Spurdo

yes, Roy, road speed and traction has its merits. but i think when you own a rwd turbo nissan then the ability to go sideways was probably a sizeable factor in what influenced your choice of vehicle in the first place..

i believe the rb25 didnt get a ball bearing turbo until the r34, along with a steel compressor wheel i think

im running the same radiator with the stock shroud and fan, shroud was trimmed a little bit but it fits nice. the only issue i have with the viscous fan is that when i installed a front mount intercooler the pipe that runs across the front of the engine tries to foul the fan and i couldnt shut my bonnet properly or it would push the pipe onto the fan - not ideal. had to chop some length off the top end of the pipe so it would sit further away from the fan but thats caused other issues. so im looking to do something similar with the twin low-profile electric fans, are you going to wire it up yourself? if so do you know how to wire it up so it switches on and off as required? if someone can share some DIY intstructions for that im sure it would be much appreciated

PM-R33: i think just about every owner of a skyline over 10 years old has experienced misfire from coil failure, i'm no exception. when mine failed it would behave exactly like yours is in the video. my flatmate is a mechanic and he says the coils can be bench tested to isolate the bad coil but im skeptical of this because if the spark is earthing out through the casting into the head then (in my mind) bench testing might not emulate these conditions. chances are its only one playing up - for now. but if you just replace one and the rest are still old then sooner or later the others become likely to fail also, so for complete piece of mind you'd get a whole new set. also a note to all: if your getting misfire, you'll probably notice it gets far worse as you run more boost, and i've been told misfiring is a good way to destroy your engine's bearings. so if you get misfire, wind your boost right down and gap your plugs down, and stay off the boost as much as you can until you get it sorted out.

yea sometimes you get a vin that no one seems to be able to make sense out of. im guessing nissan may have made subtle changes to the options and stuff over the years of production and no one decoding method will cater for every model produced, it would be handy to know someone who works for nissan that could obtain this sort of information as they tend to keep this sort of stuff pretty close to their chest. i havent been using fast for very long but im wondering if theres a function that tells you which options the car had as that would explain a lot. one thing i find extremely frustrating, i put the vin of my own skyline into fast and it tries to tell me my vin is invalid/does not exist. bollocks!

if you know anything about skylines (or cars in general) then you really shouldnt need translation. the 2k means 2 door, the rest is self explanatory. the fast readout wont tell you anything you didnt already know about the car if your familiar with the car itself, its only really useful to find out its exact model and spec options etc

ive had a bit of a look and so far can only find very vague info on fuel pumps. i thought it might be a good idea to start a thread where people can post details in particular what pump they use, whether it be in-tank, in-line or custom setup, along with a brief rundown of their engine specs and what power/torque figures they're getting from it. then it gives a good reference guide to others looking to upgrade their fuel pump. while we're on the topic ive got a spare bosch pump lying around. part no. 0580 254 019 and i cant find any info on it. im currently running a walbro GSS341/342 does anyone know which would be the better one?

^^+1. i've got an apexi r32 gtr cat back system on my 2door gts-t, bolted straight up, gts4 chassis has even more similarities to gtr so yea definately will fit

yea when this happens the beginning of the end is nigh for your gearbox, if u dont wanna fork out for a recondition straight away then at the very least change the oil to redline shockproof gear oil clicky. a lot of people are finding this stops the crunching. but wont do so forever as wear on your gearbox progresses

my advice would be to go to a reputable transmission technician (most regular garages dont rebuild gearboxes i think, its quite specialised) and get a quote for a recondition on the gearbox, that means replacing all synchro's and bearings. the gears themselves shouldn't need to be replaced. take the amount your quoted off the price of the car and buy it for that. whoever rebuilds the gearbox should give you a warranty against defective parts/workmanship, so even if it does turn sour again you'll be covered. gearboxes generally last a pretty long time anyway, if its been rebuilt before then for it to start failing again this soon is beyond me given the age and mileage of the car. i rebuilt my own gearbox, it's been perfect ever since and that was my first gearbox build. so exactly how someone would have stuffed up the build on that box is beyond me. if you were familiar with gearbox internals and how they go together you would know they are a very precise piece of engineering and if something were to be assembled wrong, it would basically fail to work at all. my money would be on some idiot who couldn't drive to save themselves having owned it prior lol

