Spurdo

must admit i would have spent a good few hundred hours on the first one and it's expansions. i mainly used mordecai, found the other characters a bit "meh". even lilith and her stealth walk thing would only do maybe 20-30% damage to a group of enemies so it wasnt that much help. i liked how with mordecai you can send out his pet darkwing and he'll take out several enemies in one go before returning once you've unlocked his skill perk a few times that was awesome. but after a while the game got pretty tiresome. and yeah i wish some elements had been more realistic. like having to shoot people 5 or 6 times in the head with a high level sniper rifle before they'd die is stretching it pretty far and its frustrating as fk!. like some of you mentioned same problem with rockets. that kinda stuff is meant to be the holy grail of death and destruction yet it just kind of becomes redundant when all it does is cause someone to stumble.

please tell me the boat thing was just an example.. and you dont actually use a skyline as a towing vehicle

yeah true thats what i was thinking, the combination of both factors would definitely be greater than any one on their own. but even then, what was the actual gain in performance? would it be substantial, reasonable or negligible? and then considering the cost, is it worth it? thats up to each driver to decide.. but in my mind i'm skeptical. and yes i realise the flywheel only effects the ramp speeds in rpm of the engine with no load, but once under load it then adds to the sum of rotational mass within the driveline, so both contribute to performance in that aspect in the same way.

has anyone actually done any back to back performance testing on lightweight shafts vs stock? in principal, all its doing is reducing some rotational inertia in the driveline, just like getting a lightweight flywheel (which i've done, and can confirm made no noticeable difference, not even a placebo effect). i think the weight savings sound great on paper, but by the time the driveline takes load, any weight savings (and effects of) turn out to be pretty negligible and unsubstantial in the grand scheme of things. you wont even get wank factor because no one will even see it lol

can mine please be changed to Spurdo muchas gracias, señor

yeah a little black smoke quite often doesnt mean much at all. unless it really was spewing it out with vigour i wouldn't worry about it. keep in mind the car is ~20 yrs old so its no spring chicken and sometimes it will show its age in more ways than one. when the smoke is blue thats when you should start getting concerned.

so my gtr bonnet is missing the front lip. i realise theres a few a/m options out there like those from justjap, ebay etc but i would like an original oem one if possible, if i can get one for a reasonable price. please PM rather than reply here, i probably won't check the thread often. and please note i live in NZ so would need to be shipped. i can pay via paypal. cheers

na to be honest i dont even blink at them any more. most of us feel it happening and we might make eye contact just to confirm its not just me.. then just.. carry on. big whoop. yeah i heard a couple places had to evac but it would have just been precautionary, and then some media hype thrown into the mix. everyone i know just continued about their business as if nothing happened.

how the hell did the plug get burnt? i would address that issue first or it might just happen again. but yeah if you find any r32 being wrecked you should ask if they'll separate just that plug. they might say no, and understandably because they might want to sell the thing complete, although the interior electrics loom is often hacked up at the radio plugs anyway, so whats another missing plug? so yeah it wouldn't suprise me if you had to buy a whole loom just for that plug. it'll be a bit of a job if you're wanting to be anal about it and replace the whole loom, on that part of the loom there really isn't much room for extra joiners and stuff in the hole so will probably mean it needs neat & tidy wiring if you're just going to replace the plug (if you want it to be reliable). i've made numerous efforts over the last few years to find an interior loom with all plugs intact and every single one i found had the radio wires butchered, which for me, is a deal breaker. so

i'll assume since your car is gts-t, your not talking about gtr's. 33 & 34 2wd are mostly interchangeable. 32's are different and cannot interchange with 33 or 34's

indeed they are! thank you sir. another inquiry. the following are pics of an r32 i was considering buying back in 2006. i have a question re the rims on it. i know they are an american brand: HP design. model - HPR5 the ones on this particular car were 18", but i don't know what width that is on the rear. from my own research, every 18" example of them i've found was +38 offset and was available in 18x8 & 18x9 (+38 on both). so i'm picking the fronts are probably 18x8 but can anyone shed some light on what width those rears are? i've been a bit apprehensive about getting 9" rims for the rear of my r32 because i know a lot of the time there is guard/lip work involved, and i dont want any of that. but i was thinking 9" with a +38 offset may work even because it sits inwards just that little bit further than most other 9's? because i'm pretty sure this particular car had no guard work done. and if i can still get the rear down to a nice height without any rubbing that would be awesome. this is pretty much the exact fit i'm going for, so just want some insight to whether the rears are 9" or 8". these are the most telling pictures i have of it. chur!

