Bronx

time for a surge tank and 12v mod.

spotted 2 yesty aswell, one goldish looking m35 on bextley rd, near canterbury rd, parked on the street with chromies on it and another white rs4 c34 with greeen p plates on it on king georges rd in beverly hills.

hello, im looking for a rb26 rebuild manual, i have all the service manuals etc, but i dont have a rebuild manual, i need to know all the torque settings etc. i have all the pieces and parts ready to put together, just need the manual. for all the small pits. anyone have a pdf version??? or anyone know where i can get one from??? cheers Jean p.s i know this would be better off in a rebuild thread, but i guess its faster here to get a response plus after i get an answer it can be deleted.

ouch man, sorry to hear. hopefully it will get fixed.

i put my money on a bearing. either crank or wheel bearings.

keep spotting a S1 stage with plates RSFOOR, was once behind me at about 5.30am turning onto m5 at beverly hills

really???? i never knew that. the usual BMW/Honda ones??

ouch!

wow, 2 things i noticed there, they have undercover/unmarked cop bikes..... also, that woman sounded soo shit bored. but that was a damn nice skyline though

woops, sorry i forgot to post time, was a bit later than lunch was about 21.30ish. so just a little later.

spotted a m35 on the way home on princes hwy near sylvania maccas, had plates BDV 30S i think, just to let you know aswell, one of your front lights is out.

count me in, ill come along

do these fit in the NEO rb25det??? i know they are top feed, not like the rb25det from the r33, thats side feed.

i got a hks silent on my s2, and it sounds really nice, no drone, no nothing, only thing i really really miss is the burble i used to get from only having resonators in my system. the muffler is a bit big so it kind of removes of the burble. but i do say its heaps quiet, i tested mine with a db meter a while back and i got 87dB, that was with a 3"cat 200cell, and 3"bellmouth dump. thing is, hks only has the preset tips for the exhaust, so no twin endpot or so. just the big oven pipe also it would be very expensive to get a mandrel bent exhaust made in 3" 304 steel. but then just choose 1 endpot and 1 resonator. sounds blooody sweet!!! p.s if you want a vid and sound clip of the silent system, jut let me know

haha, i read that in some of the manuals from different car manufacturers. pretty weird aye. but they were all 1990's cars. 1991-1997 vw, audi, mercedes. guess couse they were all in germany, different temps etc. dunno.

dont mix oils, very bad idea. can get easily clotted up etc. but like everyone said, the viscosity of the oil when cold is about 20??? times thicker than when it is hot. (i think thats what it is) so once you run your car the oil will circulate and since its not hot, it will take its sweet ass time to go back to the sump where your dipstick sits. if its cold, wait at least 30 minutes before most of it gets back to the sump. if its operating temp, (100-120 degrees) it will only take about 5-10 mins to flow back. but most cars can eat as much as 1L of oil per 1000km. so check it regularly.

yeah, this is a big bitch, you have no idea. im so cut at the person who was supposed to do it. and paying good money for it too. actually the valves have not been removed, they are still connected with everything (springs, clips etc) just the top of it was given to me in pieces. ive used a precise measuring tool for all the buckets and shims, and they all seem to be the exact same size.. normal?

i think they should all be the same, no matter the model, i mean weren't they in the bottom of the rear doors and the bottom of the front doors, and if your car had, the tweeters in the a-pillar. dont buy that stuff from kenwood or pioneer,sony etc, i have bought many of them and none are ever as good as the original ones, reason being they are used with amps mostly, and the stock ones are supposed to just fit straight into your car wiht your basic radio. i run a kenwood deck and have the 2 original front speakers in and 2 kenwood rear speakers, kenwood was $150 for the pair, and they just suck really bad. no bass, terrible treble. but i think most japanese car manufacturers use the same size speakers. i know that the kia rio my mum has has 6.5" speakers with perfect sound, sounds like a sub when bass is all the way up too. not as well as a sub, but the bass is more than i would ever need. i have fit them into my car and they seemed to fit perfectly. just never ever bought a set for myself. since i dont want my shitty $150 speakers to go to waste. like said, kenwood and pioneer etc, will all go well in their own setups so if you buy a pioneer sytem then they will osund good, if you buy kenwood system that will sound good, but dont mix and match. the original ones are manufactured by clarion. see if you can get a decent set to keep the good sound Jean

hey all, some questions about the rb26 head, im in the middle of rebuilding it, but the person who i got it off, didnt put it all back in one piece!!! even though he was supposed to. paid 3k in cash to get the head overhauled, and all i got was a head in pieces and even some broken off bolts in the head!!! now, i just trying to fit all the stuff back together, ive only ever re-built VW enignes, so not sure if its all the same. question 1: cam holders, the little arches holding the cams in place, are labelled I12 I13 etc etc, my guess is it means Intake, so lowest number towards the front and highest towards the back. and the others are named E1 E2 etc etc, meaning exhaust 1 and 2 so on. so same drill? 1 on front and then counting up towards the rear??? question 2: the hydraulic lifters/ tappets, they were all mixed up all over the place, any specific ones for the intake/exhaust??? or basically all the same???? this includes the lifters and little tappets underneath. and that is all i have for now. maybe some questions will come later on if needed, these are just my main concerns. cheers Jean

wait, this car produces 800hp+, but only gets 78kg-m torque? that seems extremely low, unless im misreading that dyno. (which, lets face it, i most possibly am)

just upload it from your computer, make sure its under 2mb though, if that dont work, just put it up on any picture sharing website and insert the http link in between the [/img]. the forums will let you upload a photo, just go inder ADDREPLY button not FASTREPLY, and then you will see a "browse" button under your text box, browse for pic and then just press upload. done

dump pipe i bought maybe 2 months ago if that, put it on and it ran about 2000km, got a new one from a friends and now dont need this one anymore, its a 3" bellmouth dump for the r33/34 rb25det's made of stainless steel. i had it on my s2 stagea with the NEO engine, no problems at all. felt alot more power than with the stock one, especially when high rpms and high boost. also for sale is a r33 pressure plate, its an uprated one from the Korean brand SECO, brand new never used, just has some scuff marks on the paint from being in storage for a while. from the papers i last had the pressure plate was rated up to 350+hp. i bought the pressure plate alone, no other components, cost me 300 new. want to sell dump for 130 and the pressure plate for 130 as well. any questions, just ask me Jean

HAHAHA, that was a great comeback. also i think the r32 gtr driveline is different to the r33/34 one. 33 and 34 are both controlled similar, while with the r32 its just a unplug of the fuse which fully unloads everything in the atessa system, or so i have read on here somewhere. not 100% sure, but read somewhere. hence why you can buy those little torque controllers on ebay so cheap for the r32's and stagea s1's. apparently the s1 had parts from 32 and 33 in it. but dont quote me on it. i remember reading it somewhere a while back when i first got my car. oh and on my s2 stag the plug is green with one yellow striped wire coming out of it, right at the top of the kickpad, it even hangs out a bit.

yeah, will be opting for a nice k-sport racing front brake kit. i prefer being able to get the car to a stop than to high speed

well extractors is anything non original manifold basically, it extracts your gases, tuned length, manifold is just the basic crap you get on your stock car, NA or turbo. well from my view at least. but say you popped a t45 or t66 on there, a top mount, that should kick your lag in to well over 4k rpm.