Spurdo

its beyond me why nissan gave the R32 rb20de and rb20det gearboxes different casings.. internally they are exactly the same.

i got nothin on that one

yea pretty sure there have been many lengthy threads about this. i've read several of them and the crowd favourite is usually the likes of Redline MT90 or if you have crunchy gears then try Redline shockproof lightweight. as for diffs i'd probably go for the genuine nismo LSD oil. nissan dealerships should usually stock it.

screenshot from fast

aftermarket pumps arent supposed to work properly without a simple modification to the fuel pump wiring, i know the r32s had this from factory and i assume r33 would be the same. when engine is under load the fuel pump receives 12v but under low load conditions (idle, low throttle conditions etc) the pump will only receive 6v as full pressure isnt needed. the stock pump is designed to handle 6v obviously. aftermarket pumps usually aren't, and when u run this system through them they do all sorts of wierd things. i found this out when i upgraded mine to a walbro pump and it did not like this at all. it would start and idle fine, but the moment u give it some gas it would cough and splutter and miss all over the place. it was driveable, but trying to accelerate was a painful procedure. the workshop who fixed it for me showed me a little grey box that they removed to fix it, located near the turbo. this little box is what switches the output voltage to the fuel pump. from memory they essentially just joined the 2 wires that went into it and the fix was as simple as that. from then on it received a consistent 12v, problem solved.

yea common problem, over time they get a build up of crap in and around the nozzle. not sure if theres any sure-fire way to clean them out properly cos they dont come apart. but the usual way is to get a fine tip needle and poke it around inside the nozzle and clear away what you can, then put compressed air through it. failing that, im sure new ones wouldn't set you back much

yea mine came in a sealed bag with some wiring and the tea bag filter, no clamp tho. there should be one around the existing fuel pump so just use that. the wiring and plug is kind of vital though because its not like other fuel pumps where you can just tighten a screw over the conductor, walbros actually have their own plug

yeah im in the same boat.. not in my system either. sorry dude. btw whats up with the green plate?? i havn't seen one of those before. the numbers and details on it dont mean anything as far as nissan is concerned. im guessing it was a grey importer's work lol

if anything, the cold air is far more likely to help your engines output , not hinder it.

one time when i pulled out my dash cluster i noticed the previous owner had taken out the bulb for the hicas light (which signals a problem with the hicas) so i plugged in a bulb and of course when i put the cluster back in the light was permanently lit. joy. anyway i sold my hicas computers (the ones on the underside of the parcel tray) to a mate with a gts4. what should having no hicas computers do to your hicas?? would it make it not work altogether? im pretty sure it still does work to some extent, one time the car went totally sideways on me while i was doing a u-turn on a busy road and it was fully unintentional so i blame hicas steering the back wheels out. what do u guys reckon?

the non turbo flywheels can only be used with 6 bolt clutches. turbo flywheels use the 9 bolt pattern. so short answer being no. but i have seen a stock non turbo flywheel and stock 6 bolt non turbo clutch used with lightly modified rb20det before without any issues. still.. i'd advise not to cut corners like that. check the classifieds section someone might have one

^ +1 haha yea i bet thats what it is. i've done that before with mine when i went to put it back on i'd adjusted the steering wheel back up and spent a good 10 minutes trying to work out how the f**k i got it out in the first place if it wouldnt fit through the gap. a bit of a facepalm moment lol

yea multimeter is no good it wont show leaks which is what causes the bulk of the problems. to be honest i cant actually remember exactly how its done, my dad is the genius with this sort of stuff he tested mine. it involved a 12 volt car battery, some other little contraption and some wires, get the coil sparking then wave another earthed conductor around the base of the coil and see if it draws the spark out somewhere it shouldnt. if the spark makes it out through the housing rather than coming off the spring then coil is no good. there might be a thread on this somewhere, otherwise next time we bench test some coils i'll take photos and document it and i'll start a new thread so others can test their own

