Spurdo

this reminds me! im sure a year or so ago i read somewhere that polyphony were devolping software that would utilise a usb camera and could analyse the players eyes and wherever you tried to look it would shift the view accordingly. i forgot all about this until now actually.. has anyone else heard of this?? or am i dillusional. surely it could be done.. although it would have to be a pretty high res camera to accurately track eyeball movements

next time you check fault codes on a Z32.. Code 95 = ECU Overheat.. Engine Out!

some cars just dont show up. given that any copy of nissan fast distributed outside nissan motor co is strictly illegal, we are lucky to be able to use it to any extent at all, so we dont complain when it doesnt seem to have a record of a few vehicles. i'm in the same boat as you, my R32 supposedly doesnt exist either. alternatively you can post up the model code instead and fast can decipher that, it will tell us everything except production date, exterior colour and interior colour. put that up and i'm sure one of us will be happy to oblige

nice!!! i like what you did there.. just screw up a ball of newspaper and wrap it a hundred times so its the size of a basketball, sure it'll take all afternoon to wrap it but the priceless look on all the little cunce faces would be so worth it!! call me a cold hearted bastard if you like, your probably right. what can i say? i hate kids

yeah good call.. the eyes will move a lot. i guess as time goes on and polyphony digital receive feedback they'll release updates/patches for it. im guessing if enough people suggest it they would make the cockpit view have dynamic sight where the view may alter depending on your position in relation to the corner, just like in real life. that would be sweet. but then that brings about a new set of problems.. such as did they capture enough image data of the interior of each car in order to pull that off, or did they only capture just enough interior to cater for the existing cockpit view in a fixed position?? and lets not turn this thread into a wank-off over lap times

yea.. good call. that never crossed my mind as im far better at grip driving in gran turismo than i am at drift so i seldom do drifting. it would be awesome if they could incorporate different styles of drifting into it. in the game, both hands are firmly planted on the wheel at all times but it would make things more interesting if it gave you the option of using the slip steering method, where you essentially put the power on, get the arse end sliding, let go of the wheel then catch it when the car is at the desired angle and adjust throttle to suit. but since you need to accurately steer every little bit of it, i find it just too difficult to keep a steady throttle/steering with the controller. i guess thats where the value of the wheel and pedals come in, you can hold consistent throttle and steering values for a smother racing line etc rather than simple on or off throttle that i normally have to contend with lol

also im interested to know what peoples thoughts are on whether using a good wheel/pedal set is worthwhile, does it make good lap times more achievable? at the moment im just using the controller, but im quite keen on giving that HKS controller a go if it actually comes out.. i've seen no mention of it from retailers in nz yet.. shit i'll even get one shipped over from oz if i have to

so far i've found the cockpit view pretty awesome despite all the complaining thats happening about it. and my flat screen is only 26" and i sit pretty far away from it, yet i've posted several top 1000, top 500-300 ish times using the cockpit view on prologue. i dont see the issue having straight line only vision from the cockpit, even the front bumper view is still only straight line. if you think about it when you drive a real car at high speeds you might notice that you will probably never turn your head more than 5-10degrees in any direction from straight ahead anyway. and because gt5 is in 16:9 aspect you have a pretty realistic in-game vision given that 16:9 is pretty close to the aspect that you get from human vision anyway. i'll assume every one of you has seen on tv when they have a v8 supercar race every now and then they'll broadcast a view of the driver in any given car, you dont see him making drastic head movements when approaching a corner. like i mentioned before, if the head moves then it doesnt move far. and the view you do get from those subtle movements i'm pretty happy thats pretty much what we're getting from the view in GT5 cockpit. piece.

ok so after having a good read im still a little confused.. my headlights are the black jdm "shark eye" types (pictured) all the "blue/white" halogen bulbs i've tried in the past are complete shit, they just colour the outer lens a light blue but the actual shine is still pretty yellow.. very minimal difference over standard bulbs. i would probably go for 4300k or 6000k.. what exactly would i need to do to my headlights so they dont cause glare etc?

