Spurdo

it'll bolt up to the engine fine, but i cant remember if the length is the same. if not then the driveshaft would need to be chopped up. i have seen it in a number of r32s as a cheap fix though so i would assume its the same. measure the length of the old box and compare that to the prospective rb30 box

have the car sitting level and fill it up until it starts to dribble out the filler hole, then lock it up. i'm pretty certain your gearbox will take 4L just like everyone else with an rb25 or rb26 box. i had 4 quarts (1 gallon - same quantity you have) of redline lightweight and after tipping it all in, the oil level was only just shy of the filler hole by about 1mm. you can get away with that quite comfortably, unless you wanna be really anal about it and go buy another quart and only use a tiny dribble out of it to top it up.

yea the rb30 would still pick up good from 2500rpm, the old saying "no replacement for displacement" is mostly true. if your simply after better economy on the highway then personally i dont think it'll happen, if you gear it down to 2500 or so then you'll find you have to spend more time on the gas to overtake (or you may even have to chop it down to 4th, also a good way to use more gas) and even at normal cruising, the rb20 wont maintain 100kph as easily, meaning the throttle needs to open further to maintain 100kph, injector duty cycles go up and fuel economy goes out the window. same reasons why you shouldnt use 5th gear at 50km/h. i'm sure you've tried that. it's shit. like jiffo stated above, Nissan got it right. there are good reasons why most engines 2000cc and below do ~3000rpm at 100km in 5th gear, it provides optimal fuel economy and optimal driveability. the general rule of thumb for factory vehicles is the bigger the engine, the lower its rpm at any given speed, simply because it can (i blame physics). and yea, factory diff ratio for auto r32 (2wd) is 4.3. factory manual diff 4.1

just make sure you dont get a 6 bolt flywheel they are the non turbo type. the turbo flywheels have 9 bolt holes around the outer edge on the clutch mounting face, but both have the same 6 center bolts that secure it to the crank. when i got my lightweight nismo flywheel for the rb25 it was the same one they sold for gtr's as well so obviously all the turbo flywheels are interchangeable. stock flywheels are usually pretty cheap if the flywheel is a stock one thats been lightened then yea either throw it away or sell it to some idiot

who in their right mind "abandons" an rb26?!! are rb26s as common as corn chips in japan that people just kick them out on the kerb with the trash for pickup or something?? lol

each to their own exactly. yes i maintain rb20 is a turd purely and simply from the perspective of bang for buck when faced with the decision the OP has, as opposed to rb25. these guys you speak of with rb20s hanging with the r34s would be unlikely to be doing so without spending far more on the rb20 than they could have got away with on a 25. i think the majority of r32 owners have an r32 because they are part of the large crowd who dislike r33's (mostly the looks and perhaps the boat-like handling has something to do with it). yes the the weight is a little offset by the extra cubes but that doesnt do much for the handling. light and nimble r32 is where its at if u ask me, OP is probably in the same boat or he would have just sold the 32 and got a 33 or 34 rather than going to the trouble of modifying the 32. and r32's i think have pretty much lost all the value they will ever lose, lots of r33s are still quite expensive in comparison and will probably still depreciate. but like bubba said, when you'r modifying a car then forget about resale.

if you want to "hang" with the R34's then forget about the rb20. they are a waste of time IMO. if you want more low end out of it without going broke then do what everyone else before you has done and get an rb25. for your power target the rb25 is more than adequate and very cost effective. it is by far the most economical way to make more torque but then im biased, i have an r32 with an rb25 and i love it! and i've always been of the opinion that building an rb20 is a waste of time. you can polish a turd all you like but its still a turd.

have your coils bench tested. its not a big job

if the engines cold then you can start it with the radiator cap off and run it up to operating temp and you wont lose coolant, as long as the car isn't driven. i have done this many times. but don't drive it like that. im in nz and my head gasket job came to just shy of 3000, that was with new water pump, cam belt, head studs and a couple other bits and pieces. i got a few quotes first and the one place i went to that had done RB25 head gaskets before told me approx 3000 and the other garages that hadn't done that engine before quoted 2000 so of course i went with 2000 but ended up costing 3000, obviously a bit more to it than some think.

it does sound just a touch low to me, but generally as long as the compression across cylinders is relatively even i wouldnt worry about it. when it starts burning oil or you get compression variances of more than 10 or 15 psi between cylinders then i would start thinking about a rebuild. do you know if the heads ever been off before?

i'm all about that r35 stag wagon. that is pure genius. not such a fan of the r34.5 coupe, would have been interesting to do though. someone clearly had a bit of money to burning a hole in their pocket and thought they'd be a pioneer. hardly suprising they got rid of it afterwards lol

everyone here seems to say walbro's are complete rubbish. and that bosch's are so much better in every way imaginable. i don't doubt that bosch pumps are excellent but from my own experience and that of friends with the same pump as mine, so are walbro's. why is it that people seem to have nothing but bad things to say about them?? i have had one in my car since 2007 and have had no issues with it. i am also yet to even hear of one failing. so whats the deal? everyone i've seen talking down the walbro's never gave a reason for doing so. i would like to get to the bottom of this.

