Myfine Skyline R34!

Nevermind, I called them yesterday to confirm 100% that Nistune could be done on an N/A ecu and they came back after ringing Nistune again and told me there was a miscommunication. So unfortunately still remains it can't be done on the N/A ecu.. I'm starting to think my only way out is a manual conversion now.

Thanks mate, I tried calling powertune but the receptionist told me they were too busy to talk and most likely will be until next year so I'll be trying CRD and if no good comes of them I will try Powertune

How long ago did you speak to those tuners about the Nistune on an N/A ecu?

Yeah I thought that could be the case but they investigated with nistune and told me they were confident they could make it work with my na ecu. like I said I'm definitely getting a written quote for $1500 just incase of any issues I'll be covered, I don't want that $1500 bill turning into $4000...

Okay, I've spoken to a Nistune tuner workshop called Croydon racing developments don't know if you've heard of them or not? they tell me they can put a nistune motherboard in my original N/A ecu which should rectify the issue I'm having as the transmission will work coincided with the correct tune for my engine they quoted me $1500 to do this. I'm going to make sure I get that in writing to cover myself. To me this sounds like my cheapest and best solution to fix this problem. What do you think Dan?

Thanks for that, gives me some good insight and hope that this issue may be fixable for less than $3000 upwards... See that makes more sense to me than replacing the entire body wiring harness! I reckon it would change nothing personally. As soon as I get my car back I need to find a gun auto elec to help sort out this issue.

I bought both wiring loom and ecu for a auto GTT and supposedly I'm being told from the w/shop that the entire body wiring harness (from front/inside/rear of the car) is different?? Which just doesn't make sense to me..

Thanks for your response, Okay, I made a call to JEM about this and they said they can use a Haltech ps2000 which they wire in with the NA ecu so that my transmission works and have the correct tune for the engine. Does that sound about right to you? also they quoted me $3200 to supply & fit that system, do you think this would be the best way to go in order to avoid any issues? I haven't heard of a Fully Manualized Auto Shift kit, please explain further??

Hey guys. I'm in need of some advice, I have had a conversion from an rb25de to rb25det done with autosport (kirrawee) in my 34 and now I'm facing some transmission problems. Okay so these are my options. 1) Run the factory turbo ecu and have my transmission thump in 2nd gear & lose my tip-tronic mode.. Or 2) Run the factory N/A ecu which runs the transmission fine but the engine very rich (lots of black smoke out of the exhaust) & have a fuel pressure regulator tap fitted to run 20% less fuel.. Any input would be very much appreciated here, Cheers.

Any help or advice on this would be really appreciated guys. I have a 4dr R34 with the tiptronic transmission, It had an RB25DE in it and I wanted to carry out an engine conversion to the RB25DET. So I bought the engine from just jap, and the ecu and wiring loom for a GTT auto. Autosport did the conversion for me but then told me that it was in limp mode, and the transmission was staying in top gear only. he said that it was because the ecu was for a turbo gearbox and also thought that the transmission module had been short circuited during the wiring process, So I bought another transmission module from Sydney auto dismantlers and had it fitted. Didn't change a thing... So now after spending a few more days on it he has told me that the tip-tronic mode works, but it has very lumpy gear changes in drive, and the oil temp, tps sensor doesn't work therefore the gearbox operating at 90%. He also said the only way to rectify this problem is to either buy a turbo tiptronic box, or convert the car to manual. Does anyone know about this sort of problem I have and if there is another solution to make my current box operate properly. I have been without my car now for 5 weeks and am quite disheartened to hear this is the result of the conversion... Thanks for taking your time to read this and I hope one of you have encountered or have known about this problem and know how to rectify it another way.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220854016577?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220854023698?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Hey guy’s I’m selling these items dirt cheap on ebay, if you’re interested check them out asap! They have 3 days left on auction. 1st item: Brand new Apexi pod intake kit to suit all models listed below, This item has a rrp of $149.00. 2nd item: Brand new silicone hoses & intake piping to suit all models listed below, These items all up have a rrp of $100.00. These items are necessary for any person interested in removing the resonator box and having a more direct intake set up to give a better induction sound and better performance. Vehicle Compatibility: - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T (RB20DET) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T (RB25DET) - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS (RB25DE) - Nissan Skyline R34 GTT (RB25DET) - Nissan Skyline R34 GT (RB25DE) - Nissan Stagea (RB25DE) - Nissan Stagea WGNC34 (RB25DET) Thanks for looking

Good to see there is going to be a small crowd of Skylines at this cruise! Only a few more weeks away. Maybe if we all put down what meeting point we're going to be at as well, would be nice to cruise together within the cruise haha.

