Bronx

the r32 isnt a phenomenal amount lighter than the r33, just clicking the 80-90kg's

also, its been proven that aircon, when used will only add 1l per 100km on top of what your using. forgot what show i saw this on, but it did entertain me. the aircon screws with your poerformance though, you already have turbo lag, now your just making it worse with the aircon. even for a semi track car, id keep the aircon in, just buy a bigger alloy radiator...... and for fuel reduction, get a nistune (if its available for the r33 ecu)

ceramic is fine, but therefore if you do hit aground or your car is lowered, its better to have a metal cat. also ceramic is alot cheaper to manufacture.

yeh, i know that, but i thought he meant buy a 4 inch flange.... which confused me.

as much as i know, for the airbag to work properly, it should be integrated to your ecu, you need the sensor, and ecu to know when to deploy it, its not your airbag that does it by itself. also, an airbag isnt always safer. just to let you know.

de cat is basically a cat with nothing in it, all the comb is gone, you can buy em from just jap for 80 bucks, but thye are only race legal. get caught on the road and they do a emission test, they will find out. (just letting you know the worst case scenario) why do you need a 4" inch inlet when your exhaust is only 3" how can you fit a 4" onto a 3"? its an inch bigger.......

as much as i know, it does not matter what cell count your catalytic converter has, as long as it has the same emissions or better then what your car was built with. the cheap ones on ebay are good, BUT, if you want to be safe, buy yourself a proper stainless one with reinforced bars. if you have a lowered car you will, i guarantee it, sooner or later smash the insides of a cheap ebay one. the ceramic/platinum insides shatters quite well and when that does happen, youll feel a lot of power loss. i just bit into the sour apple and spent the extra 150 bucks for a proper one. or like said, run a decat..... i wanted to, but i dont want to get caught AGAIN by the cops for running a decat.... you can cop a pretty hefty fine.... also, if you run a 3" exhaust, you dont need a 4" cat, 3" in and 3" out is fine, but your centre piece will most likely be 4" or 5" due to the inside comb

should all be the same, all RB starters should be interchangeable.

if you can prove its rebuilt its as good as any other rebuilt motor, wether, 50k or 500k rebuild, only diff between the 2 would be wearing out on the block, but that should be very minimal anyways. at 140k km you should have wear less than -0.001mm anyways

its got a recirculating BOV, so you wont hear the BOV, the turbo is not heaps noisy, but you can hear it, at about 2.5k rpm you should be able to hear it spool up. pretty high pitched whine. check the instrument cluster, if it has the middle section (between speedo and revs) if it has the N, R,D etc, then it used to be auto. other than that, i dont know how the inside was different to a auto, besides the steering wheel which had the +/- symbols on it

haha, same with mine, i also want to know where to get one form, apparently they all came with that remote standard though, id like to know where the receiver is located???

hey mate, i dont know much about rego and roll cages, but can you rego car with this installed??? if so, im up for it

Got a Oil restrictor for the rb26, brand new, came with my tomei metal head gasket. original Tomei, brand new in plastic bag 25 bucks incl shipping to anywhere in oz pickup if you want, located in Hurstville area Sydney Jean

http://www.scatenterprises.com/ check them out, and i really doubt that any aftermarket forged items would be crap... just saying main thing to check i guess would be smoke from any oil problems, valve seals, scrapes inside of block etc. highly doubt they wouldnt get it re honed or bored/fixed while they rebuilt it.

im quite sure that there must have been other propblems, ive seen people run 700+ horses on the standard crank. (nothing modded or changed either) just make sure that the block is in good condition and same goes for the head. which is a bit of a hard thing to check. but i doubt they would rebuild it with a crap block/head anyways

that 350z was featured in fatlace, those rims are just dope, the guy filled em up with beer bottles, thats how deep they are!!! i rate that style of rims a 7/10, but its just something about them and that style........

cus they so hektik bro.... no, not really, i just like the look of them and i guess so do others. every person likes different looks in rims, i do prefer the "tuner" rims for a car personally, but if you want to go VIP, on a nice phat s600 then this is one of the best choices, they just look nice and beautiful. id love to put BBS on a skyline, but i wont becaus from my view they look shit on a skyline. i found a really nice set of bbs a while ago which actually looked really wicked and maybe a bit extreme, but they were a 1 off make for bmw, they were 15X15 rears and 15x11 front. you could have fit another rim just in the dish if you wanted to

i think they look hot, but not made for skylines, you can only have certain rims on jap imports that suits them, same goes for euros. volk for japs and bbs for euros. thats always going to be like that. euros have the styling and japs have something more toy like. but those rims would look crazy on a merc or porsche. that style imo is more for the luxurious, not for the sports car

front is an open diff, non lsd

haha, i was supposed to go that night, but last minute changed plans.... woulda spotted my sticker bomb of a stagea

lol @ the voting.... that made my day, lower your car by about 30-40mm, that suits the r34 alot, my mate dropped his car on d2 or d4 coilovers, and the ass is so low, even on the highest settings, that this car scrapes everywhere. the front is a good height though and doesnt hit or scrape on anything. as long as you get a nice setup with springs and shocks or coilovers and get it all aligned and adjusted properly, you wont have any problems....... except for the usual cop stopping you

what ever happened to the old skool diff description???? where you had a 50,60,70% lockup diff???? now its all 1, 1.5 or 2 way......... what do they equate to in percentages??? i remember the best was always a 70% lsd, perfect for street and perfect for a bit of track. also ive been driving with a 2way in both a NA r34 and a rb26 r34, same car just engine replaced, the NA was easier to drive with a 2way cause it had easier torque down low to pull it out of very slow u turn corners, the rb26 with its giant turbo has absolutely no guts below 4.5k rpm, so makes it a bit harder. but on the road ive never had any lockup in the rear when going downhill in the wet, only in the stock 1way one when i had bold as f*k tyres and i shifted down hitting 4k-rpm

spotted a silver c34 down princes hwy blakehurst, had a just jap sticker on the rear side windows, i was the guy in the sticker whore c34 if your on here

1.1mm???????? wow, my car wont fire past 2800rpm with that, and ive used diff types of plugs, used pulstars, cheap NGK, NGK platinum and iridium, also Autolite double plats. all had problems firing with 1.1mm gaps. guess you have some good sparkies??? when i uprated my coilpacks to the splitfires, i havent had problems firing 0.8mm gaps, but still 1.1mm under high boost. still choose 0.6mm though.... also im running heat range 7 from ngk, the 6 heat range always cracked for me. i swear to god my engine has its periods....

what gap you use on your spark plugs???? eventhough my car is stock, and only boosts to 7psi on high, i sometimes have trouble runnin 0.8mm gap, so i use 0.6mm...... kinda weird, but ive been told by most tuners that for forced induction cars should be gapped to 0.6mm