djvoodoo

Nope, no overheating problem. Cooling system is fine. After taking all your feedback on board, i will be going with a Tridon T"stat - 71 degree item. But, for shits and giggles because i have the Nismo T"stat lying around, I chucked it in anyway today to see how much difference it really makes. On idle sat at roughly 70-72 degrees, and cruising and giving it a bit water temps were between 78-80 Not overly cold, but still on the colder side of temps.

Yes, hand controller does show this. My settings are: 80+ 1.00 1.00 50+ 1.03 1.07 30+ 1.06 1.21 10+ 1.25 1.46 -10 1.50 1.75 -30 1.59 2.00

Car is not overheating. At idle stays at about 89 deg, and cruising between 89-92 depending on weather and style of driving. My tuner mentioned that the thermostat is possibly sticking as when tuning he noticed the bottom hose didn't seem to warm up alot. I had the opportunity to but the nismo item so i did! Might end up selling it, but going to speak with my tuner first.

Yep low temp - 65 degrees. The car is running an a power FC, so i would have thought the standard ECU cold start/ enrichment ratios won't be affected from lower temp thermo? What are your opinions on this?

Yep, I have no problem locating it, but getting the tools to undo the thermo housing is a pain in the ass. Should i try using a spanner from underneath the car? I just can't reach the bolt directly under the intake

Thread bump. I have a nsimo thermostat ready to go in mine, but find it almost impossible to reach the top bolts which is directly under the intake manifold & next to the fuel lines. Any tips?

I'll be saving up for some -7's or -9's after Xmas, so as long as they hold out for a few months it should be fine Will hook it up to another boost gauge and have a run as well, see how much out the gauge is/isn't

Have read many topics on grenading ceramic turbos when pushed above 1 bar etc. Wanting to prolong the life of mine, was curious as to how cautious I should be with my standard boost gauge reading vs dyno reading. My r34 is running stock boost (without the restrictor) Dyno chart shows a peak of around 14.5 (1bar) dropping to 13.5 at redline. But my boost display reads quite high between (1.10 & 1.17 bar or maxing about 16.5-17psi) when i give it a bit of a hit. Would I be better going with the dyno readings as a safe measurement as I'm sure the boost gauge display is less accurate? I know the ideal win is going an EBC or boost control kit with the Power FC but want SAU opinions.

R34 GTR Vspec Standard except for: 1 bar boost (restrictor removed) Apexi Power FC Catco metal cat Apexi N 1 cat back Tuned by Paul at Pulse Racing Wasn't expecting this much power atw..... Not sure if inflated but Def happy with the response. Pulls much harder and feels smooth.

Yep, that would have been no fuel/ air con gas removed etc. 60 odd l fuel tank, so yea 60kg extra when full!

I had my R34 Vspec complied in June this year. Tare weight according to compliance details is 1520KG

Everyone understands the need to put food on the table and pay the bills. We are not questioning that aspect of running a business nor the hardships that you face. What consumers are being fed up with is dealerships knowingly and willingly adverstising cars that are not in the condition as described. As a dealer, you go through the auctions just like any other individual, you see the auction sheets and paperwork and you inspect the car. BUT When you try and resell an "R" grade car with multiple panels replaced, 100XXX on the clock and then knowingly advertise it as "mint, mint, mint no accident damaged car" with less than 60K what did you expect? The world is shrinking, and there is no such thing as privacy anymore!!! it's naieve to think consumers are gullible. Consumers are now smarter than the average retailer!!!!

In accounting terminology, a car is a "depreciating asset". That said, some simply depreciate better over time. I shudder at the fact you can buy a brand new Hyundai and it looses half of it's value after the first couple of years of ownership, in fact, you can buy late 2007-2010ish commodore for less than a 99 r34 gtt. You should not be buying a car on resale principle alone.... Unless it's an actual classic that is an "appreciating" asset, certainly not a run of the mill Gtst/gtt. R34 is generally better equipped, doesn't look as dated as the 33, and being newer with the NEO motor, is probably more reliable and economical.

this thread delivers

Possibly a 2000' series 2 GTR registered in Japan in 2001?

http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/reading-the-riot-act-to-dodgy-car-dealers-over-odometer-tricks/story-fni0cx12-1226759295622

Are you sure his Skyline is Turbo? lol You need to be more specific mate. Your question is like me calling a doctor and saying i have a problem, please fix............ With no other info how are we supposed to help???

So are you saying you have 1 pair of meisters and 1 pair of equips?????????? The pic still shows 4 individual wheels, not in pairs...... Pretty confusing dude.

Back on topic, another thing I have noticed on the street is I'm not seeing as many UNIT stickers/ Southern cross stickers or mad hectic Monster energy stickers on back windows anymore (and I live in a very aussie beach town in Sydney) 2-3 years ago, every nutter in either (a) A flat bed ute (b) Commo or Falcon Had at least 1 of these features..... Actually don't see as many JDM as Fk etc etc Hella Flush stickers anymore either.

Legend!!! Well now I know. I've popped it open and now i get a nice induction noise and it feels a little punchier :-) free power upgrade lol

I'll prob do that But I am still curious as to why it's blanked off. Keep it under the 280HP rule? less airflow, less noise perhaps? Any case, it's very trivial and really doesn't impact my current power output.

Ed Lee's has a public facebook page. Im suprised no-one has bombarded his page with the auction sheet of the Supra. No doubt it would be deleted though!!!!

That's the funny thing though... While it does go to the outer gaurd, it's actually blanked off. There is no airflow to the gaurd, unless you cut out the plastic end cap (see pic 2) The car is stock except for exhaust/ boost restrictor removed. Getting Power FC and tune done in a few weeks.

Hi all So I was cleaning my airflow meters (r34gtr) and on the airbox I noticed what looks to be an acoustic silencer piece which connects to the main box. Pics attached. It is easily removed but was curious. Other than deadening the Bov noise coming through the air filter, would this act as a restriction to airflow? Does anyone know it's original purpose on the RB26? I've removed the piece and went for a drive. No real noticeable difference except for noise. But it is 30 degrees so wasn't going to go nuts

Yes, you would need camber + guard work... those sizes are GTR sizing