Spurdo

where do you get a c's short shifter? and what do they cost?

yea it really is a "how long is a piece of string?" type question. too many variables to give any sort of answer. just keep your current clutch until it starts slipping

what exactly do you mean by "double" synchros?? i've rebuilt my own rb25 box, pic attached of it during re-assembly, you can see some of the synchro's there but there is only one baulk ring per gear?? and reverse does not have a synchro, hence why it wont engage nicely (if at all) when the vehicle is moving

interesting. i wouldnt worry about it leaking. if anything having it sit lower at the back will press it harder against the seals, making a leak less likely. although if the gap there is big enough water might get into the roof cavity and eventually cause rust. i cant remember if the one in my r32 does the same thing. might have a look next time i see it. just had a thought. in my r32 there is a switch that tilts the back of the sunroof upwards, from the closed position. assuming the r34 has the same function why dont you press the button for a split second just enough to raise the rear of the sunroof enough so its flush? but if its actually supposed to sit sunken in at the back then raising it may mis-align it with the rails inside meaning it wont slide back into the roof from the flush position.. proceed with caution

anything can be fixed if you throw enough money at it. put some photos up so we can get a better idea

ok so after i bought my car and went to put some decent speakers in the rear and i realised that some farking moron had hacked up the back parcel shelf to put some cheap shitty 6x9 speakers in.. now this really shits me. i get really fussy about things like that, even with some decent 6x9s, i still cant secure them down properly because previous owner made such a dog's breakfast out of the speaker holes and screw mounts. the speaker holes are very much beyond repair. even though no one sees them, it still annoys the crap out of me. i want the factory 6" holes back, like how nissan made it. has anyone else ever replaced the parcel shelf in the back of an r32? is it a bolt off/bolt on job or is there cutting and welding involved?

your welcome

i've heard plenty of times that the chinese rb25 plenums are rubbish because holes and things dont always line up nicely like they should. but despite this i've seen heaps of them used with good results. as for the rail, thats probably the most basic item in your engine bay all it has to do is hold fuel pressure and i'd bet my bottom dollar its absolutely identical in every way that counts. imagine the margin hks makes on something like a fuel rail. thats an enviable markup. i'd never trust chinese turbo's. most of them seem to make the car work.. but i've seen and heard of many cars with a very questionable response out of them. screw that.. i dont care if it gives an insane kick after 6000rpm.. i'm all about driveability.

yea. what he said ^ if you plan on keeping the car for some time then your better off getting it rebuilt, instead of replacing with another gearbox of unknown condition (highly likely been thrashed also) an r33 box will handle a fair bit more punishment then an r32 box and more or less just bolts up so if you can afford it, get one of those

looks like your suspensions are confirmed..

any and all rotating parts u get made should have been balanced during manufacturing.. if not then someone didnt do their job. how warm exactly is the gear stick? it shouldnt be much more than room ambient temp really. mine used to get warm when i had bad bearings in the gearbox that generated excess heat.. so if its getting warm you may have something else causing excess friction. im pretty sure some whines are fairly acceptable.. after my gbox rebuild it whines a little bit in gear but i dont get the excess heat or anything anymore. no matter what you do you'll pretty much never rebuild it to the exact standard the factory did. are you able to say with more certainty where the noise is coming from exactly? maybe take the boot off from around the bottom of the gearstick and then remove the rubber insulator, you should be able to see the tail shaft and the ground beneath it. go for a drive like that and that may give you a better idea where its coming from

i dont have experience with S2 coils in particular but do they not have the markings above the terminals regarding what each one is, just like S1 coils? e.g +, -, E? if so, theres your answer

^+1 attached screenshots from fast, lets play spot the difference.. if your observant, you might notice the only difference is one extra spacer and different speedo gear drive as the r33 is electronic speedo, not mechanical like r32

i believe they are interchangeable, when i bought my nismo flywheel the shop said it will fit any turbo RB engine. so the clutches must also be interchangeable as when i bought my car they said the clutch they put in was 2nd hand out of a gtr. so just use whatever you like. i'd use whatevers in the best condition

threads like this just make me lose faith in humanity. man theres some right cunce out there

that really depends. from what ive seen, there seems to be a direct correlation between the power produced and the length of time that engine lasted before it stuck a leg out of bed, or other catastrophic engine failure. nissan designed the stock rods to last indefinately at the stock power and tune (around 270hp). and if the engine wasnt modified and was maintained properly, it would likely do just that. anything done to increase the power figure will shorten the life of the rods, as well as any other parts subjected to the extra forces involved. yes you could likely achieve 400kw with stock rods on an rb25 (i have seen it done) but this would effectively make your engine a ticking time bomb. just when will it spit the dummy? who knows... an hour, a week, a month, six months? i believe the general rule of thumb with a stock internal rb25 is dont expect any more than 300kw out of it if you want any sort of reliability. another thing i dont understand is why people commonly replace stock pistons with forged pistons, and bolt them on to stock rods? your engine is only as strong as the weakest link. the pistons and rods are usually just that. so to go forged with one and not the other seems like an utter waste of time. yes your pistons can now handle twice the power, but your rods cant.. so you still cant safely go to higher power levels. can anyone explain why this is such common practice?

