pipe ($450) Apexi WS2 stainless exhaust ($1250) (this exhaust has a great exotic note, and no drone) Grounding kit Exterior 2007 Xenon project headlights (very rare. $800 if you can find them, will also include original 2003 headlights) Nismo front bar, genuine, poly carbonate (not fibreglass rep) $1200 unpainted Nismo front and rear pods Vertex Digna roof lip (Gloss black 2pac) and Vertex Digna boot lip (Ivory pearl colour matched) ($600) Gloss black emblemless grill ($150) Gloss black vinyl roof (re-applied about a month ago ($385) Rolled guards PRICE: $23,500 (No swaps, thanks) Comments: Car will come with full service history and all the spares I have, spare 2003 headlights, stock wheels (good rubber), stock exhaust, spare set of interior floor mats and strut brace. The price is at the upper end of the scale, I am aware, but I honestly don’t believe you could find a better condition V35 or one with this level of modification (it took me 4 years to find this one). This car has been such a joy to own, having had no issues whatsoever and is just a beautiful car and a pleasure to drive. A real head turner – literally! It is without doubt one of the prettiest looking 2 door coupes Nissan has ever produced and that is what turns heads (most people don’t know what brand of car it is and I always get comments on the look and exhaust note of the car). Plenty of power with a 0-100 time in the sub 6 secs and can hold it with the best through the turns. There is nothing left to do on this car except maybe a TransGo shift kit. Willing to sell minus wheels (subtract $2500). Car can be viewed in Canberra on weekends – only a reasonable 3 to 3 ½ hr drive from Sydney and it loves that trip back up the highway. PM all questions and enquiries or contact on: 0401 884 seven six seven Mick

Just voted, good luck guys

And another from The Rocks in Sydney

Great thread theme Terry. Here is one from a recent trip to Melbourne.

Looks pretty good, looking forward to seeing the full vid Thanks for the teaser Mitch

Spotted JD's blue R33 GTR LM yesterday afternoon turning off Tharwa Dr near Calwell, I was in the black R34 GTT heading toward Lanyon. Car is looking perfect!

So, I just did some more research and now realise its AWD (so basically a V-Spec) and based on the RWD version raced at Le Man...doh!

Hey John, congrats on a beautifully looked after vehicle. Sorry, maybe a dumb question, but can you tell me is the GT- R LM RWD or AWD? Cheers

Thought I would post a recent shot I took of Gibraltar Falls in the ACT. I applied an oil painting effect in Photoshop and was pleased with the result as it really shows the different textures and colors in the shot. Hope you like it.

Yep that was me. I gave you a wave

Yep that was me. Pretty sure it was going past Narrabundah High School Friday arvo. We went past each other so quick a wave was too late haha

Just received a PM with some advice regarding my noisy timing belt issue and I thought I should post it here for all to read as I think it warrants consideration. In the end I guess you should make your own decision to look further into this type of noise, but after reading this advice from someone with first hand experience in this I think I will be visiting my mechanic to get the belt retensioned or better still replaced. Here is the advice: ----------------------------- And there you go, 2-replies to your post and both wrong. The noise is not normal, it's simply your choice of belt, If you'd fitted a factory belt there would be no noise. I explained all this to a guy with a 33 GTR only a few days back, he posted in the Skylines and other vehicles section. Exactly the same problem and fixed by setting the Gates belt slightly looser than the factory spec. A Gates belt is quiet on initial start, but as the engine warms up dimensions grow. A factory belt has slight stretch and will accommodate the change in dimension, not a Gates belt, they're way too strong. So now you're driving with an overtensioned cambelt, what can go wrong. The noise is the idler bearings. If they collapse or the same for the tensioner or perhaps snap off the idler centre bolt, you'll have valves hitting pistons. The other problem is an overtight belt damages the front camshaft bearings. When something breaks and your engine is ruined, I can guarantee the mechanic will walk away as he's fitted a non standard part yet tensioned it correctly. You can't win in cases like this, especially if you supplied the parts. Easy fix is to do the job again but this time set the tension slightly less than factory. BUT remember all this and never use Gates crap again, there's simply no need to use such belts. Even RIPS making 1000hp uses a factory belt. I went on to explain to the other member how Gates makes it attractive by supplying all the items in a reasonably priced kit. They also do kits for other cars and one I have a lot of trouble with is the RD28 in the Nissan Patrol. It does exactly the same thing but as they're diesel you can't hear the horrible noise and they will snap the camshaft wheel right off the cam, then put the valves through the pistons. You buy a new engine for these things, that's how bad the damage is. Raved on a bit but I can't believe guys who say such noise is acceptable, they're just wrong. If you google up cambelt noise you'll find u-tubes of exactly your noise. A recent one is by SargeXR8 from this forum. He did his tensioning at least 3-times before getting it right. I told him straight up what the problem was and he's happy now. I've done loads of cambelts in all my Skylines, never had a fail until my GTR which got a Gates belt, so I know the noise. Never using a Gates belt again.

