Bronx

guess it could be your coil packs then, doubt its the afm or a boost leak, sounds like a ignition problem, so guess your coilpacks cant charge fast enough to create a big enough spark for the high boost range, since low boost your compression isnt high enough for the spark to have difficulties jumping. find a spare pack of coilovers from someone, cause spending 500 bucks and finding out its not them, is a pain to. i have a spare set for a rb25neo engine and a set for rb26dett, but i dont think any of them fit your rb20... or while your at it, might as well change your fuel filter just to be safe.

same here, just jap told me to use the same....

oooh yeah, i agree on that one ^ but i do admit, mechanic has to be one of the easiest businesses to run compared to something like a fast food joint or coles etc. most mechanics are stand alone ones, or only have 2-3 people working there. kinda makes it a bit easier, BUT in saying that, there is a mechanic left right and center, so its hard to make money unless you specify in certain things like dyno tuning or vehicle specific. on topic, 400 bucks seems to be right on for your clutch change then

nah, never owned a business, operated yes, 2nd in charge behind the owner, and i do know labor is expensive, at least in this country it is. but not alot of people here so things will have to be more expensive to make up for it. which i support paying for unless i can do it myself.

wow, for that much labour an hr, ill do it. hahaha, thats a crazy ripoff!!!

since i did a full rebuild with all aftermarket parts incl machining, polishing, and buying the race head ive been at about 20k now. but thats basically a race engine. this includes the turbos, the power fc, pistons injectors pumps, you name it and the car basically has it. but for a basic freshen up, no labor costs incl, you be looking at about 2-4k in parts main bearings- 110 rod bearings- 60 pistons and rods, eagle and cp -1.2k as a set (would say wiseco pistons and manley rods) personal preference-1.4k n1 oil pump- 250 gates timing belt incl water pump-400 oem gasket kit (incl EVERYTHING)- 250 (metal head gasket- 400 if you want high performance) then if you want to get things ported, polished bored etc will add to the costs. then if your interested, turbos and injectors highflowed, will set you back a bit more again and then the labor costs is what will kill you. (general mechanic) but if you know someone it would be cheaper. thats the straight out price i paid for all the parts

dont get the oem head gasket, get a aftermarket metal one, since your already building up a pretty powerful engine. dont save cash on a cheap head gasket. but if you do put all that together get a proper ecu installed, or the car remapped to run properly, especially if your getting high lift cams. Bearings your right, dont need any other ones, just make sure you measure your crank and block perfectly and get any wear or marks ported out, so you may need to get over sized pistons/ bearings if thats the case. also you could invest in a flywheel/ clutch combo and a fuel pump. also make sure that if your doing the rebuild, take off your sump nicely, the guy who took my oil sump off before me, decided it didnt come off nice enough and shoved a screwdriver in there and bent the whole thing out of place!!!! other than that parts IF you choose: bushes cv boots brakes hoses and pipes if looking worn. all your fluids diffs attessa system gearbox

either way, you will need engine out, im in the middle of putting my mates r32gtr engine into his r34, just finished rebuilding that with all brand new parts. get a nice set of forged items, they will last you years on end. nice new bearings, pistons rods, gasket, and a freshenup of the head, all your valve seals and maybe even get new valves put in, get your head acid washed, and it will look as new. do your service all in one go, timing belt water and oil pump while your at it, and then you will have a fresh new car. keep your stock turbos for the originality, get them rebuilt too. since you wont be pushing your car hard for the high HP so unless a brand new set is cheaper then getting your old ones rebuilt then go for that. thats my dollar worth of info

not a ricer, but thats the only type of engine bay i can think of that looks daaamn clean

belive it or not, i actually put brand new NGK's into my car not even 1 month ago and i have run into the same problem. swapped for a new set and its all gone. just faulty spark plugs. go to just jap or so and buy a cheap set for 20 bucks, easy as. i bet my money on the sparkies

hello, if anyone has a write off, non repairable r34gtr, let me know, just the ass half has to be in good condition, from door end to rear light has to be perfect, i needa cut out some side panels. or i someone knows a wrecker, let me know

is this a rebuld with genuine nissan parts or with aftermarket parts??? if the engine has been taken car of, you shoudnt need a rebuld till about 200,000km, my golf mk2 gti started off with 105hp atw, and just before we took it apart for a rebuild, 230,000km, it was doing 98hp atw. not bad at all, and all this car ever got was the basic oil changes and one timing belt change. that was it. but if you rebuild your bog stock engine and replace all inside parts with good quality aftermarket ones, Cp pistons and eagle rods for instance, and your not going tog o high HP hunting and just keep it stock, there is no reason why it wont last you as long or longer than the average engine. anly thing on these motors to look out for are the wear and tear parts, especially the turbos. become very fragile after a while. so if your doing a rebuild and are only looking into the say 350hp with aftermarket parts, the engine, without the turbos should easily last you 10+ years if you do regular services and look after it

