djvoodoo

Wow, it def seems pretty crazy. Learn something new everyday.

To Moodles2, It was happening prior to the Walbro pump install, and if anything, it's getting too much fuel rather than not enough. the Pump was installed by Autosport engineering, who I dare say know what their doin. It wasn't a backyard job. To Scotty, I haven't checked if the Injectors are standard. I would assume so as but will check that out for sure. My thoughts are it's not necessarily the ECU at fault here. yes i kno that their is a safe map for knock etc with the Nissan standard unit, but there is no way that the map is "lets drop AFR to 10:1 through the entire rev range"

Yo yo. R34 GTsT. 3" turbo back exh- Walbro 500 hp pump- JustJap Turnflow FMIC- Mushroom filter in box- Standard ECU, Injectors and AFM- Greddy profec B- Greddy RS BOV plumbed back into intake. I've been having some real headaches with how my car puts down the power. In a nutshell, anything over 7psi (my Hi boost is set to 9,5) turns my car into a pig rich fuel guzzling, retardation machine. At first I thought it was R&R, and changed my plugs, AFM, and got hold of another standard ECU. Coilpacks are fine, and no boost leaks as boost comes on consistent and strong. So I took it to Pulse Racing to see how it looked on the dyno. Check out the pics attached. Their Dyno reads at it's lowest A/F point of 10:1. My cars AFR flatlines at 10:1 or possibly lower right from the beggining of the run. Check out the crazy power dips to and a max of 126 rwkw. I need some help in getting some ideas what the problem could be. Replacement standard ECU made no difference, and simply "chucking in" an aftermarket item isn't going to fix the problem either... Tuner recons it's not the 02 sensor, coils, plugs, boost control, but pretty much tried to "sell" me the idea of an aftermarket ECU, which really, is a bandaid fix to the actual issue. I want to diagnose the cause of the issue. Any help is appreciated Cheers

I'm pretty sure me and my mates went into a 3 level adult shop in Akihabara... Weird shit, posters of chicks shitting on people. They wouldn't let one of our lady friends up to the 3rd level either-- men only

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't "retune" a standard R34ECU without a daughterboard/flash. They might be able to take out timing etc mechanically, but that's about it. As with all the answers 1. Get a standard air box, with snorkel- EPA can and will say "no" to a pod in a box. Better to get standard to pass. 2. Get a SMIC from the wreckers 3. Get a Nissan standard Plumb back "recirc" valve- wreckers as well- takes about 10 mins to install dude 4. Change your number plates- it's def possible the previous owners have a bad driving record 5. Go to an exhaust shop, get them to check Decibel level. If under, it doesn't matter if it's a cannon or oval exhaust, it will be legal. As long as it doesn't sit low your fine

Zutututututututututu. Can you imaging Paul Walker yelling out to Vin- "Dose it bro, Dose it"

It's all right. I ain't losin'. This fool is running a Honda 2000

Hey guys Sorry I don't have pics right now. Will have to upload some when I get home from work I have an R32 standard GTR Intercooler in good condition for sale - $150.00 Only reason why I'm selling is because I ended up going with a turn-flow IC as it was less hassle for me I also have an S14 series 1 ECU with Dr Drift remap. Was installed on my old S14 a long time ago. Base tune was around mods- IC, turbo back zorst, 14psi, Walbro 500hp pump, pod filter. Made around 185rwkw at the time - $100.00 Send me a PM or reply. Cheers Dave

Actually, one thing I'd like to see is more "real" driving from the actors. There was too much CGI or computer generated scenes, especially in 2fast2furious, the "drifiting" looked like they were floating on top of the bitumen... I'd also like to see less "neon lights" less "vinyl graphics" and more cleaner, non mutilated kit designs.

Looking for the above ECU.

Would you sell parts separately? I'm after the ECU only.

No shit, had no idea it was confirmed!!! The first couple of photos though.... Looks like a movie set in the bronx.. Haha, gangsta as

As the topic states If you were in charge of directing the next FnF movie. What cars would you put in it? What would the plot be? What location would you shoot? Sorry guys, I'm bored at work and couldn't think of anything else to do.............

Ken Block is more than just a WRC driver, he's the creator of the DC shoes brand and an entrepreneur, hence why all his cars and vids have DC as sponsor. If you guys have foxtel, check out Rob Dyrdek's Fantasy factory, he makes a few appearances with Dyrdek with the WRX and a Go kart called Gymkhana 2.1

Mate I am having exactly the same problem as you (but with an R34) running about 7.5-8psi on Greddy profec II, full service, coils, plugs changed and tested. Bought a new AFM and just waiting for it to be delivered. Will let u kno if it makes any difference

Haha, Nice 1. Yea I'm thinkin all I need is a smaller or thinner socket. Thanks for the input fellas

R34 doesn't have a cradle as such, the coils are individually bolted. Picture below might help

Extension I have, the problem is the socket itself. It's too 'fat' and it hits the cover casing so I can't actually get the socket over the bolt. Might just pop into a hardware store and see if I can get a thinner socket Thanks bud

Happy Friday people's Trying to put new Sparkies in my R34 Neo T, but having trouble undoing the coilpack bolts to get to them. The two bolts that hold the coil in place are literally mm from the cover casing and I can't get a ratchet head to fit in there. Tried using a spanner but don't have enough leverage to get in there either. What tool is the right tool?

Yea, you've got some good logical points there. No point in assumptions, may as well get it on the dyno, check the A/FR's, clean AFM etc and then deal with it once I have the results Cheers mate

No missfire, I've replaced the sparkies with BCPR6ES .8 gap as well just to be sure. I'll have a good strong pull up until about 4000rpm, then no power till about 5700rpm, then power comes back on to redline. I can also tell in fuel consumption that it's running rich, plus the carbon soot I can see. Coils seem fine, haven't noticed the common R34 "Slip TCS" light issue that is synonymous with the coilies, but then again, I haven't had a multimeter/voltage test done on them. Will prob get that and an AFM test done to rule those bits out. Otherwise it's r&r.. Just gives me an excuse to get an aftermarket ECU really lol.

Krafty kuts 2009 set at Snowbombing Austria. It's killer, sets the mood for any Skyline

Hello fellow sau members Background: Mods Turnflow IC Turbo back zorst Standard turbs Standard ECU, injectors, blah blah Walbro 500hp pump greddy profec II About a month or two ago (lets say winter) my ECU has been going into R&R with anything past 7.5psi. My Greddy Pro B is set to lo of 8, hi of 10. (Prior to Winter it was hitting 10psi with no r&r). It's now Spring and temps above 20deg and it's still going r&r Now I understand what R&R is, I have been to a reputable tuner/mech to check for vacuum/boost/intake leaks/AFM etc etc and understand that the air density in Winter may cause r&r amongst other things Was wondering if anyone has a spare R34 ECU to do the old switcharoo to see how it reacts to my setup?? Curious to see is all Located southern Syds

Hey mate, is this still for sale?

99 R34 3rd owner and legit 44000 K's. It's almost brand spankin new