Nice, Looking for more members getting behind the starlight foundation with their support by attending this cruise. Hope to get a good number of people involved!

Every year the Starlight Children’s Foundation has brightened the lives of many seriously ill children and their families all over Australia. Raising funds is vital in order to keep the charity helping critically ill children all over australia. Heres how you can help... On October 16th 2011, there will be a car cruise from 5 various meet up points to get to Bateau Bay to help avoid traffic jams. Meet up will be at 10.00am for... an 11.00am depature from all meeting points. These meet ups are: 1. Homebush - P6 2. Penrith - Colyton Pub Carpark 3. Roselands - Roseland Centro Shopping Centre Outdoor carpark 4. Newcastle - Stockland Glendale Supa Centre. Lake road Glendale..Near kmart car park. 5. Campbelltown - Crn Oxley and Dumaresq Street car park. An entrance fee of $20 per car is required where you will be provided with a sticker to identify you are part of the cruise. ALL proceeds collected will be donated to the Starlight Childrens Foundation. There will also be a raffle held with awsome prizes donated from various sponsors. Raffle tickets will be sold at the event and will be $1 each. ALL proceeds collected from the raffle will also go towards the Childrens Starlight foundation. An auction will also be held to action off a 2009 signed NRL city jersey, these proceeds will also go to the charity. SEE HOW YOUR MONEY WILL HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE $20 - provides fun arts & crafts for a child in a Starlight Express Room for a day $50 - helps Captain Starlight bring fun & laughter to 6 seriously ill children & their families in the Starlight Express Room or at their bedside $100 - will bring fun & distraction from Captain Starlight to 12 seriously ill children in the Starlight Express Room or at their bedside $200 - helps Captain Starlight entertain 26 seriously ill children in the Starlight Express Room $500 - helps Captain Starlight to deliver fun & laughter to 66 seriously ill children & their families in the Starlight Express Room or at their bedside $6000 - grants a seriously ill child a once in a lifetime Starlight Wish. If you would like to donate a little extra, or would like to donate ans cannot attend the cruise, please see our online fundraiser: www.everydayhero.com.au/star_car_cruise WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK OUR MAJOR SPONSOR - IMODIFY !!!www.imodify.com.au other thanks go to sponsors who include: Coke - a - Cola (Amatil) V Siren Shoes Jim Beam Thomas Sabo Event Cinemas National Rugby League McDonalds Captain Cook Cruises Communication Bussiness Equipment fsn8tr Kustoms Bunnings Wearhouse DJ Seduce DJ Simmy Zee [EVENT IS CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION - STAY TUNED ] --- We take no responsibility for anyones attitude, driving or accidents. We also do not take responsibility for any defects or fines issued. We Do Not Support Or Tolerate ANY Stupid/illegal driving Behaviour (Speeding, Burnouts, etc.)- if you are caught, you will be reported to the police!!! You are agreeing to attend this Cruise at your own risk! Be cautious, watch other drivers and pay attention to the road... Lets give the Modified Car Scene a good name... We All Know The Rules!!!! ---

I agree, And it would be nice if they were but if you ring any dealer for Bilstein in Australia you will be very hard pressed to get a better price for a set.. Sure you can go and buy them from US with the dollar being strong atm but good luck with warranty should anything go wrong, And always make sure that they are TUV approved. You have any accident without that liability approval and you're screwed!

Nice, Thanks for that link had some really good info. I think after reading that i'm going to keep the stock look and go for the twin tip design. Plus the canon design pulls up too much unwanted attention and isn't necessarily louder.

Yeah I considered Brakes/Suspension first... I have Koni sport shocks with external rebound adjustments, coupled with sport low lovells springs. And as my model is the gt-v... It comes with gtt brakes & 17" stockies. I don't think I can go wrong with the mild steel system, 2.5" mandrel bent, high flow cat & resonator for $600 should be good. Now your opinions on the tip... Should I go twin tips or single(canon)?

Fair enough, so mild steel will sound deeper? i'm starting to consider the mild steel system now for $600.

