Spurdo

welcome to the club

if it was oil the smoke would be blue-ish and the smell is very noticeable. if ur not familiar, it would smell like u were running very very rich and the back of the car sometimes gets dirty very quickly as the oil will form a greasy buildup on the surface.. the type you can write stuff on with ur finger lol

you say you currently have "non-branded" coils, does this mean stock? or do you mean aftermarket no-name coils. generally all the aftermarket coils perform very well and seem to all perform just as good as any other, brand seems to be irrelevant. its hard to define running "rough" through a forum. generally it should fire up and idle around 900-1000rpm from cold. the idle will come down as the engine warms up, if stock then warm idle should be about 600-700rpm, when cold it will run a little rich and i wouldnt be suprised if a 20yr old engine runs a little rough with a rich mixture. this soft pop/thumping noise you speak of could be a slight misfire.. if your still running factory coils then theres a good chance one or more of them is not working as well as it should. coils seem to be the cause of about 99% of misfires in rb engines. there are temporary cheap fixes for them, but sooner or later they do need to be thrown out and replaced. when was the last time you checked the plugs? i think thats the next leading cause of misfire. if engine is stock, gap 1.1mm or if running more boost gap them down to 0.8 or so. 1. splitfires.. yes they are good, but evidently no better than Yellow Jackets, JJR, or OEM nissan coils. 2. debatable.. i've read up on these in the past and while they sound good in theory, every example i've seen of these installed has made no difference to anything whatsoever. 3. same as 2. basically if somethings wrong with the car, treat the root cause of the problem. it's not like nissan had to use d-spark earth systems and max-electric flow wank wank systems to get the car to drive nicely out of the factory. just solve the problem and all will be well, no point in spending money on these ad-ons, i can almost guarantee you they won't solve your problems.

i guess someone died and left him some change, or maybe he mortgaged it

yea i've heard the supras were over 100k new, similar market as the 300zx etc were bloody expensive in their day. i was under the impression the FT-86 concept is toyota's next sportscar "for the people". the LF-A is for the elite that can afford ultra insane performance, and the ft-86 is the "affordable" sports car.

nice! thats encouraging

could be a number of things. possibly a big vaccuum leak. have you opened the lid yet to check for anything obvious? check all the vaccuum lines coming off the intake plenum make sure they'r hooked up. if they are then just look at all other lines/pipes you can see and make sure. physically grab any joins in the piping to make sure they'r secure and not loose. had this happen the day i got my r32 and it was after i'd wound the boost up a little and an intake pipe had popped off because some muppet hadn't secured it properly

i guess it depends how hardcore the installer went when they put it in. does it just have an adhesive securing it to the dash or does it have bolts going through the dash and secured by nuts on the other side? if its the latter then you cant do too much about holes it'll leave behind.. perhaps an upholstery specialist might have a suitable filler to use. also if this is the case then i think the whole upper dash will have to come out so you can get at the other side to loosen the nuts if your lucky and its just an adhesive, then the dash wouldn't have to come out, but you will have to loosen it off very gradually and carefully or you might pull up bits of the dash surface and it will look horrid afterwards. for an adhesive get some wd40 or crc 5.56 or a versatile citrus cleaner and squirt it in around it and after a minute or two it should start to break up the adhesive, allowing you to lift it up bit by bit and just keep squirting more as it comes off. concentrate on one edge as it comes up and just work your way to the other. dont pull too hard on it or you'll risk ripping up the upholstery surface, let the spray do the work for you and you just lift it off as it becomes free

^+1

lol yea the question may have been a potential feeding frenzy for the trolls. but hey we were all noobs once..

no i believe maklaw dug it up... tbh i dont even pay attention to the dates. i dont think i even pay attention to anything unless its on the first page come to think of it

first turn of the key = accessory power (your stereo will work) second click = all dash lights should come on (including oil, engine etc) 3rd click = engine start, dash lights go out this is normal

lol andrew just completely owned those guys.. and he only joined sau to do so. word.

this is how the readout went, the volume and pitch of the spark noise goes up and down with the firing rate. basically just started at idle, went to top, then back down to idle. so you get an idea how the voltage changed.

the grease method works awesome except without using grease. go to a toy store or art supply store and buy some cheap plasticine (plastercene?.. i dont know how to spell it lol) its basically like playdough. that stuff works awesome, shove a bit in the whole then get a screw that takes up the diameter of the hole (but it cant touch the sides) and hammer it home, the bearing should come clean out

R32 Gts-t. i've just been bench-testing my coils, and in particular checking output voltages. does anyone know what the voltage should be? and whether it should stay consistent throughout the rev range? at idle they seem to sitting around 28,000 volts and as rpm climbs up around midrange, voltage drops down to around 10,000 volts, then most the coils were back up to ~15,000 V by top end (the driver i have for them only outputs up to approx 5500-6000rpm) so beyond that rpm i haven't been able to test. ideally i'd like to hear from someone who's tested brand new coils and compare results. i'm not optimistic about my coils, they are old so not expecting great things from them. if new coils maintain a consistent voltage throughout the rev range then im putting new coils on the shopping list.

