Bronx

i was using pulstar be1i and autorlite app3923 double platinum plugs, one really really good, and one really shit n cheap ran autolites at 1.1mm and no luck at all, set to 0.8 and mostly worked, so i got to .6mm and they worked, the pulstar plugs have to be set to 0.6mm or 0.0025" which worked wonders! untill one cracked.

if your going to use it for motorsport, why not just purchase yourself a nice haltech ecu and be done wiht it, or even the power fc from memory can remove of it. if all that dont work, get a SLD or so called speed limit defender, there are heaps available for the r32gtr's. and cost about 140-200 bucks. here is one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HKS-SPEED-LIMIT-DEF...=item4154ada711

here are some pictures from the sparkies i blew through, there are pulstars. I also found out that one was not ngk, (took ngk out and replaced them) they were autolite double platinum. (there is my reason for them blowing up) but still wondering about the pulstar plugs, they had a heat range of 7, so should have been fine. while the autolite had heat range of 6. here are the pics:

hmmm, i always do it when i first start the car, on cold, and the light never comes on straight away, as soon as i let it roll forwards or backwards it starts flashing, i roll about 3-4m then it flashes.

hello, just to finish off my rb26 engine, i need 2 more parts, 3 to be precise, part 1: right side engine bracket. (to hold engine) part 2: power steering pump with holder. (so technically 2 parts ) if anyone has these flying around, please let me know. pref in sydney, but postage will be ok if interstate. cheers Jean

oh, dont forget, you have to drive a little while for the system to register it, i always do about 10m of driving before it kicks in. and light needs to be "flashing"

i was using heat range 7 ngk and also rang 7 pulstars. both cracked, i havent modified my turbo or anything, just did the boost switch instead of running low to high boost, its constantly running high boost. *bridged the vaccum hoses*. since im running the cracked plugs till i get a chance to get a new set, they missfire a heap during high boost and if im doing about 2/5th throttle. once i go to half throttle they are fine, but if i go above half throttle till boost kicks in, i get missfiring again. plus im gettin a heap of backfiring too. alot of popping, hope i wont have to replace my catalytic.

yes, apparently ethanol has no "knocking" not like regular petrol, so alot of people use it in racing cars etc. but its not a self coolant like petrol, so running anything more than about 20-30% you need a cooled head.

ive seen plugs crack before under too much heat, pretty crazy if they crack very bad, all you see is sparks flying out the sides. i think the splitfires i have are the 2nd or 3rd most powerful ones, i think that DIS-010 are the most powerful ones. (from what ive read) the splits are genuine, bought them from just jap, doubt they would risk selling fakes. i will go back today, and see what they say. ill aslo buy the set of cheap plugs for the time being, where is best place for them?? just jup had them for 30 bucks but sold out, repco and supercheap?? thanks for all the feedback

such a killer, paid 600 for them!!! now gotta go back and get em exchanged. urgh, so what do i do with the plugs????

its the 008 ones and its a series 2. i think my basic heat range on the plugs ive had was 6, so pretty low

i bought a new set of splitfires today for my c34 stagea, but i ran into a heap of problems, i blew out my first set of brand spanking new pulse stars. so i swapped them for the regular platinum NGK's i had left over, and guess what, after 30 mins of driving, missfiring and bam 4 of my 6 NGK's ceramics cracked open.......... now i have no plugs left over. they just keep cracking them open like eggs, anyone have any idea????? is there proper spark plugs with the right heat setting or cooled head for coil pack cars??? i know bosh has a range of heat set plugs, but does NGK??? i just wasted 200 bucks on plugs today..... its not fun

stupid NEO enigne, make life so hard. maybe i should just rebuild the rb26 head i have. might work better, but i just dont have the little attatchemtn parts for the engine, like aac valve, ignition module and vct. nor do i have cam covers its just so dirt cheap to get pistons and rods for the rb26, i bought a set for my mate and he paid 1200 incl shipping for the full set. and i just cant find a NEO set. p.s how the F%^$ do you change the forum layout so you dont have to click on the replies to read them!!!!!!!!!!!!!! found out how to change it :D:D:D:D

i have found the piston differences between the rb25 neo and rb25 from the r33. the r33 head works with the rb26 block while the rb25neo technically shouldnt.... i think. the r33 rb25 pistons are close to identical to the rb26 pistons, and the rb25 neo pistons have the valve guides cut in this is a rb25neo engine: this is a rb25 r33 engine: and this is rb26 enigne: so technically does it mean that the valves would hit the piston if you were to use a r33 piston in a neo motor??? the Neo piston just seems to look like it has more meat around the sides, while the r33 ones have just a flat cut.... if that makes sense. is that why the neo motor only has 51cc combustion chamber? p.s just found out that the rb25 neo engine has a higher lift than the r33 one hence why the valve reliefs. plus i think the r33 has larger valves than the NEO i think im very very slowly answering my own questions here :S

Hey all, im just wondering if our sump and diff (c34 awd) is the same as the rb26 sump and diff??? im thinking of forging the bottom end rb26 i have and popping on my rb25neo head. some things i just havent figured out yet, will the rb25 NEO head fit on the rb26 block??? i know the r33 one will fit. i would just forge my rb25neo engine, but all i find is the r33 rb25 pistons and i dont know if they fit or not. so its either forging the rb26 with 25 head or forging my full rb25 NEO. anyone have any clues??? all help is greatly appreciated. p.s i have the r33 manual, but its only got the non neo rb25 motor in it. so i cant go off that for the NEO motor

1. in the manual there is no warning, 2. so how can it become full 2wd but not be able to do burnouts? the wire + brakes releases the pressure on the clutch plates in the transfer case, the fuse does not. fuse will still have the clutches slip but not engage. but each to their own, i havent had any trouble while driving and i havent had any wear and tear in the transfer case, but like everyone says, if you dont trust it, disconnect the front just in case.

the s2 should be fine with it, i have the r33 user manual and it states in there that that is a "factory diagnostics way" of putting it into RWD, releases clutch pressure to the front drive aswell. plus i think its also been said here a by a couple of people aswell. i havent had any wear on my front transfer case either, just last weekend i pulled my box out for a leak problem so i took the time to take it alllllll apart to give a thorough check. all seems nice

if its s2 stagea, the green plug with 1 wire hanging from it, under the drivest side kick panel, turn your car on and press brake 5 times quickly within 10 secs. then 4wd light should be flashing. all done

dont buy the autech, its crap, you can tune the normal s2 more, back in GT4 i maxxed out the autech and hit 430hp while the normal s2 got me to 550hp. and 33k, just cheat your way through the special events

rb25=side feed and rb25 NEO = top fee, rb26=top feed aswell, but the injectors are a bit longer. to fit rb26 injectors into the rb25 neo, just use 26 fuel rail and i think lift the rail about 5mm i think. or use the stock rb25 rail and lift that, but im not sure if you have to change anything to fit in the injectors

yeah, i was just looking where it was, and i saw it had 2, but when you get a Adjustable regulator, you can replace them both. but for that, i need an adapter. stupid tomei FPR

as above, whats the stock pressure for the rb25det NEO??? i read somewhere it was 3 bar, but i really dont remember Cheers Jean

yeah, love skylines and all, but in the end its still a nissan, no offence to me or anyone who drives a nissan while the veyron is a piece of history and just pure sex. i still reckon the veyron has more cables than our whole car has transistors

in either one of the 2 scenarios, R34.r35 vs veyron, i know which car i would rather have. even if the veyron is not faster around a track or better in the curves than say the r34 or r35, it sure as hell will out do just about anything on the road 120-400kmh (besides the porsche)

yeah, take high beams off. haha