Spurdo

they dont even need to be removed to take the bumper off. or at least not on r32s, i assume r33 would be the same. i was going to remove the drivers side one as well but there is a wiring loom that becomes exposed to the elements without it. to my mind it would only take a few stones on a gravel road or something to flick around the wheel arch and damage the loom, so i left that guard in to play it safe.

that never even occured to me. must investigate this. thanks!

if theres an ignitor unit on top of the coil cover at the back of the engine, series 1. if theres no ignitor, series 2. pretty sure thats the easiest way to tell

http://rapidshare.com/files/365725216/pdft..._GTR_manual.pdf complete r32 gtr manual. i havent been able to find a manual for rb20det, although a lot of the principals and wiring are identical

yea i've got the same problem, except mine stopped working after i was reversing the car off some stands one time and backed into my flatmate's car behind me, only damage was it broke my reverse lights, but even when i replaced them they wouldnt work, got a test light onto the connections and they were dead. i checked all the fuses in the fuse box and everything was good, any ideas?? also yea the reverse light switch in the gearbox is pretty easy to get out, from memory its near the speedo drive, you dont really wana put an open ended spanner on it or you might round off the nut (it will be on there really tight) ideally you need a socket with a slit up the side for the wires so they wont be in the way

i damaged mine when i was 19 when my skyline ended up in a shallow creek beside a pedestrian only cycling lane at 1am after driving round with my lights off haha, not one of my finer moments. i removed the plastic lining completely and its been like that ever since, makes no difference really. if it happened to the driver's side one then i'd replace it because it protects a bunch of wires that run through the top of the wheel arch. but on the left side i wouldnt worry about it. replace it only if you feel like being pedantic.

took this screenshot from nissan fast. sunroof drain part numbers highlighted in green/red. looks like the front one (part no. 91390M) goes down the driver's side A-pillar, and the rear one (91390 2K/4K) either goes down behind passenger door or rear left pillar. 2K refers to 2door and 4K is 4door, the rear drain is different depending which model you have.

most oem coils by 140,000kms 10+years old are getting tired and start to leak but there are those out there that still perform perfect. as for the splitfires you speak of, tough luck, but you cant judge every splitfire based on one uncommon experience, as r31nismoid put it there are far more instances of the opposite occuring to contradict your statement. i think many forum users have been over this many times and confirmed, splitfire/yellow jackets/red chinese/oem coils all deliver seemingly identical performance. i believe its just a matter of getting new coils no matter what sort (2nd hand just not worth the risk IMO). and unless your very unlucky, they should perform well for a long time.

in reponse to the original post.. this exact symptom happened to me where the engine effectively "shuts down" for a second very violently and then keeps on driving but you have to stay off the gas to prevent it happening frequently. in my case it was a coil(s) starting to play up and having a giant misfire. when i upped the boost to 15psi or so, it would suddenly have a violent stall once boost got up there, so i wound back the boost and problem was solved. however in the coming weeks it started having a slight misfire even at low boost and we realised it was coils causing it. the higher the boost, the worse it got. this may not be your issue, just another possibility. i hadn't experienced rich&retard before but i thought there was no way in hell it would respond as violently as that. it would literally throw you forward and break your nose on the dash if you weren't wearing a seat belt.

http://rapidshare.com/files/365725216/pdft..._GTR_manual.pdf

yea there are heaps of a32's over here. my mum has one. even i had one back in 2007. they are probably one of the most under-rated imports in nz in my opinion, ridiculously reliable, comfortable, and they are worth sod all to buy.

standard rim for r32 gtr is 8" wide, so 9" would be legal.. just. but then the gtr has wider guards so its debate-able whether the gts-t would be judged based on gtr standards. use this tool to work out your correct tyre sizes. the industry standard generally aims to keep the rolling diameter of the tyre within 2.5% (but the closer the better) of the oem tyre so as not to disrupt the speedo reading to far, however this is only relevant for the drive wheels. r32 gts-t oem tyre is 205/55/16 so in your case 245/40/17 is the best fit. as for the fronts, probably 225s or 235s would be good

yea rb25 gearbox should cost not much less to overhaul than the gtr box as they are almost identical internally except for the rb26 box having the transfer case. anyone know if theres there any 3rd party synchro's available for nissan gearboxes?

gears or synchros, they get replaced, not repaired. and neither are cheap. synchros almost always go first. gears should only go if you drive around with bad synchros and grind them all the time but rb25 gears are pretty tough. i have the same box and mine had been grinding for a while although i got used to it and avoided the grinding and when i rebuilt it the teeth on the gears were still in perfect condition

cheap ones here, bolts right up to stock turbine housing. i'm using one on my r32 had no issues so far. cats are over rated

i beg to differ. i like to think of it as trading in your useless bitch of a girlfriend for her hot sister who puts out better

hahaha oops. didnt see "spec 2" those instructions are for earlier profec-B. my bad!

r33cruiser: im not gunna lie, thats impressive, i didnt mean to imply every coil pack dies on their 10th birthday. but it seems from my experience and almost all others ive known of have failed to some extent between 10-15 years. i'd say your rather fortunate to still be on original coils especially at 16psi without issues. what plug gap do you use? yea it would be interesting to see the return/failure rate from yellow jackets vs splitfires vs the no name ones that come out of china. to be fair though the stock ones last 10-15 years in general and assuming thats when most of them were replaced (r32) with something else that gives almost all of the new ones still another while before they should be breaking down again. i've heard of one yellow jacket failing a week or so from new but no other failures from my knowledge. split fire has supposed "comparison" dyno charts on their website to show back to back results comparing their coils to oem ones but i dont really trust them as of course they probably handicapped the tune with the oem coils. i have seen one independent back to back dyno test done in nz between the split fires and the chinese red ones, 0.1kw difference atw on a 500hp gtr.. but your not likely to get exactly the same reading each time on the dyno so one might say absolutely no difference.

Galois..eh?? given that CC's = BORE x STROKE x NO. of CYLS, when you increase stroke alone, you are adding cc's, and adding stroke is the key way to generate more torque from an engine right across the board. as when the piston gets pushed down on combustion stroke, the point at which the connecting rod joins the crank gives the piston a certain amount of leverage to turn the crank, and the longer the stroke, the futher the connecting point is from the center of the crank shaft. more leverage on the crank = more torque at any given rpm basically. im not sure what you mean by "effective radius of the crank". but put in laymens terms for you, "no"

its not rocket science. refer to pic from manual. option 1. or if overboost occurs, option 2. comprehendei?

id say probably wouldnt make any sort of worthwhile difference. i think your kind of splitting hairs to be honest. yes it could possibly help cool down the cooler when sitting in traffic but thats when having colder intake temps by 1 or 2 degrees is really not necessary as theres a very negligible amount of air flowing through it in those circumstances. once the car gets moving at all then the smic will be naturally cooled by the air and a fan wouldnt be making any significant difference

ah yea my bad i was mistaken. my turbo originally seized the day after i got the car because the idiot previous owner didnt tap out the oil supply line to suit a journal bearing turbo. fail

yea arent EBC's supposed to reduce lag by not opening wastegate at all until set boost level is achieved? if you run just off the preset actuator the wastegate will gradually creep open more and more untill you reach full boost when its fully open and its rather laggy this way. i only found this out in the last few months and i always used to wonder why my car felt so much more responsive with the EBC turned on, yet not running any more boost. so really an EBC will increase response no matter what boost your running

which generation link ecu are you running? im running the older G1 and i have a hand controller, it has a temperature readout function

no? correct me if im wrong