Alright, theres been some discussion (here and elsewhere) of why exactly a monotube is better than twin tube coilovers / shocks... First the facts. Twin tube shocks.They have been around since the mid 20th century, a testament to the design. Utilise a a 2 chamber design, an inner tube where most of the work takes place, and an outer tube which acts as a fluid resevoir. In the outer tube a low pressure gas charge is used as a back stop and for extra dampening. Due to the design and the fact that all energy is converted into heat, means that as the fluid heats up it starts mixing with the nitrogen causing shock fade. Cheaper to produce. Smaller piston surface area. Produces a very linear dampening force across all piston velocities. Exterior tube provides for more protection from dent damage Mono tube shocks. Utilises a single tube with dual pistons. the first piston is attached at the end of the piston rod. The second piston is a free floating piston that seperates the nitrogen charge from the main fluid resevoir. Design inherently reduces the chance of heated fluid mixing with the nitrgen charge reducing suseptability to shock fade. Larger piston surface area increasing initial dampening. Difficult and more expensive to design due to the longer tube requirement. During low speeds the dampening force is non linear causing commonly causing it to "bounce" less protection from dent damage as any damage to the tube effects the pistons path. Can provide for dampening rates that are near twice the rate of twin tube designs. Now as for Comfort... well thats all in the eye of the beholder. While one person may not mind the low speed bounce so much(think grandpas old commodore(exagerating)) some may find the the linear performance of a twin tube is a must. For race applications where tremendous heat is generated, mono tube is a must. For those that just do the occasional spirited driving or the 3 to 6, 45 second runs at the autocross track you will probably never come close to reaching shock fade in a twin tube. Ultimately, its your money, buy as you see fit. And I strongly suggest that you do not install a kit yourself if you don't have any experience in fitting, there is just too much that could go wrong for you.. The last thing you want is for your car to be sloping on one side due to the heights being uneven, the valving being floatie on one corner and hard as dog shit on another... The end result, take a turn a little faster than you normally would to try out your new hectic coilovers and find the car throw you off the road and in to the nearest pole..... Not cool... And not worth it.

Hey thanks for that info mate, Found it very helpful. I was quoted from Kirrawee mufflers $600 to do the same system with mild steel, But I thought stainless steel would be the better way to go for the extra coin.. I’m just tossing up whether to get the custom install done or to go with the Fujitsubo direct bolt on system?? It is cheaper to go the custom system but Its not the price I’m concerned about.. It’s more the quality of sound & the best flow that’s what I’m after J

Hey thanks for that info mate, Found it very helpful. I was quoted from Kirrawee mufflers $600 to do the same system with mild steel, But I thought stainless steel would be the better way to go for the extra coin.. I’m just tossing up whether to get the custom install done or to go with the Fujitsubo direct bolt on system?? It is cheaper to go the custom system but Its not the price I’m concerned about.. It’s more the quality of sound & the best flow that’s what I’m after

Hey thanks for that info mate, Found it very helpful. I was quoted from Kirrawee mufflers $600 to do the same system with mild steel, But I thought stainless steel would be the better way to go for the extra coin.. I’m just tossing up whether to get the custom install done or to go with the Fujitsubo direct bolt on system?? It is cheaper to go the custom system but Its not the price I’m concerned about.. It’s more the quality of sound & the best flow that’s what I’m after J

Ok guy's I have a R34 n/a 4 door & so far I have a few options in mind for an exhaust system & just want to know what your opinions are on them based from experience? Option: 1 I spoke to Lambros @ Hitech mufflers (Darlinghurst) & he said he can do me a full stainless steel system (bar the headers...pointless) 2.5" with a high flow cat mandrel bent and so on for $1200. Option: 2 I've also spoken to Pete @ Kirrawee mufflers & he said he can do me a full stainless system (using mostly x-force parts) with a high flow cat 2.5" for $1000. Option: 3 And lastly I looked @ exhaust systems from just jap and noticed the Fujitsubo Legalis R system they have for a 4dr, and It looks the goods.. Can anyone verify that? it's going for $1199. Your thoughts are appreciated Cheers.

Hey, Does anyone know where I can find Boot lid Lip spoiler for my 34 4dr? Cheers.

HEY ALL, Does anyone know where I can find a dash mat for an R34 Sedan? haven't had any luck with ebay, supercheap etc or even a custom interior fabricator!! If you know of anyone or anywhere to get one please let me know! Thanks Guy's