SYK-200

at JONNOHR31, i dont exactly know what they machined, my brother got the machining work, the engine was my school project for HSC, i built most of it, brother payed for it all... at abr33, we first started the engine in around july 2011, and since 16th feb, it probably has only been started ~15 times. is this at all repairable, or a new head is needed now? definately a new cam is needed lol, on the positive side, at least i found this problem before something worse happened!

Hello everyone...again! a few months ago i built a rb25, and ever since it was running their was a really high pitch squeal coming from the engine and i had no clue wat it was until yesturday i took off the cam covers and found metal shavings at the first cam cap, so i took it off, and what do i find? the cam cap and camshaft have been worn VERY badly, wat can cause this? no oil getting to it? over tightening the bolts? i didnt install the cams, we sent it to our local machine shop and got the block/head cleaned up, also installed tomei valve springs. ill post up a picture so you can all see how bad it is...

yeah i dont start it very often and now i found a bigger problem, it seems like oil hasnt been getting to one of the exhaust cam caps and the cam cap and the camshaft itself has been grinding alot.....its very very worn away, will probably need a new cam now...bugger

so u reckon iv'e put the cams in wrong, like retarded a few teeth? so the exhaust cam is opening alot sooner, which is causing the loss in power and boosting up? il check it out!

Hey guys, well i rebuilt an rb25det s2 as my school project, and chucked it in a 180sx, here are the mods we done: -forged pistons -rb26 conrods -greddy front facing manifold -90mm throttle body -tomei valve springs -still using stock turbo/cams/ecu and ever since me and my brother got it started it would boost up under no load, u just sit their and rev it, and can see the boost climbing and climbing until it gets to about 10-12 where we set the boost controller, so what could cause this? running really rich under no load? timing is out? any other ideas would be really helpful as we havnt been able to drive it for a few months now as we both been busy and have no clue wat the problem is

alright thanks alot, thats 1 less problem to worry about lol!

Ok, so me and my brother built a rb25 180sx, we got the front facing plenum and the larger throttle body, its been a few months now without driving the car because their are MANY problems with it and i just realised now we got the series 1 TPS sensor because the throttle body only took the s1 TPS, so im just wondering which wires go where, on the s2 engine loom their is yellow/black...red/blue......blue/black and on the TPS sensor their is blue, white and pink? so any guide to that will help, iv'e looked everywhere and cant find anything on s1 tps -> s2 wiring. another thing is this: i grabbed a multimeter and measured the volts the wiring is putting off their should be yellow/black -> 5volt blue/black -> ground red/blue -> TPS signal, BUT im reading like 2.5volts from this? with nothing connected, so its like the ECU is SENDING this wire a voltage? wat the boo! help would definitely move this purposely built drifter into actually drifting, we finished it last year august, havnt even got a chance to run the engine in yet

need this stuff gone!

S14 Parts; -Front Sway Bar -ABS Unit -Brake Master Cylinder -Brake Pedal -Clutch Pedal -Accelerator + Cable -Lower Control Arms -Brakes and 5 stud hubs -Front + Rear Seats -Door Trims -Rear side trims -Passenger door pillar trim -Roof lining (non-sunroof) RB25DET/R33 Parts; -Stock fuel pump -Tailshaft -Stock intake plenum -Stock Catalytic Converter -Stock Pistons 180sx Parts; -Brake booster/master cylinder -Clutch master cylinder -Roof lining for sunroof -CA18DET Engine wiring harness + ECU Live in Wollongong, prefer pick up Message me on 0435 865 481 for offers on any of these parts, all in average condition!

Hello GTR lovers, My formal is on the 21St September and I would really love to have a 35 GTR as my formal car. I Live in Wollongong, which is an hour south from Sydney. The trip would most likely be from my house to the Wollongong light house for photos and then to the function centre (still to be announced). I would DEFINITELY pay for the petrol, and an hourly rate if you wish. I have much respect for anyone's car, no matter what the car, so your beloved car would be treated with much care! If you would like to help me out, I would in your gratitude if you could pm here, text me on <removed> or even message me on Facebook (Jordan Telenta) if your willing to help out a GTR lover

yeah i took apart the oil pump,the bolts were TIGHT AS it fell apart in the 3 pieces but it's stuffed, it doesnt turn at all, so im going to buy a brand new oil pump or good 2nd hand one. It was the same one as i took off when i was rebuilding it...oh well, atleast we found the problem,and it was nothing serious like pistons hitting valves etc.

problem solved!!! ---> the oil pump has seized up somehow when i put it on the crank. the engine now turns again! just recieved some new parts aswell, timing belt, gaskets, and new gauges

hey again, got some new updates; i took the head off today and it wasnt the problem, the engine is still locked in place, so me and the teacher tomorow are going to turn the engine over and have a look at the bottom end to see anything wrong,if their is nothing wrong their we are going to take off the oil pump, is it possible for the oil pump to cease up? i would appreciate any information you would give,thanks

But if it was the valves hitting, i would atleast be able to move it the other way, like clockwise would make piston go up a little more and hit valve, but if i go anti-clockwise, it would just go back down not going near the valves, and no their is no sparkplugs. thanks alot for the info

thanks for that info mad082, really appreciate, im thinking of taking the head off instead of the cams, as its alot easier, BTDC, it just before top dead centre, where i its mean't to sit, or its top dead centre. im still learning mechanics, so bear with me please! the engine has no movement Clockwise OR Anti-Clockwise, like the pistons are superglued to the cylinder wall lol...

yes cams are in the motor, i made sure valves aren't touching by checking which pistons are at the top, and then checked where the lobes are on the cams to make sure none of the valves were pushed down, i have CYL 1 at BTDC and the cams at 15 degree mark where they are mean't to be, and their is no timing belt

hey guys iv'e been rebuilding a rb25 from the ground up, i put the bottom end back up, with CP forged pistons and rb26 conrods (which my brother got ) i had it all spinning, THEN i put the head on, tightened it down (stupid thing to do) then spinning the crank, and it seems its locked in place??? doesnt turn clockwise/anti-clockwise??? its STUCK ?! i double checked that the valves wern't hitting pistons, they wern't. So i only have 2 other feasible options. either; 1. Iv'e tightened the con-rod bolts to tight, but this cant be because iv'e spun the engine before hand. 2. The head hasn't been machined to fit the new 87mm CP pistons, which is causing a sort of lip between the block and the head, so the piston cannot move. Does anyone have any helpful ideas, i need a solution urgently, as this is for my year 12 automotive HSC and i need the engine complete ASAP!

Hey all, im in the process of installing my pistons + conrods in for my rb25...i dont know which way it goes; their is a built in oil squirter on the block that shoots up onto the passenger side of the piston, so im guessing the built in one ON the conrod shoots of the drivers side(opposite side) or does it shoot up the same side as the oil squirter?

u know how u cut the top feed fuel rail off, did u block it off or route it somewhere else? didnt see in ur guide about that,and i dont really want to read through 12 pages!

ill be coming on this for sureeeeee, who's from wollongong thats meeting at north gate maccas???

bump

come to cordeaux heights, i live their, heaps quite and usually friendly people around and + we can work on my s14/r33/180sx

bumpp

Hi all, im looking for gold drift teks, must be 5 x 114.3 and +18 offset, buying them for my maroon s14, so maybe 8.5" front/9.5" rear? nice and wide dont worry about tyres i can organise them seperately... must be in reasonably good condition (not too much gutter rash/chips)... just tell me a price and i'll think about it!

bu bu bu bumppp