Bronx

hey all, just did a turbo swap on my stagea, stagea Neo OP6 turbo swap with a R34 NEO OP6 turbo. the r34 turbo has a plasic feeling front wheel (it is also black in colour), also has a flex in it when pushed. was guessing thats the case since people say the front is plastic and rear is ceramic. now my stagea had a different front compressor wheel. My guess its a alloy wheel as it isnt attracted to my magnet. its heavier and also has no flex in it so im just trying to research if there was a different front wheel used in the stagea compared to a r34, or possibly if they had a revision of turbos through series 1 and 2 of the R34 skylines...... i dont know what year model the r34 turbo came out of, but my stagea is a 2001 build so does anyone have pictures of their stagea's turbos?? plastic or metal wheel??? or any info at all?? also as a last note, my turbo is stock, not high flowed.

free bump, just to say that some r33 s2 cars can run a r34 apexi power fc, there were 3 different ecus used in the r33's from what i know. make sure yours is a series 2 and has same plug as r34

ok, just a random update, ive found somebody who claim they offer new cores for the R34 turbos, with 360 thrust bearings or 270 bearings. but on another side note, i just replaced my stock turbo with another stock turbo, both OP6 turbos, so from a neo engine. the one turbo i got from a r34gtt had a black front compressor wheel and when i took the cover off, felt kind of like plastic, so i was thinking that flimsy plastic ceramic crap that people claim the turbos have. NOW the interesting part, when i swapped for my other turbo, came off my "stock" stagea, i took the front housing off that turbo and to my surprise, its a steel wheel! R34gtt turbo= plastic wheel, fins bend under a bit of pressure Stagea neo turbo= steel wheel no flex what so ever when putting pressure on the fins So my question is, where there any revisions in the op6 turbos? from ceramic to steel wheel?? the stagea turbo just had major shaft play from being over boosted accidentally, (17psi) that why the replacement. both turbo wheels and dimensions are the exact same, no highflows or rebuilds! im very confused.....

tap with a spanner, back of screwdriver etc etc. just make sure its a nice clean tap, not at a horrific angle or anything like that

in the next couple of months, im going to save up for a SPEC clutch so i can do a review on them and let yall know how they really are. will be opting for a SPEC super twin plate

either way its a brick, agreed. my clutch is starting to slip slowly, i dont know if its standard or aftermarket yet, but was running 220kw pretty well. i thought the r34GTR clutches did fit in the gearbox, except for certain triple-quad plates that had trouble fitting.

its r34 gtt/gtr and also r33 GTR clutch that should fit. also isnt the rs4s a heap lighter than 1800kg? mine was put on a scale and returned 1602kg with 1/4 tank of petrol.

so basically he is telling you to do half a 100k km service??? most of those are pretty easy to do besides the water pump/ gasket, and rear oil main oil seal. when your doing the spark plugs you can basically do your rocker cover gaskets, fuel filter, just remove fuel pump fuse and let your pressure drop till your car stalls. clutch and brake fluid can be done in one go. and when your under your car for clutch fluid you can do gearbox and rear diff as well transfer case i have never done so might need to look for a tutorial on the forums. quite sure there was one too. but if you are going to do your water pump, i suggest doing a timing belt and tensioner change in one go.

yeah i guess. pretty unfortunate. for the time being i have bought a 2nd hand stock turbo and i will dismantle the blown one and see if i can get a similar core to fit.