+2. get a cheap shitbox rwd for now, and save your cash hard until your off the Ps and you will be able to afford something epic. i wish someone gave me that advice when i was a nipper. actually someone probably did, but i doubt i was listening.

ahh yes. my bad. tits on a bull

seems to be the way it goes with the pull types. have you tried brands other than exedy?

if a turbo is what you want, then save your cash until you can have one. trust me, when you want a turbo, then a non-turbo will never satisfy. im speaking from experience. in saying that though, it might not be such a good idea to stick a novice driver behind the wheel of a turbo. having the non turbo taught me a lot about the car's handling characteristics etc and by the time i got myself into a turbo i was already well experienced at handling that car. as for common problems.. coils seem to be the most prone to failure, tend to cause far more problems on turbo's though. maintenance and running costs.. too many variables there to say accurately. most skylines these days are all in various condition, with various modifications, maintained by technicians of widely varying caliber's. my advice would be to buy one completely stock standard. my first skyline was stock standard and it was the most reliable car i've owned yet. my turbo was already modified and because you never know who's had their greasy paws in your engine bay its like opening a can of worms. for the love of god, whatever you do, get a pre-purchase mechanical inspection done. never again will i buy a skyline without one.

yea definately would hav taken the cash and ran. IMO all the aftermarket fenders out there ruin the clean lines of the r32, they just make the car look silly even when done to a high standard. get some rims that actually fit and dont make it look like a clown car. GTR oem guards FTW

lol i didnt mean it would take 20 years to learn to build a motor, but to build a motor to the same standard as the likes of rips or red r etc probably would because of all the experience they have gained in that time. this guy seems to think he can master building a high hp engine with a few weeks of tutoring. unlikely. if theres anywhere you can go to do a course on performance engine building then it would probably be in japan. even so, he would have to go and learn a new language first

i have just read the thread on the gtr uk site as well. this guy needs to be realistic about his expectations of people. he has had some the best RB builders in the business offer all the help that they can realistically give, but it's just never enough for him. you need to accept that living in Zimbabwe puts you at a huge logistical disadvantage, and to get around this problem it will cost you dearly. that is what happens when you choose to drive such a specialized high maintenance vehicle in a region of the world where the facilities and experience to cater for it just do not exist. no matter what you do to get your car back on the road, you will be paying through the nose for it. if you absolutely must learn how to build the engine yourself, your only hope really is to first read up on the overhaul manuals as much as you can and then go and enter the motor trade as an apprentice because i very much doubt any engine builder out there will teach you the ins and outs of doing it yourself just out of pure goodwill. it simply is not feasible due to the huge amount of time they would have to spend doing so, they have a business to run and time is money. it is a trade that even after 20-30years into it, people are still learning. so you cannot simply learn to build your engine in a couple of weeks. i think you are wasting a lot of peoples time here, you were making weak excuses why you hadn't emailed rob from rips with more details so he could help you. if for some reason your computer wont send an email, then use another. even i have access to at least half a dozen computers that i could send an email from. i do sympathize with your misfortune, but you need to be realistic about what you expect from people.

i managed this one driving from nelson to christchurch on xmas eve 2008. happened at almost bang on midnight. it was a textbook case of mid engine oversteer really. i had always been used to nice stable handling cars such as skylines and had driven this road countless times before, turns out having a mid engine car requires you to change your driving habits a little. the car went sideways mid-corner and passenger side connected with a rock and flipped the car over on its roof. i have very limited memory of it happening. came out of it with a broken arm and some cracked ribs. the investigation estimated my speed at 113km/h. "sure officer, yea lets call it that." i was pretty stupid really. if there was a passenger, they would have been toast.

that is totally unfair. you bastard. and i thought i was getting a good deal buying it for $32 per quart WITH trade discount (nz). now i feel ripped off lol