djvoodoo

The Tommyfyeah saga really puts things into perspective for some of these YT'ers. I have a genuine interest in AdamLZ's Channel. I think his story is legitimately cool. He is someone who actually put in the time and effort, went to business school, got the formula right. Don't know what goes on behind the scenes though.

SOLD

Bump - $3000

Work Zistance 3 piece wheels in 19 x 10.5 +12. Suit R33 and R34 GTR but could work on other JDM cars Bought new from JDM Concept in 2019. Buffed step lip (86mm dish), AHG2 Bronze centre disk with silver pierce bolts and red centre caps. These are almost the same as Work VSXX, but the centre hub is flat vs a bowl shape. Tyres are Kuhmo PS91 in 265x35x19. They are in fair condition but have some camber wear and are getting on in age (made in 2017). I am willing to sell without tyres and reduce the price. Barrels could do with a degrease, but otherwise barely a mark on them. Would consider swaps for a Virgin RB26 block in good condition. Pick up only. $3250 - negotiable Sutherland Shire, NSW

OP sounds like he is from the US. Didn't think an R34 of any calibre was legal in the states anyway, except for *some* specialty GTR variants (midnight purple etc)

Mates and I were talking about this over the weekend. Part of the reason why there are no more "home built" engines are due to workshops turning people away for liability and insurance. I.E - If i build an engine in my back shed, and the workshop puts it on the dyno and it blows up due to a mechanical issue, who foots the bill? I mean.. You are the one who built it at home, the workshop would have no idea what or how you've built the car. These days the workshops don't want that headache or social media scrutiny. XYZ shop blew up my motor, they are shit. They would rather have you front up the money, they build it, warranty it etc. The workshop can then at least give you some assurances that the motor will last, and if it does blow up, then you, the customer should have some financial recovery of any costs involved in a rebuild.

Apart from WA, most of Australia has been in some form of lockdown or restricted movement over the past 6 months. Most cruises and meets have been cancelled. Add to that, parts shortages, shipping delays globally, manufacturing costs increasing, metal and alloy trade wars with China etc etc, it's taking months for fabrication and work in general to be finished by workshops. You also have labour shortages and people who have lost jobs etc due to Covid. The forums in general have also slowed down as people move onto social media platforms (Insta/ Facebook groups) Plus - These days most workshops are posting their customers dyno sheets on their own Facebook pages as a way to promote their business. Think bigger picture.

The major RB workshops are really busy, with waiting times in the several months. Alot of owners are doing full engine rebuilds while in the covid lockdown periods.

Same can be said for housing. a 1960's 3 bedroom Fibro house full of asbestos was cheap as chips 20 years ago. Try find one under 1 million dollars in Sydney today. Almost impossible. It's just supply, demand, inflation and desirability. Does it make sense. Nope, but it is what it is.

Thread revival. Anyone have any tips for undoing the 12mm nut when it's been rounded off? I can't get much leverage to hit the nut from another hex side that is ok. I've tried some thin vice grips but the nut is too rounded. Will try a flare nut spanner when i get to Repco/ Bunnings etc but seeing if anyone has any tricks/ home made tools?

Looking for an RB26 short block in good condition. Do not need crank/pistons/rods, just the block is fine. Bore doesn't need to be perfect as it will be machined to suit 86.5mm Pistons. Would prefer a later model block, I.E out of a 94 year 32, or an 33 /34 Located in Sydney.

I hope the workshop in question admitted their mistake and intend to fix free of charge at least?

For the OP's purpose, yes just get any decent muffler you can afford, doesn't have to be JDM fanboi brands. In reality the sound can slightly differ between them though. Quality of packing, How the packing is wound, Type of packing (Fibreglass wool, ceramic wool, stainless wool) can change the sound of a muffler. Hell, even the size and shape of the perforated tubing inside the muffler can change the note. Some are high pitched, some are deep and smooth, and some will blow the ass end out when you 2step limiter at the local cars and coffee. Personally for a Non turbo, try find one that has a smooth deep tone, which would be your large oval shaped mufflers like Magnaflow, Xforce etc. The fart cannon will sound shit.

GTX3576R gen2 T3 open scroll RB26, stock bottom end, average compression with reco head and bits n pieces up top, cams etc. 440 odd kw at the hubs. Don't have a boost gauge apart from the 34 GTR MFD, but on the Haltech, E60% ethanol in winter, 152.2 Kpa at 3615rpm.

If you are looking at it from a purely 'investment' angle, then find a low KM example with all logbooks, export certs, stock everything including engine numbers, store it in a garage and don't drive it.. Ever.. Then sell in 15 yrs time.

What happens when you crack your block (Which will happen at some point with an RB 🙂 ) Are you then going to try find another period correct block? Or buy a new one, Because you'd certainly be waiting a while for a 'period correct' block to show up in a for sale marketplace.

Pretty sure Hawkins and his R32 made over 500kw on the 'standard head' without it breaking

Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.

Question. Would you need to have the car retuned if using a plug n play fast air temp sensor? Like the below? https://www.dahtoneracing.com/online-store/Dahtone-Racing-RB26-plug-and-play-fast-response-IAT-sensor-p200603263 Having a Haltech CAN gauge vs MFD intercooler sensors on the 34R, i notice an approx 25-30 degree difference between the IAT sensor vs Intercooler sensor (Intercooler reads 30 odd degrees vs 50-60Deg on the IAT) Since the Haltech has been tuned to drop timing etc on air temp, i'm certainly feeling a drop in power due to heat soak of the IAT.

When i emailed Garrett 6 months ago..

I emailed both Garret (USA) and GCG. They both said the same thing, that it is a-5 and the tag association of GT25** and GT28** is somewhat of an argument. Not saying you are wrong man, just going off the *experts* advice and the physical measurements i did of the compressor inducer and the turbine exducer using verniers. I put them side by side a set of HKS GTSS turbos and i can say that the 2560 was noticeably larger in every way and matched the -5 specs. Here's another thread with a brand new turbo marked as 2560:

I have since sold these, but there was alot of confusion. I emailed Garrett and was told the GT2560 IS the -5. I can also confirm that the turbine exducer is 47mm, the same as the -5. The -7 turbine exducer is 5mm smaller.

But buying a bottle of milk @ $2.00 vs buying a car @ $35,000 is quite different. Seems fine to me if you want to haggle with a large cost, but pay fixed for small goods.

Do they even teach English in school these days?

And LZ's will have Vcam, so hard to compare amongst the gen pop with basic mods.