Spurdo

yep. tonnes of them were manual, i also had a factory manual gts coupe some years ago.

Hey Jae. Did you get anywhere with this? I'm also located in chch, happy to throw my scan tool on it and have a look if you want

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/

26yo male.. last time i asked for a quote from nac was last nov/dec for: R32 gts-t coupe rb25 turbo. manual usual mods. h/d clutch, r33 gearbox, link computer, coilovers, full 3.5" exhaust, t3/t04 turbo (garrett) sound setup value arond $2000 car covered for maximum $10k was going to cost $1200. so i parked it up instead..

sorry to hijack thread a little but do you guys know the deal with adjusting the damping? apparently they are 16-stage adjustable but on mine the nut goes around 28 clicks.. is this normal? on tein ss btw. R32 2wd

gearbox doesn't need to come out. nor should you need to drain the oil first. at least i didn't with mine. i've heard of other situations where people pulled the shaft out and get a nice sticky shower, probably on other vehicles.

just undo the bung on the side of the gearbox (with the car level of course). stick your finger in the hole, there should be oil right up to the hole, but no more. if you have to shove your whole finger in there and reach down to find it, then it needs a top up. i had the same issue recently. the seal itself is cheap and easy to replace, but the exhaust and drive shaft need to come out to do it.

pretty sure most people get all the parts to match the engine i.e have all S2 engine, coils, harness, ecu = no problems. dont know for sure whether s1 ecu works with s2. why didn't u look into this beforehand and just gone with the tried and true methods?

yeah that or a lot of people (including myself) use bcpr6es. im not the fountain of knowledge on what heat range is better, depends on usage i guess. and as with any modified engine, just stick with coppers. platinums etc are a waste of money because modified engines chew through plugs regardless what type they are so you might as well buy the cheapies.

+1 screamers are for shitkunce. dont be a shitkunt

there is one just like this sitting at my dads workshop, i think it's even the same year. i've often thought about buying it. he's reconditioned it for the owner a while ago so i know its in good shape mechanically, but the guy's health hasnt been the greatest so he's not likely to ride it again.. dad seems to think i could probably buy it for around $1500 would this be a good thing? only thing wrong with it is its missing the front/side fairings

yup the slushbox would add a second to the time easy. dont forget you've lost a whole gear ratio, meaning the auto's ratios are longer to compensate. have you even driven a manual? theres a lot of people on here (including myself) who happily daily their manual skylines. just dont put a hell aggressive clutch in it.

yeah mine takes not long at all really. driving at suburban speeds maybe about 2mins and its up to temp or if i start it up and jump straight onto the open road (100kph) it comes up real quick yeah maybe 60 seconds

yeah the bcpr6es is probably one of the most popular with rb's, if not the most popular. general consensus is usually that platinums are a complete waste of money, especially on tuned engines which will chew out plugs regardless what type they are.

who quoted 6.18 seconds? and was that specifically for an auto? in the r33's day the difference between auto and manual times were quite substantial. 6.18 seconds, to me, sounds a bit ambitious for an auto. for a stock manual in good order i would think 6.18 would be about right.

yeah me and my mechanic friend did this and we removed a shitload of lines from it too. feels good getting rid of redundant equipment. for anyone else replacing the whole subframe in the r32.. here are the bushes you need to replace the tie rod ends.. nissan oem 555152-35F00.. obviously, you need two of them. they are just under $12usd each when i ordered mine from amayama.

hey those bushes i have to install in place of the old hicas tie rod ends.. does anyone know exactly which bushes to install there? a part number/link to product would be great! i replaced the subframe over the weekend and forgot to organise those beforehand. we jimmied up some makeshift bushes just so i could drive the car home but i need some proper bushes asap

yeah i mounted mine up the top of the bonnet latch bracket. on one side theres a little hole that part of the sensor can go through to sit it in place, then i just threw a zip tie or two around it.

didn't you say it changes with acceleration.. so would i be correct in assuming what you mean is it will change with RPM? i've had this noise before in a previous r32 it was just some kind of electrical noise coming from the speakers, it would go up and down with the rpm of the engine and turning volume up/down on the stereo had no effect on it. a while ago i read that it may be something to do with having a shitty worn out battery and having ancillary devices (like head units, and in turn, speakers) getting their power not so much from the battery, but having to rely on the flow directly from the alternator, which might explain why the noise changes with RPM? i'm no auto electrician so could be a complete load of crap but sounded semi-legit to me, as i know my battery at the timewas definitely not in great shape. i wouldn't think its the fuel pump because im pretty sure they stay at a constant work load? they dont pump more/less as required, thats what the fuel regulator in the engine is for... if you can hear the fuel pump, then it will always make the same noise. nothing will change it's volume, and once you start moving any road noise will usually drown it out

when inserting, make sure theres lube on the contact surface. put it in by hand until it makes contact, finish with a bit of a heave on it. never had an issue getting off.

yeah sweet. i guess its just the same job only it gets real simple at the rear end, just out with the old in with the new, then make the changes to the p/s lines and done.

i've managed to acquire an actual non-hicas rear subframe.. has anyone done it that way? if so is there a tutorial for that?