*saves picture* now that is the most perfect answer ever! if people know its illegal, why do they still do it????

17+turbo+skyline+no job??? sounds like my tax money is going well at centrelink, sounds like bankstown here in syd but my advice, buy a normal car stock standard, not even a skyline, just some small car, cause i can bet that by the age of 20, any of your cars will have been involved in quite a few accidents. if that money could buy experience in life, it would be a greater benefit

or if you have the cash and can afford one of the Active Steering setups from any of the newer bmw's or mercede's you can try to convert that, while going fast, you need 2 full turns to get to lock, but while parking its just a 90 degree trun for lock to lock. i like it like that. im also trying to find an adjustable Active Steering setup, so i can have it as normal steering or for drift/race have 90 degree steering, makes it soo much easier

wow, tapped for both sumps. thats cool, my mates gtr block got that done too when he put it into his 4 door skyline. when i take my engine apart in the stagea, ill measure it up to the 26 block i have in my kitchen see if its same dimensions

i agree with that hyundai coupe thing (forgot the name, but saw it drifting) pretty sweet car imo, looks decent, doesent look too heavy, sporty and stylish. most cars these days rely more and more on electronics which in real life isnt alot of fun for us, BMW Mercedesa etc etc are mostly out of the league for the majority of people looking at a skyline equivilant, aftermarket tuning options cost an arm and a leg hard to come by aswell, too heavy, too much electronics to mess around with, disconnect one thing and your air lift suspension dont work or your alarm wont go off, the skylines 31-34 were like the m16 carbine equivelent in cars, 90% interchangability, clip on clip off stuff, parts you can find left right and centre and really, arent that expensive to maintain. but then again, sports turbos was a thing of the past, 80-90's, now its all about that ghey global warming and emissions BS. only people who dont seem to have a limit on that kind of stuff are aussies and the americans, they still build the most basic/ standard you can possibly get out of any engine/car combination, throw a big block into a big car.... good idea for the tuning drag community, but not so much for most of us on this forum. but if you want to, think of it from an overseas persons POV, back in germany everyone drives BMW's and mercs, thats their equivelant to our skylines. USA, all drive muscle cars, UK..... god knows what they drive, Japan is same scene as here, France and Italy its either citroen or fiat or some ol' BS thats my dollar worth of info

235hp turbo??? maybe the s1 but not the s2 they all run the same engine specs as all the normal skylines. so i highly doubt there is any diff in performance, but saying that, i havent taken my one for a dyno run to confirm that

i think its exact same engine, just the stagea apparently has a slightly different size block for the awd (its wider down bottom for the awd sump) otherwise same thing, bit for bit.

it will sell!!!! muahahaha

+ electronics, ecu etc??? i needed all those parts when i did my conversion. also exhaust would needa be redone, dont know if you still need to modify your brakes either if you put a higher performance engine into your car, the non turbo brakes are so small you can barely stop a horse with them..... engineers report or certificate??? also are you still allowed to put an older motor in a newer car??? somewhere i read about that, or was that just for compliance??

can these be adjusted for different psi??? also does it come with the adapter to bolt onto the stock pipe?

best is still 17", my mates r34 skyline has 18" and the look waaaay to big, but then again we got wagons, still prefer my 17" though would opt for some nice 15" or 14" if i had more cash, 15x9 on front and 15x12 on rears looks sexy

the r32 diff fit s13 sylvias???

or how bout a stroker rb26/28/30 etc??? basically same displacement, better performance, sound you can get from a custom made manifold. but bit for bit, i say the rb outdoes the 2j anyday, unless your looking at going into the 1500hp+ then there will be a bit of a diff. rb monsters all the way