djvoodoo

Obviously the author has an agenda. Guarantee if they did the same study with the same 500 students (who are prob 18-25 in age), but the question was framed "Do you like loud music" or "Do you think loud music is cool" They would get exactly the same results! But i gotta admit, quality mufflers over straight pipe or fart cannon ftw.

Pretty sure REAP3R (white 34 R) runs 305 x 30's on a 19x11 inch wheel. Stock guards by the look of it (minus liners i guess)

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km. The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though.. I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit. Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm. Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it. Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not. Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often. Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD. Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road. The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

Neat don't yet make the CWP for the 34 vspec A-LSD. I know this because i was talking to them about it last year. They were looking to source a Vspec diff to get the measurements

33Vspec diff direct swap. No other modifications needed to the 34 rear end. Initially, was hard to source the 33 vspec diff at a reasonable price. I found 1 at JustJap. Otherwise Yahoo auctions, or go through an importer like ImportMonster etc

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness) In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff. Front is the same across 32/33/34.

Pretty self explanatory. Looking for an R33 GTR speedo sensor. Can't buy them new anymore. DM me if you have 1. Thanks

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

Noted and taken on board!

Yep, ok got it now! Took me a while 😵‍💫

Right, not sure if i explained myself correct. So wire in as below? *edit, use accessory power to turn on the unit, i'll prob use the cigarette lighter etc, not pin 29 (ign)

Thanks @GTSBoy - So pretty much i dont need to wire in the "Speedo Out" wire on the Jaycar unit. I.E : 1. Power 2. Ground 3. Pin 19 on 34 cluster to speed input wire on Jaycar unit 4. Leave Speed out wire disconnected. Or ground?

Hi guys. Still trying to find some info. Having replaced my Getrag 3.54 diff ration to 4.11's, my 34R speedo is out. Am planning to use the Jaycar Speedo corrector kit. https://www.jaycar.com.au/speedo-corrector-module-for-cars/p/AA0376?pos=1&queryId=88be0ef7c2dc84f96cf96bd17b61361f&sort=relevance&searchText=speedo Whilst i understand the speed "input" is pin 19, I need to clarify what pin "30" and "31", that being the speedo output, does to the cluster. Jaycar's instructions are: But the 34 cluster has both 2 pulse and 8 pulse output. Ay ideas?

I recently did the 4.11's in the 6 speed Getrag (34 GTR). I already have a responsive setup using a GTX3576 gen 2. I actually agree with you on some of this. YES, It makes a difference, but it's not some magical thing like Motive make it out to be. I still think it's worthwhile, and im glad i did it, but it's not this crazy WOW moment.

Massive thread bump. Anyone know if the speed signal input/output wire (pins 30 and 31) is the same for a 34 GTR ? Have recently changed to 4.11's in the Getrag.

Pretty sure i've posted my graphs in the past on a thread about GTX3576 VS GTX3076 or something. Note - Hub Dyno. So an approx conversion at say 1000 axle rpm speed x 1:1 gear ratio x 3.54 diff ratio (R34 Getrag) = 3540rpm or there abouts for 21+ psi of boost. In the real world, im not sitting there staring at my boost gauge while driving, but i've had -9's in the past too, and i prefer the single.

I'm in Sydney. Im sure we can try figure something out. I'll more than likely be at this years GTR festival and *may* do Motorkhana.

I was told to go a GTX3576R Gen2 on my 34 - Stock RB26 bottom end but with a refreshed head, baby HKS Cams, flex tune, usual mods. Have a 4 inch dump, 3.5inch exhaust running through 2 massive Reaper engineering mufflers. Very very quiet, until the wastegate and screamer come on song (which i love). I couldn't be happier with the boost threshold, transient response and driveability. My goal was to try and compete with R35's for street duties (R35's are still quicker down low compared to my setup). Cant do much with my tune locked... But datalogging, doing a few pulls in 4th gear, last years winter, E85 and on flat highway loading the car up from 2400 rpm or so. MAP sensor showing 155.8 kPA at 3569rpm -which by google translation is 22.5psi of boost. Pretty responsive if you ask me. Tuner said on the dyno was getting full boost (around 26-27 psi by 3800rpm)

Watched the Motive build of that 34. Seeing this pic, didn't realise how bad/rusted out those strut towers were back then 🤮

Nice. I was hoping that was the answer 🙂

I kinda have an idea, and there is some bits and pieces on the forums about it. Looking to do the "Mines R34" diff gearing in the Getrag 6 speed. I want to retain the A-LSD in the Vspec more for the "PuRiTy" aspect of having a Vspec. Is it a matter of more or less just using the pinion and gears into the existing rear Diff housing? So: from an R33 or 32 GTR Front diff pinion/gears Rear diff pinion/gears Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different? Is that basically it?

Want safety - Buy an early/ mid 2000's Volvo 🙃

Seems to be more related to when the car is shutoff as opposed to running? Opposing side to that is if the turbo is also water cooled, the water should in theory take out the excess heat anyway.. *After you've let the car cool down* Similar to the BOV VS No BOV debate

I can't seem to find many topics on this on SAU. So there are 2 sides to this story that seem to play out. 1. They reduce radiant engine bay heat while increasing turbo efficiency by keeping heat in the turbine housing. 2. Can cause oil "coking" of the bearing due to keeping excess heat in/around the housing Have watched a couple of vids by Engineering Explained and the like on YT, and performance wise, they seem to work well. Don't seem to have much real world data on the oil coking bit. Many RB workshops run them in Aus and all over the world. Anyone have real world experiences with Turbo bearings failing due to Beanies? P.S (i recently bought a turbo beanie and running it on a water cooled GTX3576 gen2)