most late model toyota's have a factory immobilizer embedded within the ecu, i think this is a fantastic idea. the original key has a tiny transmitter in it which activates the ecu when within range, around 3-5 metres i guess. without the original key within range the ecu delivers no ignition and/or fuel to the engine. this surely is the way to go. my company car at my old job used to do this. didnt even realise until one day we broke the key and got another one cut, but of course engine wouldnt start so i sat around scratching my head for a few minutes before i clicked lol to my mind, a thief would have to work for toyota (or whoever the manufacturer of the particular car). but even then, replacement keys are farking spendy and im guessing its for that exact reason to stop thieves. we were quoted around $1500 for a new key from toyota. we then managed to get the old one put back together. i would love to see an aftermarket ecu (such as Link) introduce this feature. that would be epic

the box in my car was doing this when i bought the car back in 2007. i rebuilt it around christmas 2009 by which time the gearbox had done about 15,000kms with that noise going on, and hadnt seen much abusive driving because i knew the gearbox wasnt well (some synchros were worn as well). one thing is that the noisy bearing will start generating a LOT of extra heat. mine was getting steadily worse and towards the end of it, it was getting so hot that the leather boot around the gearstick was hot to the touch and if i removed it then the air coming in through the hole was as if there was a hot stove element there. fark it got warm. when i got the box apart there were a couple of bits and pieces that had turned blue from such extreme heat. now with all new fresh bearings and fresh smurf blood the thing runs like a dream, ridiculously smooth and cool as a whistle. so if your hearing the noise, the box's days are definately numbered. i consider myself lucky it didnt get to the point where it caused further damage.

short shifter will only fix it if the missing bush is your problem and new shifter goes in with a new one. i've installed one short shifter before, and it didn't come with a new bush. had to use the old one, and it doesnt come off the old shifter easily. as stated above, its probably better to get a new one from nissan.. very cheap reassurance to know it wont fall off again. i had my rb25 box apart a while ago and as i recall it, the hole the gear linkage goes through would be too small for the nylon bush to fit through. and if it had, probably would have jammed the shifter linkage, making it nearly impossible to change gear at all. are you absolutely positive the bush isnt still sitting at the bottom of the shifter well? unless it somehow broke into several tiny pieces then they might fit through the hole. if it is floating around in the gearbox, it wont come out with the oil as there is an oil flow gate in the joining plate in the middle, the bush definately wont fit through that so it will be sitting in the rear section. pic of oil flow gate attached for those who are unfamiliar, it only opens about 4-5mm.

so today i got a flattie and had to walk the bike about 1km home. lucky it happened on my way back. when i investigated the puncture tonight i found a dirty great big nail sticking through the tyre - yep, that'll do it. i know how to patch the tube so thats no worries but is it ok to use the same tyre? the hole left by the nail is real tiny but i duno if a tube at 80-100psi might be inclined to try escape through it lol.. thoughts??

my names horsie ps3 broken but it'll be ready for gt5

i've got the original 60gb console and its epic i love being able to still play gt4 along with all the other extras it had. i run a media server from my pc anyway so i use bugger all ps3 hdd space, still using the original drive. love it.

double want. according to ebgames site here in nz game release is 04/11. oz is always the same, only we're 3 hours ahead if eb dont do a midnight opening for this one there will be windmills.

yea i spent months on that game was on about level 45ish then got corrupted data. eventually got back to level 61 i think thats the highest.. then my whole ps3 shat itself, fml. gunna get it fixed when i've got some spare cash for it but heres hoping the save data can be spared.

^+1 absolutely agree. treat them with respect, and you will always be better off afterwards than if you didn't

most garage's probably wouldnt do it, but should be able to point you in the direction of someone who does. your looking for an electronic instrument specialist

you must be a right noob. but hey we all were once. i'll lay it out nice and simple. BNR32 = GTR. 2.6ltr rb26dett (twin turbo) 4wd. HNR32 = GTS4. 2.0liter rb20det (single turbo) 4wd. HCR32 = GTS/GTS-T. rear wheel drive, hicas equipped. turbo or non turbo. HR32 = GXI/GXE/GTS. no turbo, no hicas.

whats a good tyre pressure to run on my bmx? i just bought a 2009 haro forum from a local dealer, got it cheap cos the 2010 stuffs in. when riding it it feels like the dealer didnt have enough air in the tyres so it doesnt freewheel that well and when i hand squeeze the tyres i'm pretty sure they feel a bit soft to me. same thing happened with the bmx i had last year but i cant remember what i pumped them up to.. so can someone tell me what sort of pressure bmx tyres should be?

yea popular mod for those who dont want to fork out for a proper rb25 rwd box. the gtr box is far cheaper but needs transfer case chopped for rwd application. cost effective mod but im pretty sure it carries a weight penalty over the rb25 box.