underground

A coupe of my friends have suggested that the car should idle around 30 PSI vacuum being a V6 TT.. I don't have factory specs, so I'm simply asking..

Hey Guys, Well, I have had this air leak sound coming from somewhere for almost three weeks, can't seem to locate it exactly... Sounds like its coming from underneath the intake manifold, but I may be completely off.... Anyways, tonight I'm driving the car, and my boost shoots up to 20 PSI.. I'm at factory boost, so I know I have a boost leak... The car doesn't feel nearly as strong as it used too.. After letting the car sit and cool down at a friends house, I drove it back home and the boost was back hold at factory 9 PSI the whole way home, with no overboosting... kind of weird... Background: At idle, when I noticed it overboosting, it was at 0 PSI vacuum.... Before the little overboost episode tonight, with the air leak sound, it was at 15 PSI vacuum... Any suggestions? How many vacuum lines are on this motor? What vacuum should I be at? Chris

I haven't checked timing yet, but that is something I plan to do next... I was hoping to get the car to the radiator specialist today to have the coolant system pressure tested for leaks, but i got caught up at the tire place... I was running 275/35/18 BFG Drag Radials, but they didn't handle outside of straight line. (But they were free, sponsored by BFG, so I can't complain. So, I finally got some BFG KD's in today, 285/30/18, little less tire height which really makes a difference. So far, the car hasn't rubbed abit.... I will update this post tomorrow when I hear back from the radiator specialist...

The thermo fans are always on.. I have them wired into the ignition, so that they come on when the car is started... The engine is running extremely rich...It reaks of fuel...

Well, if anybody has an extra clutch fan setup that I could try, let me know.. I'm happy to pay shipping... But, let's get some specs in terms of distance from the motor, etc. To see if it will fit.... I cut my core support and moved my radiator nearly two inches forward, so maybe it would work... I'm still not sure this is the problem though..

Thanks man!

We don't have Skylines here in the states.. I have been told that the GTR uses the same thermostat as a 91-96 Nissan 300ZX (Fairlady Z) TT.... Could anybody cross reference this part and tell me what other Nissan makes share this thermostat?

Yes, the fans have a shroud...

Clutch fan? You mean factory fans? If so, mine has electric aftermarket fans... No room for original fans...as I have a motor swap into my 200SX (Silvia, 240SX (US))

Yeah, I agree... I go RB25DET anyday of the week over the RB20.... We have guys here in the states making over 550 HP on bone stock motors w turbo upgrades... All in the tuning...

It currently has a 16 lb cap.... I will go and buy another cap today, and try that... Also, I want to stick another thermostat in the motor... We don't have Skylines here in the states.. I have been told that the GTR uses the same thermostat as a 91-96 Nissan 300ZX (Fairlady Z) TT.... Could anybody cross reference this part and tell me what other Nissan makes share this thermostat?

I believe the Nismo thermostat opens at 72-75 degrees celsius.. With the thermostat in, it would have boiled til the motor blew if I would have let it.. But, at the same time, I had that leak that I talked about.. After I tightened that hose down, my temps dropped and held consistent at around 99 degrees celsius..so, it could have been that hose that was causing the problems and not the thermostat... Hot, but no longer rising endlessly.. As far as the stutter when trying to start, I don't notice anything like that... However, there have been two different occasions in the past week, where it felt like my fuel pump had gone out for a second, and it kind of kicked the car forward when driving... Like it had a loss of power, but then it was find.. Only lasted for a few seconds.. I checked my sparkplugs they are the PFR 7A11s, and they are gapped to 0.40 I believe... I guess that's stock gap...

It was originally. But now, that I have pulled out the thermostat and fixed that hose leak, it just sucks up water from the overflow if needed. No more spitting that I can tell....

Just do the RB26 swap into a S14 like me... http://www.undergroundmotorsports.com/abou...-projectcar.htm Get the best of both worlds... Chris

I'm using an Autometer Electric Temp Gauge... I have it tapped into the neck that the upper radiator hose bolts too... I should also mention I have a oil leak with one of my turbos'.. The shop that did the swap told me that its coming from one of the lines.. He said I just need to reseal it....Maybe this is another issue, which might explain where the oil was coming from, if there really is an oil in coolant issue..

To answer a few of your questions above, the motor is stock... Stock ECU, stock turbo's, etc.. No A/C, that has been pulled for weight reduction... If anything the motor is running extremely rich... Kills my nose just to smell it... The shop that did the work changed all hoses (as far as I'm aware).

Update: First, I found a water leak today that I believe has been part of the overheating problem.. Right where the lower radiator hose connects to the spicket, I had a nice flow of water when the motor was running... I simply tightened down that clamp, (which was very loose) and that leak appears to be fixed. I think the little bit of oil that was in the coolant was probably from the motor simply sitting... I don't think I have a headgasket issue... I drained my engine oil and there was by no means any signs of coolant in the oil. None...No smell of coolant, etc.. Tonight we backflushed the motor, and got out quite abit of crud... This should have been done three weeks ago when the motor swap was done, but the shop that did the work never did it.. I pulled out the Nismo thermostat (still out, drove the car tonight without it to test the temps) before I flushed the motor to ensure nothing would be left behind... I drove the car without the thermostat tonight for almost two hours.. Temp stayed at 99 degrees celsius and didn't fluctuate.. this is an improvement. Once I pulled off the interstate and was iding in traffic, the temps jumped to about 105 celsius... While this is still not what I was hoping for, we are doing better than the 115 degrees celsius it was going to yesterday... and would continue to go past if I didn't turn off the car. Im going to do the pressure test you guys mentioned.. Any other ideas? Also, I have this one air leak that is driving me nuts. It's loud and noticeable, but I can't figure out where its coming from... What should my vacuum be at idle? It's reading like 15 PSI of vacuum at idle.. which is about 850 RPM... Chris

I went with an Innovative Dual Ball-Bearing T66 turbo, .7 a/r divided.. I was also going for a daily driver setup that would give me good power (500-550 rwhp) on my 2.6 motor, but wouldn't require me to rev to 5K to see boost... With the dual ball-bearing setup, I expect to see boost come on around 500 RPM faster than the normal journal bearing counterpart. I would expect to have boost around 4K, which hopefully will allow the car to be very streetable... At $1700 US Dollars, it was quite steep... We shall see...

After removing thermostat tonight, we have movement... So, I know waterpump is working... I think that possibly the thermostat has gone bad, which is amazing as I just installed it three weeks ago... However the motor has had a lot of residue (I assume from sitting in a salvage yard in Japan for quite some time), and we should have flushed it before we installed thermostat... Chris

Fixed....

Are they the Rollin Brand or Hybrid brand? Chris

Since when did they start making the 600x300x100 core? I've been asking them about this for the longest time for my car...

Anybody?

I am using their 600x300x76 core.. In terms of results, I haven't dynoed the car yet. But, I have driven tons of turbo cars, and these turbo's never get hot with that FMIC..

Yeah, I can vouch for Hybrid. They sponsor my car here in the states, a RB26 Silvia... I have been extremely impressed with their FMIC's.. Run one on mine and have had great results...