Bronx

oh and by the way, if you want a 2jz engine, make sure you get the black one: for shits n giggles

well he didnt use the standard ones, he used a forged set from what ive been told, this was for a customer who wanted massive low down torque and use a giant bloody turbo. this was some years ago, and he got about 600kw at the wheels from it. so this was built for performance. very very high performance.

oh and in regards to the patrol pathfinder, etc block head combine, i was a bit off you use the rb30 block, rb26 head and nissan Navara or pathfinder (forgot which one exactly, but a bit of google will surely ifnd it) pistons, conrods and crank. they will make the engine to a 3.2 or 3.4l engine.

well the n1 is a stock block, the 2.6l but like nismo did with the ztune, bore to 2.8l if you want quick spool get some really custom manifolds made, get a lightened flywheel, a balanced or even custom crank and forged internals. if you get your crank balanced to the weight of your rods and pistons, youll see really quick revs. how far down do you want the trubo to hit boost?? starting at about 1500-1800rpm??? if so, get a sequential manifold built. run small turbo and big turbo, small to start at about 1500rpm and get the big to kick in at 3k-4k rpm. if your only looking towards the 500-600hp stick with a rb26, ive seen one on stock block, with bit bigger turbos and forged internals qucikly pull out 340kw atw. actually i have the dyno sheet if your interested in seeing it.

the 2jz can fit into your car, ive seen people do it, but thats to turn it into a RWD car, just to attach a gtr box to a 2jz would be overly complicated. then getting a custom harness made and the ecu etc etc. so why not use a n1 gtr block the 24U?? that thing can withstand just about anything. would be a whole load cheaper than a 2jz conversion. maybe try to get a diff turbo setup, see if you can get it to run in sequential mode, youll see a big increase in that. thats how the TT supra, porsche 959, and partially counting in the VW Golf twincharged engine have soo much performance.

coils and sparks are about 6000km old. this is really upsetting me, the frustrations!!!

open your boot up, and on the top close to where the hinges are, you will see a rubber plug where your wires run out from, one on the left and right, they are kind of rubber plugs. pop them out, and under that if you have a factory connected spoiler there should be 2 screws under there, one right one left and the middle of the spoiler should be glued on with a special rubber glue, kind of like liquid nails, just not as strong.

oh yes, and also to mention, this may be really weird, but at full throttle i can rev all the way through if im not in gear but in neutral. so just parked, and gearstick isnt in gear, i can put foot to floor and no stuttering, just perfect revs and boost. kinda weird??? some other cars i know have had that too

just htinking in regards to the whole rwd wheelspin of the holden, even if you decide to put on traction control, you aint putting out the full 270kw. your traction control will close to null the slippage on the wheels but therefore only give enough kw so the wheels wont be spinning, so at 1500rpm you may get 180kw and at 2500rpm you may get 230kw and at about 3500-400rpm it will give you full use of the 270kw, so it could all be possible. unless we get full dyno results with and a drag slip, we cant depend on a iphone app etc, gps may be good, but its still a mobile phone, not a speed radar. once i get my stupid misfiring or fuel cutting sorted out, i will take it to the dyno and to drags to see how it goes. my car will be a close to stock s2 manual, only upgrade will be a full exhaust system, 3" dump +200cell cat and 3" hks silent exhaust. it will also be tested bypassing the boost solenoid and including the 2 stage boost solenoid. but then again, it will be a c34 series 2 with neo engine and not a m35.

like stated, wanting a front grill, original, i dont like the freeway dolphin one that i have. so id swap or buy a original one. pref with the original badges. also looking for some eyelids, give the car a mean look. pref used, because brand new they seem to cost a bit. pm me or let me know cheers Jean

when i have time, hopefully tomorrow monrning, ill call him and ask him from what car the block was, i remember it was bigger than a rb30, it was a 4wd car made by nissan, i know the engine block was not a RB, could have been P40 or so. will reply also if anyone is interested, hes selling a r34 gtr, with the whole rb26/30 conversion putting out over 500awkw. but thats thread hijacking. ill write back and tell yall what the engine block is

whole car is stock, everything is brand new dont know the exact gap, i think it was .8mm not too sure, only other thing i have is a 3" dump and catback system. its the engine in the s2 stagea, but same ecu etc. actually the above is true, but only at certain times, i can go past those revs perfectly if i only use 3/4 throttle, this only happens when its hot and i use full throttle, if air outside is below 20dC and i use full throttle, it kicks in a bit later, around 5k-6k rpm. but i dont know why it dont happen after 6krpm? after that i can kick it as hard as i want, no misfiring nothing.