Just received a PM with some advice regarding my noisy timing belt issue and I thought I should post it here for all to read as I think it warrants consideration. In the end I guess you should make your own decision to look further into this type of noise, but after reading this advice from someone with first hand experience in this I think I will be visiting my mechanic to get the belt retensioned or better still replaced. Here is the advice: ----------------------------- And there you go, 2-replies to your post and both wrong. The noise is not normal, it's simply your choice of belt, If you'd fitted a factory belt there would be no noise. I explained all this to a guy with a 33 GTR only a few days back, he posted in the Skylines and other vehicles section. Exactly the same problem and fixed by setting the Gates belt slightly looser than the factory spec. A Gates belt is quiet on initial start, but as the engine warms up dimensions grow. A factory belt has slight stretch and will accommodate the change in dimension, not a Gates belt, they're way too strong. So now you're driving with an overtensioned cambelt, what can go wrong. The noise is the idler bearings. If they collapse or the same for the tensioner or perhaps snap off the idler centre bolt, you'll have valves hitting pistons. The other problem is an overtight belt damages the front camshaft bearings. When something breaks and your engine is ruined, I can guarantee the mechanic will walk away as he's fitted a non standard part yet tensioned it correctly. You can't win in cases like this, especially if you supplied the parts. Easy fix is to do the job again but this time set the tension slightly less than factory. BUT remember all this and never use Gates crap again, there's simply no need to use such belts. Even RIPS making 1000hp uses a factory belt. I went on to explain to the other member how Gates makes it attractive by supplying all the items in a reasonably priced kit. They also do kits for other cars and one I have a lot of trouble with is the RD28 in the Nissan Patrol. It does exactly the same thing but as they're diesel you can't hear the horrible noise and they will snap the camshaft wheel right off the cam, then put the valves through the pistons. You buy a new engine for these things, that's how bad the damage is. Raved on a bit but I can't believe guys who say such noise is acceptable, they're just wrong. If you google up cambelt noise you'll find u-tubes of exactly your noise. A recent one is by SargeXR8 from this forum. He did his tensioning at least 3-times before getting it right. I told him straight up what the problem was and he's happy now. I've done loads of cambelts in all my Skylines, never had a fail until my GTR which got a Gates belt, so I know the noise. Never using a Gates belt again.

Thanks for the hasty advice and reassurance guys. I did some additional research on the forum and yep it seems to be a common issue with the Gates timing belt. Apparently it may go away after a period of time when the belt settles in. Glad that this is not a big issue anymore. Woo hoo

Thanks for the hasty advice and reassurance guys. I did some additional research on the forum and yep it seems to be a common issue with the Gates timing belt. Apparently it may go away after a period of time when the belt settles in. Glad that this is not a big issue anymore. Woo hoo

So, I recently had a 100,000km service done on my R34 GTT which included installation of a new timing belt. Since this new belt was installed I now have a noise once the engine has warmed to operating temperature. The noise would best be described as an oscillating noise (only present at idle), and the mechanic told me it was due to the type of timing belt that was supplied with the kit. Apparently the belt supplied with the kit for the 100K service for an R34GTT has changed and is now a "racing" spec belt, blue in color and made from a stronger type of material. The belt has been tightened to the required spec and has subsequently been re-checked by the same mechanic, but the noise remains. I have been advised (by the mechanic) that the same noise exists in a recently serviced R33 which had the same type of belt installed. He said it was nothing to worry about and a common result now that this type of belt comes with the kit. So I am seeking some advice here on the forum to see if anybody else has had the same issue/result. Q. Is my mechanic pulling my leg here? I have sought a 2nd opinion from another mechanic who told me that the tension on the belt is too tight if set at the required specification and the noise can only go away by reducing the tension (slightly) on the belt. He advised me that I risk breaking a belt if left like it is, with possible additional damage to the engine. Q. Is this correct advice? Any feedback or advice from you guys would be appreciated. The noise wasn't there prior to the 100K service, so I am of the opinion that it shouldn't be there now. Cheers, mick :excl:

So, I recently had a 100,000km service done on my R34 GTT which included installation of a new timing belt. Since this new belt was installed I now have a noise once the engine has warmed to operating temperature. The noise would best be described as an oscillating noise (only present at idle), and the mechanic told me it was due to the type of timing belt that was supplied with the kit. Apparently the belt supplied with the kit for the 100K service for an R34GTT has changed and is now a "racing" spec belt, blue in color and made from a stronger type of material. The belt has been tightened to the required spec and has subsequently been re-checked by the same mechanic, but the noise remains. I have been advised (by the mechanic) that the same noise exists in a recently serviced R33 which had the same type of belt installed. He said it was nothing to worry about and a common result now that this type of belt comes with the kit. So I am seeking some advice here on the forum to see if anybody else has had the same issue/result. Q. Is my mechanic pulling my leg here? I have sought a 2nd opinion from another mechanic who told me that the tension on the belt is too tight if set at the required specification and the noise can only go away by reducing the tension (slightly) on the belt. He advised me that I risk breaking a belt if left like it is, with possible additional damage to the engine. Q. Is this correct advice? Any feedback or advice from you guys would be appreciated. The noise wasn't there prior to the 100K service, so I am of the opinion that it shouldn't be there now. Cheers, mick

Well how difficult can it be !!! 1) Push dishwasher in hole/opening in kitchen; - make sure it is level 2) plug lead into powerpoint; 3) hook up drain at the dishwasher and then the drain pipe under the sink; or for you 4) call Mario (the plumber) and pay him to do it Maybe you should have posted this on the Plumbers crack.....forum Ha ! Ha !

Happy to do Formals, did one a month ago for Canberra Girls Grammar Car below is tidy and no concerns about defects

Parked next to a white R34GTT in the car park near Phillip Ice rink yesterday and today, is that anyone here on the forums? if so hi ya

Yep as this is my daily you would see me down south quite often teasing the Falcodores and Ute wank%&s

Yep, the S15 is my son's ride......sweet looking R Spec