Bronx

actually, just a quick question, this has been bugging me for a loong time. the so called turbo manifolds and extractors, which would be more efficient at quick spooling???? the manifold or the extractor??? if you think of it theoretically, the spool time depends on how fast your exhaust gases can get to your turbo. say the stock manifold is set up like this: cylinder 1 is a 20cm pipe to turbo, cylinder 2 is a 6cm to turbo, cylinder 3 is also 6cm to turbo and cylinder 4 is 20cm to turbo. that means the shortest exhaust gases will come from cylinder 2 and 3. to travel the 6cm, means short turbo spool or turbo lag. while with a mandrel bent extractor, cylinder 1 will be 25cm, cylinder 2 is 15cm, cylinder 3 is 15cm and cylinder 4 is 25cm. it means it will be able to get the engine to run more freely, but it does not guarantee a faster travel of the gases to the turbo, so higher up you should see a bigger increase in engine power, 15-30hp on a basic extractor. but therefore a bit longer turbo lag from the longer gas flow. gas travels 6cm in the manifold and 15cm in the extractors. while this is not the case for NA cars since they dont need to run a turbo, they would benefit from it alot better. so is this really the case when buying extractors??? would the turbo lag be increased but the overall power gain in the higher rpm???

no, parts are in a different place than the engine is, the engine is at the machine shop and the parts are at the mechanic, im not pushing the sale of the engine to the extent of bugging people, im just posting as i go. pics will come and follow as i get them. im not asking send me your cash and ill give you this when i fancy or its finished building. when it is fully completed, i will be happy to have anyone who wants come to inspect it or laugh at it. im selling this for my mate, its his fault that its all taking its sweet ass time, hes just been bugging me, and hes too fkn lazy to do it himself. if you highly doubt any of the pictures supplied, i can send you a RAW image which will have all the details you need to show you that the pictures are not tampered with, photoshopped or DL from the web anywhere.

agreedwith comment above, but does the commonwhore have a 2.5l turbo and looks even 1/10000th as sexy as a stag?? not quite. oh, and the flashing light means constant 2wd while constant light means error. sometimes i cant get the flashing light to go on, no matter how hard i try, even doing all the steps right, mostly on cold mornings.

if you send me $$$ to come up there first, ill come and deliver it then give me 12k when i give you engine

guess the part number for the turbo is #11500216 thats the most info i could find about them, supposed to be a single 450hp+ turbo, so x2 should do some decent numbers

i feel so stupid, i didnt read the underneath of the upload button max size of picture is 2MB!!! they were originally 10MB each, so had to downscale them. soo stupid. but here are the pics:

i did press the browse, but it doesent work, i select the picture etc, press upload and it says uploading, but when its done, it says no upload file selcted.... so i dont know whats going on. dont know what the turbos are, all i have is model numbers and the pictures of the greddy plates that are on there. i think if you go greddy website you can find the exact specifications on there. numbers and details on the intake housings are as follow: Type: T618Z Serial No: 020917027 Part no:-Blank- MFD. No: 49179-05000 plus it says Trust CO.,LTD. Japan and the usual crap performance by Trust -Greddy the twin dumps connected to them are split dumps, stainless steel by xforce.

yeah, the 2wd setup works for me no dramas, when the light is on constantly. sometimes it starts flashing so i turn it back on, just incase something doesent disengage properly, but otherwise, the rwd unplug method does work. and yeah, mine is manual too

sure, ill post up, no dramas, if you make it work!!!!! i cant get to upload any pictures anymore, everytime i browse for one, and press upload, it says "no file selected for upload" if you can get it fixed ill gladly post you pics. no dramas.

tried to upload a pic, but this site doesent work anymore

haha, this thread is very interesting, everything can be one with the right amount of money and labor, but then again, sometimes you wonder why you would even bother spending 20k on converting a 10k car. i know there are a handful of skyline gt-t's in germany and same goes for the r33 and r34 gtr's. but they cost nearly twice the price of a rhd one. either way, in almost all technically advanced countries you can get your car registered rhd or lhd. here in nsw, you can get them registered, you dont need a sticker though, guess one guy just had that for fun? all in all, you just need the right engineering and compliance plates, do it by the books and you can drive it LHD here

ok, finally i have everything cleared. pistons are CP forged and conrods are full forged and not semi forged SPOOL pistons. will withstand up to 1300hp and 10k rpm. the tomei bottom end was from the original rb26 block, that has been sold.

yeah, its rb26 head and rb30 bottom end. pics of everything will come up when i get home. i will try to find the every part number for everything. there are a couple of receipts flying around, just gotta find them. or it could be my bad that the pistons/ rods were still from the old rb26 bottom end. either way, it has got fully forged internals. just need to get you the pictures and details up. oh and i have forgotten to mention that the head and crank have been nitrated! (if thats what you call it in english) the vw golf turbo engines and race cars get it done to keep the cooling at its best

ok, here are some engine updates, (no pics as of yet) Head Cams: tomei cams Valve springs and retainers: Tomei Head has been highflowed, ported and polished to the max ARP head bolts Metal gasket Injectors: Not 100% sure as of yet, could not find them, but from memory 1000cc SARD injectors Block Exhaust: custom extractors (not sure on what brand) Turbos: Greddy turbos (not sure what model) Pistons: Forged pistons (brand will come soon) either ATTRP or Tomei Conrods: Tomei conrods and the usual bits and pieces here and there, racing bearings, RB30 block and crank etc flywheel and clutch not included!! any more info on anything just ask, while i try to scavenge the rest of the info. no pics as of yet, but will be up as soon as i can get back to my own house. cheers Jean

yeah, when i feel a bit rowdy, some clutch dumping for the wheel spinning is needed.

wow, i tried that, and damn, car pulls a bit harder, but i guess now i will need a new clutch alot sooner

aaaah, this is pretty cool. sounds interesting, may google more

yep^ all from original GTR.

got clutch and flywheel with it, got a hks triple plate clutch, which i will be selling!!! triple plate and traffic is a no go for me. not in a everyday car only gotta look for tail shaft, but wont be hard to source. 180 bucks gets me one.

hey all, just trying to wonder what the awd system of the stage is based on? (s2) so r33 setup is it a mechanical diff or electrical diff? torsen, viscose etc setup??? from what i know and have been told, it stays in rwd until it feels that the rear is exceeding its torque output and to stop it from slipping it will engage the front. or is it just clutch driven??? clutch is disengaged until it feels slippage etc and then presses clutch together to connect the front wheels?? Jean

if im lucky i will be getting a r34 gtr box soon, so i will be replacing that old 5speed box. the 6speed will get a quick overhaul with a bit longer 6th gear ratio. i may also be upgrading to a twin plate exeddy clutch. any updates ill throw on here Jean

i will be getting all details and pictures tomorrow, so if anyone needs any specific info, i will get it tomorrow. just let me know asap!!!

here are some pics of rolling shell and dyno sheet: p.s it was 321kw not 332. my bad

shell ill have to get a price on. most possibly 30k. it was prev registered. but now selling in bits. need cash. i have pics of shell and alot of other things too. i also have dyno sheet of the original engine. 332kw at the wheels. before the rebuild

bump, 12k now, no lower. its very very cheap for this engine. needs to go asap will come with custom ecu and all bits and pieces. will post pics tomorrow. gearbox is sold so no box. but r34 gtr rolling shell also available, has everything except front seats, ecu, motor and box. otherwise all is there. inspection welcome