Supa Steve

holy shit just had a google and found this http://www.carwash.com/articleprint.asp?print=1&IndexID=4230101 looks like he may have dodged a bullet if he makes a complete recovery.

Today i found out through a friend that Paul was involved in a serious workshop accident and was admitted to John Hunter Hospital last night. He was treated in the intensive care ward overnight and appears to be recovering as he was tranfered to a general ward today. The chemical he was using contained hydrofluric acid which is extremely lethal has affected his hand, arm and shoulder as well as lung damage from inhaling the vapour. Hope all is well and he makes a complete recovery. All thoughts are with him and his family and if i recieve any updates ill post them here.

instal a relay to control the injector power feed triggered from the ECCS relay feed. very common problem when running aftermarket injector control if not set-up correctly.

because you need at least a -10 hose for it to be effective. you are completing an air circuit which is how the engine was designed. vacuum and pressure in different areas assisting the oil to be pushed back to the pan and pick-up. Sending it to the rear of the head the pressure has to travel along the camshafts before entering the cam baffles and out the head. This helps the factory oil drains do their job.

If its the same one i have on my engine then it should solve the issue. 24+1 i think is whats in there, Paul gets them lazer cut locally and they work a treat.

Red R Racing in Newcastle has tested stock conrods with ARP's in a race engine for 3 years and ran over 600hp and 9000rpm so they are well made. They also have an excellent little end bush that can certainly take some treatment. Paul convinced me to spend a little more and get the Nitto rods as they have the little end bush material spot on and are streets ahead of some of the China based rebranded offerings. He also showed me a (insert brand name here) conrod and explained/demonstrated that there is more to a conrod than looks, structure and material used. The cheaper conrod bush was oval with very little use and when measured up against the stock bush in his old race engine was woeful. He also explained that the cheaper rod was basicly ok but by the time you spent the $$ on them to get them up to scratch it was more cost effective to either resize and rebolt stockers or by the more expensive Nitto or Carillo items. The Nitto rods have made around 1000kw in one of Pauls engines and also look the goods. Mahle pistons come highly recommended also.

nsw

My builder charged $2500 plus parts and machine shop labour and considering the quality and result id say that price was cheap.

Im on the Central Coast NSW.

This sump was on the engine i bought to do my twin cam 30/26 engine conversion in my VL. Complete setup ready to bolt on. $800 buyer responsible for freight please pm

yeah Paul at Red R is responsible for the design and fabrication of this pornography. Im currently putting away a few beans each week to get one for the VL soon.

In most instances the machinist works under instruction from engine builder. Machinist generally has no idea of application and therefore has no idea where clearances need to be for every engine. Different brands depending on application can vary quite a few thou just in rb piston selection let alone bearing clearances which even the oil grade being used can influence. The completed package is a combination of knowledge and skill of both engine builder and accuracy of machining and measurement.

i had the top lug machined down on an rb26 bracket and used a non hicas twin cam pump.

past the cat it makes no difference, especially at 4 inches!

call paul direct on 0448822360 they built the cylinder head on the R34 that was recently on the cover of HPI, i believe this is an xspeed car also. Bakes R34 is another Red R special. http://img16.imageshack.us/i/66330418.jpg/ http://img7.imageshack.us/i/76470055.jpg/

doubled up, sorry.

Good to see Nitto getting some support on here. To be honest when my engine builder suggested to use Nitto id never even heard of them so i did some research and found a lot of negativity on here. I trusted Paul's (Red R Racing) experience and judgement on this and upon reading this thread im glad i did. Excellent work Nitto especially Andrew, well done. As Red R doesnt use any rear breather on the head they always recommend Mines style rocker cover baffles, when they are fitted a small dob of ultra grey is applied on the bolt head and smeared across to the inside radius inside ensuring bolt security. All these little tricks are what separates the good builders from the not so good.

Red R Racing charges around $2500 for a 26 rebuild with machine labour around the $2000-$2500 mark including cylinder head (mine was a little dearer as i had a hybrid custom engine built). They have around 25 engines currently in service and with an excellent reliability record. They are responsible for engine in the 1350hp Nitto R34 (dyno comp proven 1070hp at all four), their own 9 second street GTR and many others on here. Their quality of workmanship and attention to finer details is second to none. Ive personally seen engine bearings come out of their race engines on freshen up that still appear brand new with very little moly coating removed so the bearing clearances and oil grade selection for the application is nothing short of exact. They can arrange freight and even manufacture their own export standard sealed delivery crates. Quite a few workshops now outsource their engine work to these guys as they have proven to be one of the best options in this country. Paul is also a very handy fabricator and has recently started manufacturing their own lazer cut and tig welded 9 litre race sumps and lobster back exhaust systems. I had my Nitto 30/26 built there and hasn't missed a beat having built a few engines myself over the years i know what it takes to get things right.

Are you crazy? A properly built and clearanced engine ran on the correct viscosity oil should show no bearing material wiped from the surface. The 1st few hours of an engines life is critical as well as the fact crankshafts and rods do not turn on bearings, they turn on a film of oil. The bearing is used to provide the clearance for the oil. Ive personally seen bearings from RB engines that have done 1000hp+ as well as 10,000klm of hell that could have been put back in the packet and sent back to ACL for a credit.

Although id never recommend this you have this option that may just save the next set of turbo's you bolt to this engine that really in my opinion wont be long off throwing the shells out of it. Run a brush through the turbo oil feed gallery to the main gallery on the filter side or get a piece of mig wire and see if you can feed it across. You could also remove the front oil plug under the water pump/above the oil pump and flush from the turbo feed back to the filter and out the front.

Easy one, dirty build mate. See the iron content, thats your engine hone floating around in your oil. Id also go as far to say the cross block oil feed was partially blocked by bearing material from its previous life (engine that spun bearing) this also crosses with the evidence. Id be keen to see the bearing wear especially the mains close to the centre of the block (3,4,5). The fuel levels are also a concern, does whoever tune this thing want the rings to never bed in properly?

Tomei is the same part as ARP? Who's leg are you trying to pull now? You have a habit of pretending to know what you are talking about but in reality you have no idea. Leave the expert comments to the guys who actually have the expertise. Tomei run a widened step in the shank and use 6 point nuts where ARP run a parallel shank and use 12 point nuts. They also do not share common base material and are formed using different manufacturing process.

It addresses the issue as far as i can see as it helps the factory design to do its job. But yes, dry sump is the ultimate solution if you have plenty of folding stuff parked.

Mate just got my 30/26 in my BT1 built by Red R Racing, highly recommend. They have done quite a few builds for guys on here, check out NYTSKY's and murrayis threads just to name a couple on the go at the moment. They also built Mercury Motorsport's 1071awhp R34, absolute weapon as well as their 9 second street GTR 'twoogle'. email paul at [email protected]

always better results using moly lube guys, here is the correct fastner torque setting list. first column is ARP, second is ARP2000 and third is L-19 http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml rod bolts are 45ft/lbs or 6thou stretch. bolts must be cycled a few times before final torque for best results.