generally wont have harmed your system, as long as engine temps havent been out of control it will be fine. cooling system refers to water/radiator. when you bleed/flush your cooling system you need to have the heater controls set to hot and turned on so that the cooling system is fully open and you dont trap any air in the heating system. the best way i find to absolutely guarantee no air in the system is to have the radiator cap off, pull off one of the heater hoses on the firewall and place your thumb over the end, then shove a running garden hose into the fitting on the firewall. when the air bubbles stop coming out the top of the radiator, system is bled. should take up to 15secs or so (dont take forever doing this or eventually your anti-freeze will become plain water) quickly remove garden hose and re-attach the heater hose to the fitting on the firewall and replace radiator cap. this method is yet to fail me.

yes there is a difference between early and late r32 gtr's dash clusters, exactly what the difference is im not sure but i do know they are not directly interchangeable. also unsure about exactly what bulbs for n1 lights, just take one of the headlights to an auto parts store (repco/supercheap etc) and they'll be able to tell you which ones fit

the ADM R31 isnt listed in nissan fast as far as i can tell, it isnt included in the JDM database anywhere. still, if you can confirm a vin no. for us you never know your luck. failing that.. it isnt that hard to make an enquiry with the parts department at your local nissan dealer

whats the vin no. from the r31?

its all pretty self explanatory. you must have zero knowledge about cars in general or skylines if you cant work out what it all means. it doesnt really tell you anything you wont already know anyway if you own the car. its just basic info on the car like colour, date of manufacture, transmission auto/manual, submodel etc etc

r32 rb20de, rb20det and rb26dett use essentially the same radiator assy, only one difference according to nissan fast, there is what appears to be a gasket or something between the core and bottom tank different between n/a and turbo models. see illustrations attached. radiator from n/a would work just as well on the turbo engine. i have owned both and can confirm no obvious visual difference either

most likely. in your case its probably most economical to get your stock ecu retuned. some tuning shops can retune the factory r33 ecus nowdays, and still retain operational VCT. dont go to a tuner that tells you to use an r32 ecu and either disable vct or run it full time, it should only be run in midrange like its originally programmed to do. its a drain on power up top and down low.

yea last time i had mine on the hoist i did notice a little bit of play in the driveshaft, from memory it might have rotated half an inch or so freely but apparently thats normal, as long as its not excessive like it would have to be to do what your describing. yours might be rotating a lot more and at a point it will start giving you a noticeable "jolt" from inside the car as trozzle described when it changes from engine driving the wheels to wheels driving the engine. maybe when the diff was new it would have had either zero rotational play in the driveshaft or maybe just the tiniest amount and with wear and tear over the years it gradually increases. mine was up on the hoist as i'd just rebuilt the gearbox and the driveshaft still had that little bit of play so the diff will be where most/all the play comes from. 2nd hand diffs are usually un-expensive ive found and they'r easy to inspect internally so you should look into that

grow some ninja fingers. also use a small ultra fine flat blade screwdriver to flick it out maybe? and for the love of god dont drop the circlip.. it will vanish into thin air

alternatively u can download the r32 gtr full service manual here it has the full gearbox overhaul instructions and i hear the gtr box is the same bar the transfer case. i rebuilt my 25det box a few months ago and from looking at that manual it all looks spot on

what intake? whatever is on the other end of the actuator line is what dictates your boost level

something like this? its good for maintaining the same rolling diameter when upgrading rims/tyres, so as not to put your speedo out or this one may be useful for getting the right offset when getting new rims

next time i have my bumper off my car i'll do a mock re-install of my factory intercooler and take a photo to give u an idea