or you can run a rb26 head and a Nissan Patrol block. (dont remember which one, but a mate of mine, a nissan tuner told me about it when he was building it) those things have immense power. i think it turns it into a 3.5l or so. but its basically the other option besides a rb30 bottom end. but just the bottom end alone will set you back about $10k Jean

hey, just wondering what kind of fuel cut off the NEO enigne uses? does it stop the fuel pump or does it stop the injectors when overboosting or the so called "fuel cut" if im using the 2 stage solenoid, my engine goes alright till about 4,5k rpm, after that the full boost kicks in and it just makes loud popping noises, and stops accelerating. now if i bypass the 2 stage solenoid by just removing it and connecting the pipes together, full boost kicks in at about 3k rpm and the loud popping noise kicks in there. but as soon as i get to about 5,5-6k rpm i get full boost again and the car just flies till it hits the limiter. now i havent had time to do the trick with grounding the fuel pump continually to supply the full 12v, but apparently that fixes it. so just wondering if the fuel pump stops pumping, the injectors stop or if, like the supra, it stops the spark plugs from firing. what would get around this? im looking at either getting a nistune or buying a power fc. guessing the power fc will remove of it, but will the nistune? cheers Jean

my guess is your knock sensor is broken, your engine doesent need to be knocking, but also sometimes the knock sensor if too loose or too tight, will give incorrect readings. you can test if your knock sensor is working or not, grab a wrench, and when your engine is idle, hit your engine block close to the knock sensor, you should feel your rpm drop or go higher etc. if that doesent work, do the same thing again, but when reving at about 2,5-3k rpm. if nothing happends, you could have a defective knock sensor hopefully that will help Jean

Best place is either a wrecker or someone who is wrecking a car, or on yahoo auctions japan. There is a guy on yahoo auctions whos wrecking a stagea. Also, i think s2 and s1 tails are the same. just some minor interior and the front half were different. Problem with wreckers here, most of them only ever keep a front cut, or ever only import a front cut unless its an accident car.

awwwww, so no self destruct??? that sucks. on another note, does yours have a adjustable spoiler maybe??? or adjustable front lips etc??? these days people make up all kinds of weird words for different things.

^ what he said, ecu is pre configured, and it knows stock torque is ..... much and it will calculate how much of this % in torque is sent there. but this is the only logical assumption from my view, since none of us know the 100% pinpoint, i dont see how its a fail. i doubt the guage would show percentage.. since it clearly shows kg-m, unless thats nissans way of saying %. i think nissan had enough sense to put a "%" symbol on the dial if it was % right???

front torque is calculated in kg-m, it calculates it, s2 turbo has what, 334nm of torque? so when it sends 50% of it to the front, like atessa does, 50% of 334nm is 167nm, so your gauge would go to about 10-20kg-m. makes sense??? atleast thats how the comp SHOULD convert it. no 100% sure though. i think max i have ever hit was 20kg-m, on gravel. seems like a decent explanation?

ah, press it, see what it does, if it makes your car go sidewards, its the drift button, if its red, dont press it, thats usually the self destruct button.

i was at a tuner mate of mine, who's got a red r34gt in, hes just rebuilt the engine, full rb26 with all the goodies, fully forged engine, converted to single turbo, manual 5 speed ( nearly brand new, just rebuilt) with uprated rear diff being 4.3 ratio and a 1.5 or 1way from a r33 gtr custom rebuilt. (this thing can barely turn corners) coilovers, heavy duty clutch, custom exhaust /downpipe/manifold with 100 cell cat, only cut corner on this car is the turbo, one of the ebay nuggets, but otherwise, this cars engine build up is top notch!!! been following it since it got into the shop. its running the stock r32gtr ecu as well, engine top is custom painted, in metallic cherry red with high gloss, like glass and the cam gears are chromed with the clear gear cover. (for a bit of show), now i asked the owner if hes willing to sell, and he said yes hes asking for 30k, he got over 20k in receipts alone!! is the car worth it?? or what would be a decent price??? registered etc any help would be great. Jean

play this game with a g25 and its pure sex. playing prologue with it was pretty good, but i highly doubt this game is going to be a driving simulator. it will be like gt4, just a big database on cars and alot of tuning options. still i will be getting the ultimate collectors edition to hit the shops here, so i gets the little sls car plus i go into a draw to win the real sls. even though no one outside of europe or US have a chance of winning the actual car. mercedes send a sls over here???? get it complied and registered etc??? bitch please.

played it yet??? its actually a good game, but a little bit weird compared to the other games. its very hard to play and get used to. but otherwise its bloody awesome.

ok, i shall ring a couple of couriers, but the middle piece like said is very long, the end pot is short. if its too much, want me to cut it in half and you can get it rewelded??? or just keep it as one long piece?

in regards to your electrical issue, had same thing in a r34 gt, its because of 2 things, the battery wasnt the right size, and the grounding cable was dirty and dindt get a proper grounding to the chassi. replaced both, got a remade grounding cable, (alot thicker than old) and got the right battery suited for the car. sorted it all out. and sorry i dont know where the relay is. should be around the drivers side though, you can follow the ticking the relay does when you turn your blinker on.