+1!!!! wtf are you doing they look like 175s or something! none of them sit flush. the coupes pull it off a little better because they usually have the matching side skirts to go with it, IMO they still look good on 4 doors. well.. as good as one can look being a 4 door lol

yea that must have been what i saw.. gtr stuff

christchurch r32 gts-t coupe

im in the same boat as your friend.. although not from the lack of licence.. more due to economic reasons lol. theres no straight answer for this really. depends on a few things although 6 months isnt really all that long. i think the things you already mentioned almost covers it. but yes it would be a good idea to run it and have it driven maybe once every month or every second month or whatever he can be bothered doing. the tyres will probably go down slowly and if they go down enough to get a good droop on and the car just sits there on them that can permanently distort the shape of them and they'll be rubbish when he goes to drive it again. when i bought my current skyline, it had been sitting untouched for 18 months (dont know if it was inside or outside) and within a few months of owning it, the head gasket blew. now that engine was supposedly only built about 6 months prior to going into storage. but yea i pretty much just do what you mentioned. get it out of the weather and disconnect the battery. although i do take it for a quick squirt up the road every month or 2 so the head gasket doesnt disintegrate again

yea nothing special shown in fast. pretty sure the likes of tommy kaira, mines etc worked their magic after nissan spat them out the factory. unlike v-specs, n1s, nurs and m-specs which were all built to be that right from the start

ive got bilsteins they are freaking awesome!! they are crazy responsive for a shock that doesnt throw you around and rattle your teeth on public roads. from what i've seen though they have been quite expensive, i've only seen other sets 2nd hand and they were about 2-3x the price of kybs and the like. probably worth it though if you drive your car with any sort of gusto. my only issue with them is the rears in my r32.. the sheer height of the shock means that in order for me to have a legally captive spring at full extension of the shock, the car has to ride bloody high at the back. im talking probably as high or higher than stock. maybe nisskid knows a way around this? at the moment i've got some king spring super lows on them with a bunch of washers packing down the bump stop so as to keep the spring captive.. i know its a bit dodgy but is there a more legit way to do it??

yeah you probably dont wanna be under one of those suckers by yourself when it comes free

kyb are usually about the best value for money as long as your just after a stock replacement. ive got some rear kyb's lying around somewhere i think they were about $190nzd trade price for the pair back in 2007. probly doesnt help u much lol

i've seen many sets of shocks for sale over the years that were claimed to fit both r33 and r34.. so i'd assume they are interchangeable

pfft. who needs a bonnet lever on an r32?? just stick a few fingers in the gap between the bonnet and the bumper, unless you have serious sausage fingers you'll be able to reach the cable, give it a quick pull outwards and the bonnet pops straight up. serious security flaw in the R32. if thats the only way you can access your engine bay then u might wanna leave it as is. otherwise anyone else with an r32 should zip tie the cable back to the frame so its unreachable not something the authorities need to know, should you pull the "broken bonnet lever" excuse.

another possibility could be the ball bearings in your alternator. will have no effect on the driveability of the car. mine did this once. when they come loose they make a hell of noise flying around inside the alternator and will soon kill your alternator altogether and battery goes flat and engine stops. just a possibility

both of my skylines have done this. yes the switches fail.. dont take it to an auto electrician i did that the first time with my first skyline and got charged $400, they got a genuine one ex japan for $300 odd and supposedly the other $100 for diagnosing/fitting. next time it happened i got a 2nd hand one for $15.. took 15 minutes to fit myself.. go figure. even if you go through a few 2nd hand ones its still miles cheaper than going new. even though the bulb appears fine, try another bulb that you know works, just to rule it out completely. one time i thought the switch was gone again but i still had 12v at the headlight although the bulb looked good i stuck another one in it and away it went.

not sure why i didnt think to do this before, i just looked up the parcel shelf on nissan fast and the whole parcel shelf (metal + carpet/chipboard) parts are the exact same in all R32's. sedan, coupe, gtr, they are identical. this means you shouldnt have to look hard to source a replacement from another car

im talking about both the carpet, chipboard and metal frame underneath. the previous owner hacked up the lot. nice work on your shelf that looks nice! so it looks like if i want the factory holes i'll have to do what tridentt150v suggested.. if its too munched to fix properly then i'll want to go down the path of replacing the metal frame entirely which would probably involve getting a donor car to cut one out of