ive guessed it has an ALSD, but no ALSD light on the dash like the GTRs or other equipped cars...... i always though they had a mechanical LSD, then thought maybe viscous, but now ALSD. so many people on all diff forums claim so many diff things. ive looked under it, but it didnt look like the ALSD's that i see on other skylines. but as long as it locks up when i have wheelspin is fiiine with me

my fronts also dont turn when jacked up but my rears do(rears turn in opposite directions and fronts dont move at all). when i dump clutch and light up the rears, i pull 2 strips and the rear does lock up. but i think the front doesnt turn because it has to do with the transfer case locking up

hey all, my turbo is starting to get a bit of shaft play and puffs out smoke every now and then. now my question is, is there a rebuild kit or core replacement? i dont want a hi flow turbo, its cheaper to buy a new garrett than getting it high flowed anyways. so no interest i want my turbo to stay stock. i dont mind getting a core with steel wheels either if that is an only option. if anyone knows where to get one from or part numbers, i would greatly appreciate it. i prefer not to buy a 2nd hand one, because the same thing will happen again sooner or later. so recap, stock turbo rebuild kit. that is all cheers Jean

nobody likes hicas! i find it pretty bad in my stagea, if im cornering just a bit it will turn into full lock and try to make me kiss the wall. in my mates r32gtr however, its barely noticeable.

indeed good sir, indeed. i did not think of that

well i know the 260 twin turbos, but why twins on a rb25?

ive had that happen, but since i played the game religiously i didnt mind so what do you know, 30 mins later i found one with higher specs, (zeds demise). duped it, gave one to jin and 2 for my inventory. was all good and fun, till my saved game corrupted....... there goes my 80hrs of gameplay aye????? @%*(^$&%#%@!^&*

why 2 pod filters? one pod has more than enough flow for that little turbo, so would a K&N panel filter, but im sure with a stock box you would lose quite a bit power up top with that midget snorkel.

hmmm, my clutch is holding out 220kw, no slipping, unless i dump the clutch at 5.5krpm and above in 4wd mode, then i get a slight slip. clutch is 30k km old. but they are def a fun car to own. just make sure you do some decent stability mods, they handle pretty bad.

triangle 3 bolt type? isnt that a "K" style manifold? the ones used on VW and Audis??? anything built for K manifolds is supposed to handle crazy boost. most the KKK hybrid turbos using specific garrett cores run the 40psi+

its 3 pieces to that manifold, (this is going from memory) cylinder head->sandwichplate of sort->throttle bodies->plenum. but connected to your plenum is your aac valve and also a heap of cooling lines, so you would have to undo them as well. which creates more mess. from memory though, there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold the oil sandwich plate on. if you undo both of those, you can take off the plate and change the seals. that is the easiest option. where abouts are you located in oz? i could lend a hand if you were in sydney

your talking about that factory water to oil cooler next to your oil filter aka that sandwich plate?? if so, its a bit of a pain to get to, but not impossible, i put one on when the engine and manifold were in the car. but it was a r34, might have had more room in the engine bay. either way, if thats what it is, either that mechanic is shit at doing his job or hes trying to pull your leg

you can use a odb2 cable with some software to to read your fault codes, i use a bluetooth obd2 sender in my s2 and my tablet pc with software reads me the codes all up didnt even cost me 50 bucks....

spotted white m35 rx at dominos pizza penshurst today, with GTR rims, parked couple meters down from you. also spotted a silver s2 stagea near nagoya motors reversing into a factory driveway, gave him a wave.

haha, depending on how much cash you have to throw around, you can either go with the small mods like exhaust and cams to get small power or you could go all out and get the engine rebuilt to make a couple hundred HP and still staying NA. but how deep your pockets go?

hey, im in the middle of trying to put my front facing plenum on my NEO motor, since all the plenums i have found were r33 specific, i have had to mod the aac socket to fit r34. Now to get to the point, i have been reading that they are built to fit the r33 injectors, which are side feed compared to the neo top feed, now my question is, are they the same dimensions? is the actual injector head (spray head) the same size on both injectors or are they different in size? what is the r33 diameter compared to the r34? i am fine with the fuel rail and FPR fittings, but i dont know if i have to mod or put rubber seals around the r34 injectors to fit in the injector positions on the plenum. if this makes sense...... if anyone knows the answer, it would help me a lot as i cant have the car off the road for longer than a day.