yea best way is to keep it simple, make a plan and stick to it. bang for buck value definately go rb25det with an uncut loom & ecu and swap the sump over, get a nistune or something. i myself find it hard to trust a 2nd hand engine too but i've seen so many second hand rb25det's go into r32s without any issues i'd seriously consider it now. just make sure you get one from a reputable seller and it comes with some sort of warranty, there are heaps of bone stock standard rb25s coming out of japan these days that just dont seem to have had a very hard life judging by how clean they are and how well they still perform. generally u will have no way of verifying the history of the engine , so get the cambelt, waterpump, idlers etc done while the engines out of the car just for the peace of mind.

i went looking for my outside air temp sensor but i couldnt find it. what i could find was a random plug hanging around the area where everyone says the sensor should be. i took photos of this plug and i'm wondering if someone can tell me if this is the plug that connects to the air temp sensor. if so then i know mine is missing. i would check nissan fast except my computer with that on it has broken beyond repair the other day.. FML heres the pics, is this for the air temp sensor??

it just means that particular car isnt in our system for reasons unknown. it happens to about 1 out of every 7 vins i've been asked to check. my own car happens to be one of them. very frustrating

yea the manual has this to say about the sunload sensor: "NOTE: If vehicle positioned in dark place or if sunlight is exceptionally strong, then sunload sensor error may be indicated" so probably best to do the test outside, but not in direct sunlight

wouldnt worry about it too much, i've got a few sets of coils and yea some have the conductor and some dont. the ones that don't, never did have it as if you look at the end of the spring its wound in together so theres no room for a conductor to have ever been there. if you compare the end of the springs between one that had the conductor and one that didn't, you'd see what i mean. not sure why nissan did this, or which one was used first. but obviously at some point they decided one was better than the other (i doubt it) from personal experience they both have very similar failure rates as i've been through plenty of each. the only way to determine which coils are still good is to have them bench tested and see which ones leak under load. i really dont think the conductor will make any difference really, just check that the base of the pocket the spring sits in is showing bare metal and not corroded away.

a z32 turbo manual box is exactly the same as the r33 turbo box, except z32 has the mechanical speedo drive which connects straight up to an r32 (and i assume a31 also) speedo cable. thats what i've done anyway. just a useless piece of info for people reading this who want to do it with one less complication

yea entering the model code into fast will bring up virtually everything apart from paint code or interior colour but wont relate to the exact car your looking for. in theory there could be thousands of other skylines produced with the exact same model code, fast will give you the details that it can extract from the model code only.

actually after having thought a little more about it, sounds to me like you could have a broken valve, if its bent out of shape or something that could explain the excessive heat generated through the plug as well as the ticking noise as the valve wont sit properly on its seat. do a compression test. if compression is way down on number 5 then thats almost certainly your problem. if so, time for the head to come off

exhaust gasket will have nothing even remotely to do with it. generally i've found oil additives are a waste of time. if theres a serious problem it will never be fixed by tipping a little something into the oil filler. before you go replacing parts and just shoving them back on you might wana have a little investigation as to how it got so hot in there to melt the coil pack and loom like that. what plugs where you using?? my best guess as to the white crap everywhere could be porcelain off the plugs, as by the look of that plug it has been very very hot and the more i think about it the more i like that theory. first things first you need to find out how the hell did cylinder number 5 get so freaking hot as to cause all that. thats obviously what caused the running on 5 cylinders and hence the engine sounding different

already posted results for this one on 03/07 for another member. here it is again anyway

your vin no. is invalid according to fast. not sure why but some vin numbers just aren't in the system. maybe dark26 might have better luck? also the screenshot that we post up, like everyone else has got is all the info we can get for you about any given car. all the factory options/details are contained within the model code if you know how to decipher it. original paint code is written on your vin plate.

i took this screenshot from nissan fast, the part i've pointed to is where your throttle cable connects to, i'm pretty sure thats where you can adjust it to take up the slack.