its perfectly normal for you to be able to turn the drive shaft by hand just a tiny bit in either direction, i believe thats caused by the gap in the teeth inside the diff. to my mind they cant be making contact 100% of the time or it would cause excessive friction when it comes under load. mine was doing this when i had just re-installed my gearbox after rebuilding it, so that rules out the gearbox. and when turning the driveshaft there was no movement in the half shafts so that only leaves the diff. im going to estimate the total free rotation of the driveshaft was about 10-15 degrees (give or take) i guess it would get worse in time as the diff wears out more? i havent a clue on the age of my diff

i think you'd want to know that he's absolutely 100% certain about these things, rather than "under the impression"

^ yea what he said. reverse has no synchro so you must be stopped completely to engage it. sometimes yea it will seem to not engage even though you've stopped, and often its just that your unlucky and have stopped right at the point where the teeth lockup against each other and wont mesh. if your on any sort of slope, let the car roll half an inch in either direction (or use 1st gear if on level surface and cant roll) then stop and try again. tends to work every time for me. ive also noticed in some of my cars that are a bit older and start doing this more frequently when the gear stick is at the point where it locks up going into reverse you can get away with letting the clutch out only just enough to kick the input shaft around 1/8 of a turn while you have light pressure on the stick pulling back into reverse and you'll find it slots straight in. carry on

r34s and some late r33s i believe use pull type clutches, unlike earlier models using push type. yea the pull types have always been much more spendy than the push types. im not 100% on whether the clutch is purely dictated by the gearbox. i think it might come down to the slave cylinder/clutch fork setup your working with, which probably wont come with the gearbox. im sure you could convert the pull type gear to push type, but the expense in parts may end up costing more than the difference between the push and pull type clutches, therefore making the conversion pointless. unless you were expecting to go through a few clutches lol

a lot of jap cars had these from the factory back in the day. they're meant to irritate you enough to make you slow down should you decide to exceed 100kph. easy to remove though. jesustittyfckingchrist are those things annoying. we've got an old corolla that belonged to my grandad that used to have one.. i didnt fancy hearing that thing carrying on for 4 hours straight at a time. it came out fairly soon after i got it

^+1!! haha! i did this once spent about 20mins trying to figure out why the park lights wouldnt turn off and i'd hit the spot light button by accident when going for the rear demister. makes you feel like a right twat when you realise

we just use plasticine, the cheap play-dough like stuff. pack the hole full of it, then get a bolt big enough in diameter to take up the whole space (but still not touch the sides) then hit the bolt in there lightly with a hammer and it comes out piece of cake. you have to keep filling the hole with more plasticine as the bush comes out

REPLACEMENT BEARINGS: NSK TM308-A-5NR C3 UR NSK 6308NR C3 NSK 62/32NR C3 NSK 63/22NR C3 nissan genuine: 32219-01G10AU REPLACEMENT BAULK RINGS (genuine): 32604-40P21 - 20080624 32604-23P60 - 20080918 32604-30P21 - 20080722 32604-30P20 - 20081022 32617-30P60 - 20081215 REPLACEMENT CIRLCIPS (genuine): (replace if at all overstretched) these may differ in thickness from gearbox to gearbox. the following was as required by mine. 32236-01G02 - LAY SHAFT REAR GASKETS (genuine): 32112-05U12 - FR COVER those are the part numbers i recorded from rebuilding my rb25 box. we went for nsk bearings from a local trade supplier rather than paying inflated prices for genuine nissan stuff which wouldn't have been any better in quality. one bearing i had to go genuine because the other supplier did not have it. also attached pic from fast for your reference

i had a very similar problem and it turned out to be bad coils. gets worse as you run more boost, and the sudden drop is very violent, mine also performed slightly better in colder conditions.. if its the coils then you run the risk of doing damage to your bearings if you continue to drive it like this. whatever it is, stay off the boost/revs until its fixed