Bronx

thats for s2, atleast mine is exactly like that. my headlight slides out perfectly

its easy to remove the lights, also easy to put in Xenon kit. if you want specific pics i can get them to you tomorrow. but the basics are: Right side, remove battery so you can get to the bolts better, then you can see it is bolted on at the back by 2 bolts i think, one pretty low and the other one middle height, (both are nuts) also your headlights are a 3 piece setup. your main headlight connects to a support connector which then connects to your high beams. the support connector is connected on the top and side of your headlight and the back of the radiator support, undo just your headlight (top and side of your headlight) then you can pull out your headlight and the wires. thats your right side done now left light, same thing basically but to get it undone, you have to basically undo the 2 bolts on the top of your radiator bar holding in the black can, there is a headlight screw right behind it. also there is another screw bottom right of the headlight aswell (if your standing in front of it). then just follow the other steps like the other headlight. remove air box if you want more space. to put in the xenon kit, its pretty easy. but for that i gotta know if its the original xenon kit thats attatched to the lights or if its an after market one cheers Jean p.s you dont need to remove of front bar

really???? so you can run a rb26 look on the rb25???? i never knew that. they always looked a little bit longer

guess for the lazy man or the drag enthuthiast, they will run the stagea AWD gearbox in the gtr.

its ok, i just bought a skyline workshop manual, covers everything, with 500 pages!!! woop

need to fill up fluid on my box, its leaking a bit, so i need to put ion some fluid so it wont void the warranty until they can fix it (if i let them). where abouts can you fill up the gearbox??? help is appreciated. can anyone tell me what kind of seal goes in here? the people at the workshop before have asked me........ kinda stupid for a workshop i really do prefer to do it myself, but i dont want to void the warranty. but then again, that warranty plan is absolute Sh*t. from what i know it apparently has a brass gasket??? and you dont need to take out the entire gearbox to replace it, pull out the shifter and undo the bolts and transfer. help is appreciated cheers Jean

your way would be the proper way of doing it. like if you have alot of cash flying around, but then again, rb26 parts are getting hell of a lot cheaper than the rb25 parts. my way was just replacing the ecu upgrade with a FPR, a hell of a lot cheaper. but then again, nowhere near as good as a ecu. p.s, i also think the performance section would cover just about everything

injectors, pump, FPR, and a new wastegate spring, or a new wastegate all up, of anything a hks one. but thats HKS money. with the 440cc injectors you would be limited to the 300kw mark, same as the stock pump i guess. go for 550cc, tomei FPR, and either a HKS wastegate or a 1 bar spring/s for your ones now. then add a decent BOV that wont kill itself above 10psi. there you go, that should pull you up to about 300kw at the fly. thats assuming you have a decent exhaust fitted before all else, whats the point on putting in more if you cant remove of more.

thats an epic cake, a melted stagea mad attempt, but cakes are bitches to make. but i wouldnt be complaining

i dont even know my offsets now, will check it when i pull the rims off. but i will calculate it or check it. also my stagea is AWD waiting time is about 2 weeks since hes doing 19" rims now and next week will be doing 18" then the following week is 17". woop problem is i may need to find some spare rims to just sit my car on for a couple of days while they get built.

wait, just let me get one thing clear, the stock BOV is not atmospheric, but rather flows back to turbo right???? so even if it only holds 7psi or 15psi etc. doesent it mean your air still gets to run at 7/15 psi??? since it just sends it back to its original starting place???? not like atmospheric where that certain pressure is lost and vented to air? kinda hard for me to explain without a diagram. but basically even with a stock BOV you wouldnt have any power loss what so ever since it just circulates the air???

sorry for hijacking your thread, but 2 things, where can i get a set of the black headlights from?????? they look awesome, on the yellow stagea. also, in your picture the white stagea next to it is mine p.s, good luck with your sale

all running on stock???? my mate has a r34gtt but with a aftermarket BOV on it. makes same noise, with the exception of the "pshhhhh". also some r33's ive been in have made same noise. or maybe my sound is a bit different to yours. kinda hard to describe a noise with out a soundclip mine sounds like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggSklxLMzbM but without the pshhhhh

auto and gtr drivetrain???? i thought they only built the gt4's in manual, or do they have same running gear as the s2 stageas do???? also car looks decent, but my mate has a red one too, but a 4 door and the paint is a real big pain to keep perfect, red is a very fadeing colour, leave it in the sun for a bit too long over a couple of months and youll get fading. find a different one imo, also do you guys in brisbane also get hasseled if your rims are too big???

my turbo makes a very high pitched noise comming onto boost, this is normal though, kinda more high pitched than that smexy scene you linked to but does sound normal that your turbo is doing that

yes, but was she hot

for gods sake, offer me 700 for the block and crank take it, i just need the thing gone. anyone???

ah, thx for all the feedback, info and pics. greatly appreciated

oh yeah, ive never really gotten the whole offset thing really, but either way, i still need the spacers to clear my suspension but only on the rear.

hmmm, those gold ones tm7gtr posted up, are close to the same dish as mine, pretty nice, i guess ill go with 235, seems to be a nice stretch. will be getting the cheap crap tyres though, kumho ecstas k31 i think they were, they are very soft and burn rubber really fast. but therefore grip is superb. dont know if the offset will be changed, since its still the same distance from the inner dish as before.

hmmmm, never thought about the satin, may actually invest in that, iva always had matte black, from my pc case to my older cars and car parts. i shall see how much extra that may be.

as stated, im getting my 3 piece enkei RS Evolutions Rebuilt, and the front 2 are getting new outer barrel. color will be full matte black bolts will be gold so on the front i will be sitting 17x9 and the rears will be 17x10 originally the 17x9 were on the rear and 17x8 on the front so front getting an extra 2 inches and popping them straight onto the rear. guards will be getting pulled by about 1-2cm to try and fit in the rims. i will be hoping the rears will be sticking out an inch at least, and front will be nice and flush. currently running 215 45 17's for the 9j rims and still tossing up on what i should run the 10j's on, its either going to be 225's or 235's what would you guys suggest? and all up incl tyres will cost me around the $900 mark p.s these are the real enkei rs's not the fake ones. they will go on my s2 stagea

bump, block is negotiable, pm me some offers

well, don know where your area is, but brand new blocks, at just jap range from 2500-12k 2500 for the normal block, 3k for the N1 block and also 12k or so for the gt500rrr block i have a second hand one for sale if your interested. but im in sydney, and shipping for a block is pretty limited most of the time.

hey all, as advertised im selling the following parts: RB26 crank, block and coil cover. Crank and block are in perfect condition, but will measure tonight for specific measurements. block just needs new bearings. coil cover is sandblasted and ready to be polished or painted. i can clean up the block if preferred, can also paint in matte black enamel at no extra charge. block held 300kw+ and always taken care of, (enigne that is) regularly serviced etc. has a near new water pump, 2000km old still keep it oiled and clean it regularly, no rust can be viewed if interested, located in Penshurst NSW prefer to sell block and crank as one, but can sell seperate. and for gods sake, pick up!!!! i can post, but damn that thing is heavy. block and crank $1500 coil cover $150 (comes with gtr badge on the top) pm me for any details cheers Jean