can anyone tell me what sort of rims these are?? i'm sure i've seen them a million times before but never saw them on an r32 till now.. and would definitely consider these after seeing this!

yeah its true, there are very few clean tidy r32's around these days, and if you do find one, you'll pay through the nose for it. thats why i've been hanging on to my r32 because i just cant be sure i'll find another one in acceptable condition. to be honest, i would seriously look at importing if you cant find any tidy ones locally, although theres a lot of rules which govern which imports can and can not be registered here. i think many r32's now are able to come in because once a vehicle reaches a certain age it is able to do so, but ONLY IF it DID NOT leave it's country of origin BEFORE the cut off date. i've noticed a lot of early r32 gtr's have been coming in in the last year or two. regardless, don't be in a rush to buy anything. let your cash save up until one comes up that really sticks out at you. thats the advice i wish someone gave me anyway

chur. my friend is a tard then. i'll hit him up about it tomorrow. i'd download it but i used up my data cap for the month in the first 2 weeks.

so after having played this on ps3 for a few months and being thoroughly frustrated at how difficult i find it to shoot with any kind of accuracy with the ps3 controller, i've borrowed the pc version off a friend and bought a licence key off the net, which is fine, but halfway through installing its asking me for disc 2. is the pc version meant to have two discs? the case only has space for one disc in it.. my mate i borrowed it off reckons there was only one disc. can anyone confirm how many discs there are for pc version plz?

yeah i'm hearing ya on the whole wheel sticking out thing and stretched tyres business, its fkn stupid. most of them seem to be aiming for rims that sit exactly flush with the guards, personally i like mine slightly sunken in from the guards so i can get the car a little bit lower without having to worry about guard rub. that thread has heaps of r32 results in it, although nowadays that thread has grown pretty massive and i think at one point i spent ages trawling through it to get a good range of results. here are a couple examples from that thread that i noted down ages ago: 1992 R32 gtst Wheel dia= 17" Wheel width=8" fronts 9" rear Wheel offset 35 fronts 38 rears tyres 235-45-17 front 255-40-17 rear Didnt need to do any mods car was lowered 25mm Skyline model = R32 GTST Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8" front 9" Rear Wheel offset = +42 Front +42 Rear Tyre size = 235/45/17 Front 235/45/17 Rear Modifications to fit: front requires 5mm spacers to give enough spacing with 235's a lot of them included pictures of the results so you could see how the rim sat in relation to the guards and stuff. there will be no variation between brands. as long as you get the wheel width and offset right, they will fit exactly the same as another brand of the same dimensions. its the combination of offset AND wheel width which will determine where the outward (and inner) face of the wheel will sit in relation to the guards and everything else. the lower the offset, the further the wheel will stick out from the mounting surface on the hub. pic related

you'd be far better off asking here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

its probably not crucial that you know what the offset of your current wheels are, just know the values of the stock wheels which are 16x7 +40 IIRC (if i'm wrong, somebody correct me, its been ages since i've had my wheels off the car to check) but thats very close to it, if not it. check this thread out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/ have a look through that thread and you'll see what wheel sizes work for any skyline out there

yes. if you look up aftermarket gear you'll notice a lot of them are advertised as fitting both r33 and r34. have also noticed the same for camber arms etc i'm pretty sure i've seen they even fit some of the same arms and stuff to s15's? could be wrong.

yeah i haven't into the numbers much but it was a fair few people. a lot of people would have done it out of necessity though as school's/workplaces couldn't re-open and had to head elsewhere to keep incomes and kids at school etc. i would think most have eventually come back, i sure as hell haven't noticed fewer people around. if anything the rest of the city feels busier because no one's allowed inside the cbd. and yeah for a time, insurance companies were refusing to take on new policies in christchurch. fair enough too with aftershocks happening all the time but they've all but stopped now. just felt our first one in a while yesterday. we can still get insurance but obviously it'll be significantly more expensive now.

are you sure the dirt isn't oily? usually whenever i've seen this its because the car is losing oil somewhere and it tends to stick to the rear of the car because of the low pressure area there when moving. normal dirt & dust etc won't usually stick onto the paintwork unless there was oil there first.it will probably be especially bad if you've been driving at highway speeds. i've seen it happen once when my parent's old subaru wagon shit it's transmission in the middle of nowhere on a long drive and there was an oily film all over the back of the car from it, and another time one of my first cars was using a shit load of oil before i rebuilt it, i drove down to christchurch and by the time i got there the back was covered in a thin film of oil, and yea, dust and debury was there as well because it now had something to stick to.